Milk Street Georgian Chicken Soup: Chikhirtma Recipe

Georgian chicken soup, known as chikhirtma, is a bright, savory broth thickened with eggs and flour, then finished with vinegar and fresh cilantro. This Milk Street-style version builds flavor from bone-in chicken and gently cooked onions; the result is comforting without being heavy, with a pleasantly tangy finish. Chikhirtma varies from cook to cook, so the balance of herbs, spices, and acidity is easy to adjust.

Ingredients

3 lb bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (1.36 kg)
10 cups cold water (2.4 L)
1½ tsp kosher salt (7 g), plus more to taste
1 bay leaf (about 0.2 g)
1 tsp whole black peppercorns (2 g)
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped (about 300 g)
2 tbsp neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola oil (30 ml)
1 tsp ground coriander (2 g)
2 tbsp all-purpose flour (16 g)
3 large eggs, at room temperature if possible (about 150 g without shells)
2 tbsp white wine vinegar (30 ml), or cider vinegar
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems (about 15 g), plus extra to serve
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper (about 0.5 g), or to taste
Optional: 1 generous pinch saffron threads (about 0.05 g)

Instructions

Start the chicken broth. Put the chicken thighs, cold water, salt, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a large, heavy pot. Bring the water just to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that collects on top. Lower the heat so the liquid barely simmers; a hard boil can make the broth cloudy and the chicken tougher. Partially cover and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, turning the thighs once if they are not fully submerged. Check the thickest part of a thigh with a food thermometer, avoiding the bone. USDA FSIS says poultry must reach a safe minimum internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).
Lift out the chicken and strain the broth. Transfer the cooked thighs to a plate and let them cool just until you can handle them. Strain the broth into a heatproof bowl, discarding the bay leaf and peppercorns, then skim excess fat if you like. When the chicken is cool enough, remove and discard the skin and bones and pull the meat into bite-size pieces. Keep the chicken covered so it does not dry out. If saffron is being used, steep the threads in a small ladleful of hot broth while you prepare the onions.
Cook the onions. Wipe out the pot if needed and set it over medium heat. Add the oil and chopped onions, then cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent but not browned. Browning adds a roasted sweetness that is not the aim here; lower the heat if the edges begin to color. Stir in the ground coriander and cook for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant.
Make a light thickening base. Sprinkle the flour over the onions and stir continuously for 1 minute so it coats them and loses its raw taste. Ladle in about 1 cup of the strained broth, whisking until smooth, then add the remaining broth gradually. Stir in the saffron and its soaking liquid, if using. Bring the soup to a gentle simmer and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. It should look a little fuller-bodied, not as thick as gravy.
Temper the eggs. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and vinegar until smooth. While whisking constantly, slowly pour in about 1½ cups of hot broth, a few tablespoons at a time at first. This gradual warming helps the eggs blend into the soup instead of turning into visible curds. If the broth is bubbling, take the pot off the heat for a minute before tempering. Keep whisking as you add the hot liquid.
Finish the soup gently. Reduce the heat to low. Slowly pour the egg mixture back into the pot while stirring the soup in one direction. Add the shredded chicken and continue stirring until everything is hot and the soup reaches 160°F (71°C), measured in the liquid with a food thermometer; USDA FSIS lists 160°F (71°C) as the safe minimum for egg dishes. Do not let the soup boil after adding the eggs, as boiling can make the texture grainy. Stir in the cilantro and ground black pepper, taste, and add salt or a little more vinegar if needed.
Serve while hot. Ladle into warm bowls and scatter with extra cilantro. The soup is best soon after the eggs are incorporated, when its texture is smooth and the herbs are vivid.

Tips

Keep the simmer gentle. A quiet simmer extracts flavor from the bone-in thighs without agitating the broth. If the surface is roiling, turn down the heat. Skimming the early foam gives the finished soup a cleaner appearance, though a little natural cloudiness is fine.
Temper slowly and stir steadily. The egg mixture needs to warm gradually before it goes into the pot. Pouring it in all at once, or adding it to vigorously boiling broth, can leave strands of cooked egg instead of a silky body. If a few tiny flecks appear, the soup is still usable; avoid blending it, which can make the chicken stringy.
Adjust the vinegar at the end. Vinegar brands differ in sharpness, and the acidity should brighten rather than dominate. Start with the listed amount, taste after the cilantro is added, then add more by the teaspoon. Cider vinegar works in place of white wine vinegar but gives the broth a slightly fruitier flavor.
Saffron is optional. Some versions use it for a floral aroma and golden hue; it can be expensive or difficult to find. Leave it out for a clean, savory soup, or use a small pinch of turmeric for color. Turmeric is not a flavor match and will make the soup taste earthier.

