Bacalhau: Which Country Is Known for It?

Portugal is the country most closely associated with bacalhau, the Portuguese name for salted, dried cod. This recipe is bacalhau à Brás, a Lisbon-style dish of flaky cod, crisp potato sticks, soft-set eggs, olives, and parsley; its simple ingredients make a savory, satisfying meal. There are many Portuguese bacalhau recipes and household variations, so this is one well-loved version rather than the only way to prepare it.

Ingredients

1 lb (450 g) boneless, skinless dried salted cod, in pieces no thicker than about 1 inch (2.5 cm), before soaking
1 lb (450 g) russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
4 cups (950 ml) neutral frying oil, such as sunflower or canola oil; use enough to give a small, deep saucepan about 2 inches (5 cm) of oil
2 tbsp (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, about 8 oz (225 g), thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves (about 6 g), finely chopped
4 large eggs (about 200 g without shells), beaten
1/3 cup (50 g) pitted black olives, such as Portuguese-style olives, halved if large
1/4 cup (15 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus a little more for serving if desired
1/4 tsp (1 g) freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
Up to 1/4 tsp (1 g) fine salt, optional; taste before adding because the cod can remain salty

Instructions

Desalt the cod. Put the salted cod in a large bowl and cover it generously with cold water. Refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water every 6 to 8 hours. Keep the bowl cold throughout the soak. The pieces specified here are relatively thin; thicker pieces may need a longer soak, which will increase the total time. After soaking, taste a small flake. It should still taste pleasantly seasoned, not harshly salty. If it is too salty, soak it in fresh cold water for another hour and taste again.
Prepare the potatoes and cod. Drain and rinse the cod. Cut the peeled potatoes into very thin matchsticks, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick, and keep them in cold water while you finish preparing the cod. Put the cod in a saucepan, cover with fresh water, and bring it just to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 6 to 8 minutes, depending on thickness, until the thickest piece reaches the USDA FSIS safe minimum internal temperature for fish of 145°F (63°C), checked with a food thermometer. Lift the cod out, let it cool just enough to handle, then remove any remaining bones and separate it into flakes. Drain the potatoes and dry them very thoroughly with a clean towel; wet potatoes can make hot oil splatter.
Fry the potato sticks. Pour the neutral oil into a deep, heavy saucepan, leaving plenty of space at the top, and heat it over medium heat to 350°F (175°C). If you do not have a thermometer, test with one potato stick: it should bubble steadily when added, without the oil smoking. Fry the potatoes in several small batches for about 4 to 5 minutes per batch, stirring gently once or twice, until pale golden and crisp. Transfer each batch to a paper-towel-lined tray and let the oil return to temperature between batches. Do not crowd the pan, which lowers the oil temperature and leaves the potatoes limp. When finished, turn off the heat and set the oil aside to cool before disposing of it safely.
Soften the onion and warm the cod. Heat the olive oil in a large, wide skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for 7 to 9 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent but not deeply browned. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Stir in the flaked cod and black pepper and cook gently for 2 to 3 minutes so the fish warms and takes on the onion flavor. Taste a small bite before adding any salt.
Bring the ingredients together. Add most of the crisp potato sticks to the skillet, reserving a small handful for the top. Toss carefully so the potatoes are distributed through the cod without crushing them. Lower the heat. Pour in the beaten eggs and stir slowly and continuously for about 2 to 3 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan. Cook until the eggs are just set and the mixture reaches 160°F (71°C), the USDA FSIS safe minimum temperature for an egg dish, checked with a food thermometer. The eggs should look soft and glossy, not dry or browned. Remove the skillet from the heat as soon as they reach temperature; residual heat will continue to cook them slightly.
Finish and serve. Fold in the olives and chopped parsley. Taste and add a little salt only if needed. Scatter the reserved potato sticks and extra parsley over the top and serve promptly, while the potatoes still have some crispness.

Tips

Desalt patiently and taste. Salt cod varies in thickness and saltiness, so water changes and a taste check matter more than assuming every piece is ready at the same time. Keep it refrigerated during soaking, and do not use warm water to hurry the process.
Use a practical substitute if needed. Portuguese batata palha are very thin straw potatoes and may be hard to find. Homemade matchsticks give a fresh, crisp result; packaged shoestring potatoes can save time but are often saltier and may soften faster once mixed in. Add packaged ones at the end and reduce or omit added salt.
Keep the potatoes dry and the oil steady. Drying the cut potatoes well reduces splattering. Frying in small batches helps them crisp; if the oil smokes, take the pan off the heat and let it cool rather than adding potatoes to overheated oil.
Choose the right pan for the eggs. A wide skillet gives the cod and potatoes room to mix, while low heat helps the eggs set gently. Stir continuously and take the pan off the burner promptly at the safe temperature so the final texture stays tender.

