Pupusas are thick, griddled corn cakes from El Salvador, usually filled with cheese, beans, or pork; they are not a traditional Colombian dish. This Colombian-inspired version pairs the masa and cheese filling with hogao, Colombia’s gently cooked tomato-and-scallion sauce, for a savory, tender pupusa with a distinctly Colombian flavor.
Ingredients
- 2 cups (240 g) masa harina, preferably labeled for tortillas or pupusas
- 1½ cups (355 ml) warm water, plus up to ¼ cup (60 ml) more if needed
- 1 teaspoon (6 g) fine salt, divided
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) neutral oil, plus 1 teaspoon (5 ml) for the dough and a little more for your hands and griddle
- 2 medium ripe tomatoes, about 10½ oz (300 g), finely chopped
- 4 scallions, about 2 oz (60 g), thinly sliced; use both white and green parts
- 2 garlic cloves (6 g), minced
- ½ teaspoon (1 g) ground cumin
- 4 oz (115 g) queso campesino, finely grated
- 4 oz (115 g) low-moisture mozzarella, finely grated
- ½ teaspoon (1 g) freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Make the hogao. Warm 1 tablespoon (15 ml) oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, until softened but not browned. Stir in the garlic and cumin for 30 seconds, then add the tomatoes and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook gently for 10–12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse and the sauce is thick enough to mound on a spoon. If it still looks watery, give it another minute or two. Spread the hogao on a plate to cool for about 10 minutes; a hot or loose filling can split the dough.
- Mix and rest the masa. Put the masa harina and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Add 1½ cups (355 ml) warm water and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) oil. Stir, then knead with your hands for 2–3 minutes until the dough is smooth and soft, like pliable modeling clay. It should hold together without sticking heavily to your fingers. Cover and rest for 10 minutes so the masa hydrates. If cracks appear when you press a piece flat, knead in extra water 1 tablespoon (15 ml) at a time.
- Prepare the filling. Combine the grated queso campesino and mozzarella with the cooled hogao and black pepper. Taste a small amount and add salt only if needed: queso campesino can vary in saltiness. The mixture should be cohesive rather than runny. If the hogao has released liquid, leave that liquid behind rather than pouring it into the cheese.
- Divide and fill. Divide the masa into 8 equal portions, about 3 oz (85 g) each, and keep them covered. Lightly oil your palms. Roll one portion into a ball, then press it into a cup shape about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across, leaving the middle thicker than the edges. Spoon in about 2 tablespoons (30 ml) filling. Bring the edges over the filling and pinch them closed. Flatten gently between your palms into a round cake about ½ inch (1.3 cm) thick. Smooth any cracks with damp fingers. Repeat with the remaining portions; avoid overfilling, which makes sealing difficult.
- Cook the pupusas. Heat a lightly oiled cast-iron skillet, griddle, or heavy nonstick pan over medium heat. Cook the pupusas in batches without crowding, about 4–5 minutes on the first side and 3–4 minutes on the second. Turn once, using a thin spatula, and lower the heat if the surfaces brown before the centers are hot. They are ready when both sides have golden-brown spots, the dough feels set, and the cheese is melted. Allow about 18–20 minutes for all 8, depending on your pan and batch size. Keep finished pupusas warm on a plate loosely covered with a clean towel, not sealed under a lid where steam can soften their crust.
Tips
- Choose the right corn flour. Masa harina is nixtamalized corn flour, not ordinary cornmeal, polenta, or wheat flour. The latter options will not make the same pliable dough. If the package gives a different water ratio, follow it as a starting point and adjust until the masa is soft and crack-free.
- Use a thick, cool filling. Hogao brings moisture and flavor, but excess liquid is the main reason filled masa breaks. Cook the sauce until concentrated and let it cool before mixing it with the cheese. Keep the filling modest: a heaped tablespoon or two is easier to seal than a packed center.
- Patch small cracks instead of forcing the dough. A little water on your fingertips helps smooth split edges. If the whole ball feels dry, knead in water a spoonful at a time; if it is sticky, work in a small sprinkle of masa harina. A steady medium heat cooks the center without scorching the outside.
- Know your cheese. Queso campesino is a fresh Colombian cheese with a mild, somewhat crumbly texture. It may soften without becoming as stretchy as mozzarella. If it is unavailable, use 8 oz (225 g) low-moisture mozzarella; the filling will be stretchier and less distinctly Colombian in flavor. Avoid very wet fresh mozzarella, which can make the filling leak.
