Georgian-style chicken in garlic milk sauce is inspired by shkmeruli, a dish associated with the Shkmeri area of Georgia’s Racha region. Bone-in chicken is browned, then gently cooked with garlic, milk, and cream until the sauce is savory and fragrant; recipes vary, and this stovetop version is designed for a home skillet.
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 lb (1.6 kg) bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces, such as thighs, drumsticks, and breast pieces
- 1 1/2 tsp (9 g) kosher salt, divided; use a little less if using fine table salt
- 1/2 tsp (1 g) freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tsp (2 g) ground coriander
- 1/4 tsp (about 0.5 g) ground blue fenugreek, optional
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola oil
- 2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter
- 10 garlic cloves (about 30 g), finely minced or grated
- 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) whole milk, preferably at room temperature
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream, preferably at room temperature
- 2 tbsp (8 g) chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
Instructions
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Pat the chicken dry thoroughly with paper towels; dry skin browns better and is less likely to steam in the pan. In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, ground coriander, and optional blue fenugreek. Season the chicken on all sides. Let it stand while you mince the garlic and measure the milk and cream, about 10 minutes. Keep raw chicken and its juices away from ready-to-eat ingredients, and wash your hands and work surfaces after handling it.
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Set a large, heavy skillet or sauté pan with a lid over medium heat. Add the oil. When it shimmers, arrange the chicken skin-side down in a single layer, working in batches if needed so the pieces are not crowded. Brown for about 8 minutes on the skin side, then turn and brown the other side for about 5 to 7 minutes. The goal is deep golden color, not fully cooked chicken. Transfer the pieces to a clean plate. If the pan has more than a thin layer of fat, carefully spoon out the excess, leaving about 1 tablespoon behind.
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Reduce the heat to low and add the butter. Once it melts, stir in the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Do not let it turn dark brown, which can make the sauce taste bitter. Slowly pour in the milk and cream while stirring and scrape up the browned bits from the pan. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer; avoid a hard boil, which can cause dairy to separate. This should take about 4 minutes.
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Return the chicken to the pan, skin-side up, and pour in any juices collected on the plate. Spoon a little sauce over the pieces, cover, and cook at a gentle simmer for 25 minutes. Keep the heat low enough that the sauce bubbles softly around the edges rather than boiling vigorously. Turn the pieces once if they are not evenly surrounded by sauce. If the pan looks dry or the simmer becomes too strong, lower the heat; do not add cold liquid unless needed, and then add a small splash of warm milk.
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Check the thickest part of each piece with an instant-read food thermometer, avoiding the bone. USDA FSIS gives poultry a safe minimum internal temperature of 165°F (74°C). If any piece has not reached that temperature, cover the pan and continue cooking in 5-minute increments, checking again. Breast pieces may finish before larger thighs or drumsticks; transfer cooked pieces to a clean plate and return them to the sauce at the end if necessary.
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When all pieces are safely cooked, turn off the heat and leave the chicken in the sauce for 5 minutes before serving. Taste the sauce and adjust the salt if needed. Scatter cilantro over the top. Serve straight from the skillet, with plenty of sauce spooned over each portion.
Tips
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Dry the chicken well and avoid crowding the pan. If the pieces touch or release a lot of moisture, they will steam instead of developing browned skin. Brown in batches and add a little more oil only if the pan becomes dry.
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Use room-temperature dairy and keep the sauce at a quiet simmer. A rolling boil can make milk and cream separate, especially after garlic and chicken juices are added. If the sauce looks slightly grainy, lower the heat and stir gently; it will still be flavorful, even if it is not perfectly smooth.
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Blue fenugreek, called utskho suneli, is a traditional Georgian spice that can be difficult to find outside specialty shops. It is optional here; leaving it out gives a clean garlic-and-coriander flavor. A tiny pinch of ordinary fenugreek can stand in, but it tastes stronger and sweeter, so use less rather than substituting it measure for measure.
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For easier temperature checks, choose chicken pieces that are similar in size. If using a mix of breasts and legs, check every piece individually and remove pieces as they reach 165°F (74°C); relying on the largest piece alone can overcook the smaller ones.