Serving Suggestions

Serve chikhirtma as a first course or as a light main meal in warmed bowls. Crusty bread is useful for catching the broth, while a simple salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and herbs makes a fresh accompaniment. For a more substantial table, offer boiled potatoes or plain rice on the side rather than adding them to the pot; keeping the soup uncluttered lets the tangy egg broth remain the focus. Set extra chopped cilantro and a small dish of vinegar on the table so diners can season their own bowls.

Variations

Recipes for chikhirtma differ in how much flour they use, whether they include whole eggs or yolks, and which herbs go into the pot. For a richer version, replace the three whole eggs with four egg yolks; the soup will be more velvety, though you should still heat it carefully and check that the egg mixture reaches 160°F (71°C). For a lighter, less thick soup, reduce the flour to 1 tablespoon (8 g), keeping the same method. Parsley can replace some or all of the cilantro if its flavor is too strong for your table, but the result will be less distinctly herbal. You can also add ½ teaspoon ground coriander instead of 1 teaspoon for a quieter spice note. These are useful adaptations, not claims that one household version is the only correct one.

Storage and Reheating

Cool leftovers promptly and refrigerate them within 2 hours, in shallow covered containers. The soup keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. Because egg-thickened broth can separate or become grainy after freezing and thawing, freezing the finished soup is not ideal. If you want to prepare it ahead, refrigerate the strained broth and cooked chicken separately, then make the onion-and-egg finish shortly before serving. The broth and chicken can be frozen separately for up to about 3 months for best quality; thaw them in the refrigerator before finishing the soup.

Reheat refrigerated soup in a saucepan over low to medium-low heat, stirring often and avoiding a boil. For food safety, USDA FSIS recommends reheating leftovers to 165°F (74°C); check the center of the soup with a thermometer. The texture may be less silky after reheating, but gentle heat and frequent stirring help. Reheat only the amount you plan to eat, rather than warming and cooling the full batch repeatedly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Georgian chicken soup called?
It is commonly called chikhirtma, a Georgian chicken soup often thickened with eggs and flour and sharpened with vinegar. Ingredients and proportions vary among recipes and households; cilantro, onion, and a clear chicken broth are common features.

Can I make chikhirtma with boneless chicken?
Yes. Boneless thighs can work, but they give the broth less depth than bone-in pieces. Simmer them only until they reach 165°F (74°C), which may take less time, then use good-quality chicken broth to make up for some of the flavor and liquid. If using store-bought broth, taste before adding salt because it may already be seasoned.

Why did my egg mixture curdle?
The broth was probably too hot, the eggs were added too quickly, or the finished soup boiled. Temper the eggs with hot broth gradually, keep the pot at low heat, and stir continuously as you pour them in. A thermometer helps: bring the soup to 160°F (71°C) for egg safety without letting it boil.

Can I make this soup without flour?
You can omit the flour, but the broth will be thinner and less creamy. The eggs still provide some body when properly tempered. If you prefer a little more thickness without flour, use four egg yolks in place of the three whole eggs, then follow the same gradual tempering and temperature-checking steps.

Can I prepare the soup a day ahead?
Yes. Cook and strain the broth, remove the chicken from the bones, and refrigerate them separately within 2 hours. The next day, make the onion base, combine it with the broth, and finish with the tempered eggs, chicken, and herbs. This approach gives a fresher texture than reheating soup that has already been thickened with eggs.

What can I use instead of cilantro?
Flat-leaf parsley is the easiest substitute, used in the same amount, though it makes the soup milder and less characteristic. You could also use half parsley and half cilantro to ease into the flavor. Avoid dried herbs as a direct replacement for the final fresh herb addition; they do not provide the same bright finish.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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