Serving Suggestions
Serve the pupusas hot, while the cheese is soft, with curtido and a spoonful of salsa roja. Curtido is a lightly pickled cabbage slaw often served with Salvadoran pupusas; its tangy crunch cuts through the rich filling. For a Colombian-leaning plate, add extra warm hogao at the table, sliced avocado, or a simple salad of tomato and onion. A side of black or red beans also makes the meal more substantial.
Put the accompaniments in separate bowls rather than pouring sauce over every pupusa in advance. That keeps the griddled surfaces pleasantly browned and lets diners choose how much acidity and sauce they want. A squeeze of lime is an optional bright finish, but it is not needed if the curtido is already tangy. For a casual meal, serve two pupusas per person with slaw and beans; for a larger spread, make them smaller and offer several fillings.
Variations
Cheese-only: Leave out the hogao and use about 1½ tablespoons grated cheese per pupusa. This is the easiest filling to seal and gives the corn flavor more room to come through. A small pinch of cumin can be stirred into the cheese if you still want a savory note.
Beans and cheese: Replace the hogao with ½ cup (120 g) thick refried beans, cooled, and mix with the cheeses. Choose a firm bean mixture, not a loose soup-like one; watery beans can split the masa. You can add a tablespoon of finely chopped scallion for freshness.
More Colombian character: Serve the cheese-filled pupusas with hogao as a topping instead of mixing it into the center. This keeps the filling drier and lets the tomato-scallion sauce be adjusted at the table. Some cooks also like a little chopped cilantro stirred into the cooled sauce, though it changes the clean, gently cooked flavor of classic hogao.
Heat and herbs: Add a finely minced mild chili to the hogao while the tomatoes cook, or serve hot sauce on the side. A little chopped cilantro can be added to the finished filling, but use it sparingly so it does not add too much moisture. These are flexible flavor choices, not claims that there is one definitive Colombian version of a pupusa.
Storage and Reheating
Let cooked pupusas stop steaming, then refrigerate them in a covered container within 2 hours of cooking. They keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Store extra hogao separately if possible, and refrigerate it promptly as well; it is useful for serving with leftovers, but it can soften the pupusas if stored on top of them.
For the best texture, reheat pupusas in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat for about 3–4 minutes per side, turning once, until hot in the center. A covered skillet for the first few minutes can help warm the filling, but uncover it to restore some surface crispness. You can also reheat them in a 350°F (175°C) oven for about 10–15 minutes, turning once. If using a microwave, heat in short bursts until hot; the dough will be softer rather than griddled. Freeze cooled pupusas in a single layer, then transfer them to a freezer-safe bag for up to 2 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator or reheat from frozen over lower heat, allowing extra time for the centers to warm.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are pupusas Colombian?
Pupusas are most closely associated with El Salvador, where they are a well-known traditional food. Colombia has its own many regional corn cakes and arepas, but pupusas are not generally considered a traditional Colombian dish. This recipe combines Salvadoran-style masa and shaping with Colombian hogao and cheese as a clearly labeled flavor variation.
Can I make these without queso campesino?
Yes. Use 8 oz (225 g) low-moisture mozzarella for a mild, stretchy filling. If you want a closer fresh-cheese character, you can use half mozzarella and half a mild, firm fresh cheese that is available locally. Drain any moist cheese well, grate it, and keep the hogao thick.
Why does my dough crack when I flatten it?
The masa is usually too dry or has not had enough time to hydrate. Cover it for the full 10-minute rest, then knead in water 1 tablespoon (15 ml) at a time until a pressed edge stays smooth. Keep unused portions covered while shaping so their surfaces do not dry out.
Can I make pupusas ahead?
You can cook them earlier in the day, cool them, and refrigerate them promptly, then reheat in a skillet before serving. You can also prepare the hogao a day ahead and keep it refrigerated, but bring it to room temperature and make sure it is thick before adding it to the cheese. For the easiest shaping, mix the masa shortly before assembling so it remains pliable.
Can I cook pupusas without oil?
A well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick pan can cook them with very little oil, but a thin film helps prevent sticking and encourages even browning. The dough itself should not be greasy. If a pupusa sticks, give it another minute to set before trying to turn it rather than pulling it away while soft.
What is the difference between masa harina and cornmeal?
Masa harina is made from corn treated with lime and then dried and ground; it absorbs water into a dough that can be shaped around filling. Cornmeal is ground dried corn without that same preparation and does not behave the same way. Look for masa harina in the Latin foods aisle or at a Latin American grocery store, and do not substitute cornmeal cup for cup.
Related
- Colombian Chorizo Recipe: Juicy, Grilled Pork Sausage
- Colombian Salad Recipe: Fresh Avocado, Tomato & Lime
- Colombian Holiday Natilla: Creamy Cinnamon Custard
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