Serving Suggestions
This rich, garlicky sauce is especially good with bread that can soak it up. Serve the chicken with Georgian shoti or another sturdy flatbread if available, or use crusty country bread, warm pita, or a simple loaf. Rice, mashed potatoes, or boiled potatoes are practical alternatives when you want a more substantial plate, though they are not required for the dish.
Add something fresh or acidic alongside the chicken to balance the creamy sauce. A tomato and cucumber salad with herbs, sliced radishes, or lightly dressed greens all work well. A bowl of pickled vegetables can provide a sharper contrast. Keep the side dish simply seasoned so it does not compete with the garlic and coriander, and offer extra chopped cilantro at the table for anyone who wants it.
Variations
For a lighter sauce, replace the heavy cream with an additional 1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk. The result will be thinner and less rich, but still works well for spooning over the chicken. For a thicker, richer version, use 3/4 cup (180 ml) cream and 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) milk. Avoid thickening the sauce with flour unless you specifically want a gravy-like texture; the simple dairy sauce is meant to remain pourable.
You can make the recipe with boneless, skinless thighs, but they will not brown or hold their shape in quite the same way as bone-in pieces. Reduce the covered cooking time and begin checking the internal temperature early, since boneless pieces cook faster. Chicken wings can also be used; arrange them in a roomy pan and check several pieces because their size and cooking time vary. If you do not have ground coriander, omit it rather than adding a large quantity of another spice. A small pinch of paprika adds color but is not essential to the Georgian-inspired flavor.
Storage and Reheating
Refrigerate leftover chicken and sauce within 2 hours of cooking, in a shallow airtight container. It keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The sauce may thicken as it chills, and some separation is possible; stir gently as it warms. For longer storage, freeze portions in a freezer-safe container for up to 2 to 3 months for best quality, then thaw overnight in the refrigerator. The texture of the dairy sauce may be less smooth after freezing, but careful reheating can bring it back together somewhat.
Reheat the chicken gently in a covered saucepan over low heat, adding a splash of milk or water if the sauce is too thick. Stir occasionally and heat until the center of the chicken reaches 165°F (74°C), the USDA FSIS safe temperature for reheated leftovers. You can also reheat a portion in the microwave, covered, stirring the sauce and turning the chicken partway through so it warms evenly. Do not leave cooked chicken at room temperature for more than 2 hours, or 1 hour when the temperature is above 90°F (32°C).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this the same dish as shkmeruli?
This recipe is inspired by shkmeruli, a Georgian chicken dish known for its garlic-rich sauce. There are regional and household variations in how the chicken is browned and whether the sauce uses milk, cream, or another dairy combination. This version uses both milk and cream and cooks the chicken in a covered skillet.
Can I make it without a lid?
A lid helps the chicken cook through gently without requiring a large amount of sauce. If your pan has no lid, cover it tightly with foil. Check the liquid occasionally and lower the heat if it reduces too quickly. The chicken still needs to reach 165°F (74°C) in its thickest part.
Can I use boneless chicken?
Yes. Boneless thighs are the best swap because they are less likely to dry out than boneless breast meat. They need less time in the sauce, so start checking their temperature well before the 25-minute mark. Cook all poultry to 165°F (74°C), measured with a food thermometer.
Why did my garlic sauce separate?
The most common cause is cooking dairy at a vigorous boil. Keep the heat low and let the sauce bubble gently; room-temperature milk and cream also help it warm gradually. If it separates, remove the pan from the heat and stir slowly. It may not become completely smooth again, but it is generally still suitable to serve if handled and cooked safely.
Can I prepare the dish ahead?
You can mince the garlic and measure the spices and dairy earlier in the day, then refrigerate them separately. For the best texture, brown and cook the chicken close to serving time. If you make the full dish ahead, cool and refrigerate it promptly, then reheat gently until the chicken reaches 165°F (74°C). The skin will soften as it sits in the sauce, but the flavor remains enjoyable.
Related
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- Traditional Georgian Khachapuri (Imeruli Cheese Bread)
- Georgian Bread Recipe: Imeruli Khachapuri
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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