Serving Suggestions

Serve bacalhau à Brás hot as a main course, with a simple green salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar to balance the richness of the eggs and potatoes. Sliced tomatoes, lightly dressed greens, or steamed green beans are also good sides. The dish is substantial, so a modest side is usually enough. Put extra olives and parsley on the table for anyone who wants a brighter, more briny finish.

In Portugal, this kind of cod dish fits comfortably into a shared meal, but it also works as a weeknight dinner when the cod has been soaked ahead. If serving guests, fry the potatoes shortly before cooking the eggs; that timing gives the potatoes the best chance of staying crisp. Serve directly from a warmed platter or the skillet, taking care with a hot handle.

Variations

Use fresh cod instead of salted cod: Replace the soaked cod with 1 lb (450 g) fresh boneless cod. Skip the 24-hour soak, season the fish lightly, and cook it until it reaches 145°F (63°C) before flaking. Fresh fish is less concentrated and less salty than bacalhau, so the result will be milder and will not have quite the same characteristic flavor.

Use ready-made straw potatoes: If you find batata palha or another unsalted, thin potato stick, use about 7 oz (200 g) in place of the fresh potatoes and frying oil. Fold most of them in just before the eggs, and reserve some for the top. If they are salted, leave out the optional salt and taste before seasoning.

Adjust the herbs and olives: Parsley is the familiar finish, but a small amount of chopped chives can join it for a gentle onion note. Green olives can stand in for black olives; they make the dish sharper and more assertively briny. Keep additions modest so they do not overwhelm the cod.

Make a softer or firmer egg finish: For a creamier texture, remove the skillet as soon as the mixture reaches 160°F (71°C) and serve immediately. For firmer eggs, continue stirring briefly, while still checking the temperature and avoiding browned, dry curds. Because the egg mixture must reach its safe temperature, do not serve it runny.

Storage and Reheating

Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking, in a shallow airtight container. They keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The potato sticks will soften as they sit, so this dish is at its crispest just after cooking. Do not leave the cooked cod and egg mixture at room temperature for an extended period.

For the best texture, reheat a portion in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat, stirring gently until it is steaming throughout and reaches 165°F (74°C), the USDA FSIS temperature for reheated leftovers. A microwave also works: cover loosely, heat in short intervals, stir between intervals, and check the center with a food thermometer. Add a few fresh potato sticks or parsley after reheating if you have them. Avoid reheating the same portion repeatedly; warm only what you plan to eat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which country is known for bacalhau?
Portugal is the country most widely associated with bacalhau. The word refers to salted cod in Portuguese, and the fish appears in many Portuguese preparations. Bacalhau à Brás is one popular example, but it is not the only Portuguese way to cook it.

What does bacalhau mean?
Bacalhau is the Portuguese word for cod, and in cooking it commonly means salted, dried cod. The preservation process gives the fish a concentrated savory flavor and means it needs soaking before cooking. Once desalted, it can be flaked into dishes such as this one.

How long should I soak salted cod?
For the relatively thin pieces in this recipe, start with 24 hours in cold water in the refrigerator, changing the water every 6 to 8 hours. Thicker pieces can take longer. Taste a small flake after soaking; if it is still unpleasantly salty, return it to fresh cold water and check again after an hour.

Can I make bacalhau à Brás without frying potatoes?
Yes. Use packaged unsalted shoestring potatoes or Portuguese batata palha, adding most of them near the end so they do not turn too soft. Their texture may be lighter or crispier than freshly fried potatoes, and packaged versions can contain salt, so taste the cod mixture before seasoning.

Can I prepare the dish ahead?
You can soak the cod ahead, keeping it covered and refrigerated, and you can slice the onion and parsley in advance. For the best final texture, cook and serve the assembled dish right away. If you need to cook the full dish early, refrigerate it promptly and reheat leftovers to 165°F (74°C); expect the potatoes to soften.

Is bacalhau à Brás very salty?
It should taste savory, not harshly salty. The amount of salt left in the cod depends on the fish and the soak, and olives can add more. Taste the cod after soaking and again before seasoning the skillet; the optional salt in the ingredient list may not be needed at all.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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