Spas is a traditional Armenian yogurt soup made with tender wheat, a gently thickened yogurt broth, and fresh herbs. This version balances the yogurt’s tang with buttery onion and mint, making a satisfying soup that can be served warm or chilled; family and regional recipes vary in their grains, herbs, and seasonings.
Ingredients
- ½ cup (90 g) pearled wheat berries, also called dzavar; hulled wheat berries work, but may take longer to cook
- 3 cups (710 ml) water, for cooking the wheat
- 4 cups (960 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, preferably unsweetened and at room temperature
- 1 large egg (about 50 g)
- 2 tablespoons (16 g) all-purpose flour
- 4 cups (950 ml) cold water, for the soup
- 1 teaspoon (6 g) fine salt, plus more to taste
- 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
- ½ small yellow onion (about 55 g), finely chopped
- ⅓ cup (15 g) chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley
- 2 tablespoons (6 g) chopped fresh mint, or 1 teaspoon (1 g) dried mint
- ¼ teaspoon (0.5 g) freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
Instructions
-
Rinse and cook the wheat. Rinse the pearled wheat berries under cool water and place them in a saucepan with 3 cups (710 ml) water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered until the grains are tender but still hold their shape, about 35–40 minutes. Stir occasionally and add a splash of water if the pan becomes dry before the wheat is ready. Drain any excess water and set the wheat aside. Hulled wheat berries can need substantially longer, so follow the package timing and cook until tender.
-
Make a smooth yogurt base. While the wheat cooks, whisk the yogurt, egg, and flour in a large, heavy-bottomed pot until no streaks of flour or egg remain. Whisk in the 4 cups (950 ml) cold water gradually, then add the salt. Starting with room-temperature yogurt and cold water helps the mixture warm evenly; a smooth base and steady stirring help prevent curdling.
-
Warm the soup gently. Set the pot over medium-low heat and stir continuously, scraping along the bottom and around the sides. Let the mixture warm gradually until it is steaming and begins to thicken slightly, about 10–12 minutes. Do not walk away or let it reach a rolling boil. Because this soup contains egg, continue heating and stirring until a food thermometer reads 160°F (71°C), the USDA FSIS safe minimum temperature for egg dishes.
-
Add the wheat. Stir the cooked wheat berries into the hot yogurt mixture. Keep the heat low and stir for another 2–3 minutes so the grains heat through and their starch contributes a little body to the broth. If the soup looks thicker than you like, stir in hot water a few tablespoons at a time. It should be creamy and spoonable, not as thick as porridge.
-
Cook the onion in butter. As the soup warms, melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook, stirring, for about 4–5 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned. Stir the butter and onion into the soup. If preparing the onion in advance, keep the heat gentle when you add it so the dairy mixture does not boil.
-
Finish and season. Stir in the cilantro or parsley, mint, and black pepper. Taste and add more salt or pepper as needed. Take the pot off the heat once the herbs are fragrant. Serve warm, or cool it promptly for a chilled serving; the soup thickens as it stands, so loosen it with a little water before serving if necessary.
Tips
- Choose the right wheat. Pearled wheat berries are convenient because some of the bran has been removed, which helps them cook in about 35–40 minutes. Traditional dzavar may be sold as hulled wheat or cracked wheat, and its cooking time and texture vary. Check the package, simmer until tender, and drain it before adding it to the soup. Fine bulgur is not a one-to-one textural match; if you use it, cook it separately according to its package directions and expect a softer, less chewy bowl.
- Keep the yogurt mixture moving. Stir often, including across the base of the pot, as the soup heats. High heat, a sudden temperature change, or leaving the pot unstirred can make the yogurt separate or scorch. A heavy saucepan and a moderate burner make temperature control easier.
- Use plain yogurt, not sweetened or flavored yogurt. Whole-milk yogurt gives the soup a round, creamy texture. If using lower-fat yogurt, the soup may be thinner and more prone to separating, so keep the heat especially low. Greek yogurt is thicker and tangier; whisk it very thoroughly with extra water until it resembles pourable yogurt before heating.
- Adjust thickness after cooking. Wheat continues to absorb liquid as the soup rests and chills. Thin it with a small amount of hot water when serving warm, or cold water when serving chilled, then taste again for salt. Avoid adding a large amount all at once, since you can always loosen the soup further.
Serving Suggestions
Serve spas in bowls as a light main course or as the first course of a larger meal. A little extra chopped mint, cilantro, or parsley makes a fresh garnish; a small pat of butter stirred into each warm bowl adds richness. Keep the seasoning simple so the tart yogurt and fragrant herbs remain easy to taste.
For a fuller table, pair the soup with lavash or another flatbread, a crisp cucumber-and-tomato salad, or roasted vegetables. Bread is useful for a warm serving, while a chilled bowl pairs well with fresh herbs and a simple salad. If offering the soup cold, chill it until thoroughly cold and stir it before ladling, since the wheat can settle and the broth can thicken in the refrigerator.
Variations
Spas is made in different ways, so the ingredients can reflect what is available and the texture you prefer. Cilantro, parsley, and mint are all useful herbs, but you can choose one or combine them. Dried mint is a practical alternative to fresh; use a smaller amount because its flavor is concentrated. For a more herb-forward soup, increase the fresh herbs modestly and add them at the end rather than simmering them for a long time.
Some versions use cracked wheat or another grain instead of whole wheat berries. Cracked wheat cooks more quickly and gives a softer, more integrated texture; add it only after cooking it according to its package directions. You can also use cooked rice in place of wheat for a different, gentler grain texture, though it will not have the characteristic chew of dzavar. Keep the amount close to the recipe’s cooked wheat quantity and add it near the end so it does not become mushy.
For a sharper, lighter broth, replace up to 1 cup (240 ml) of the water with additional plain yogurt, whisking it in thoroughly before heating. The result will be tangier and richer, so adjust salt gradually. For a dairy-free adaptation, unsweetened plain plant-based yogurt can be tried, but products vary widely in acidity and heat stability; the soup may taste different and can separate more easily. Heat it very gently and do not expect precisely the same flavor or texture.
Storage and Reheating
Let the soup stop steaming, then transfer it to shallow airtight containers and refrigerate within 2 hours of cooking. Keep it refrigerated for 3–4 days. The wheat will absorb broth as it sits, so the chilled leftovers may look much thicker than the freshly cooked soup; this is normal and can be corrected with a little water during reheating.
Reheat only the portion you plan to eat in a saucepan over low to medium-low heat, whisking or stirring frequently so the bottom does not catch. Add water as needed and heat leftovers to 165°F (74°C), checking with a food thermometer. Avoid a hard boil, which can make the yogurt separate even when the soup is stirred. Refrigerate any remaining portion promptly rather than leaving it at room temperature.
Freezing is possible, but the yogurt broth may turn grainy or separate after thawing, and the wheat can become softer. For the best texture, refrigerate and eat the soup within the recommended period. If you do freeze it, use a freezer-safe container, thaw it in the refrigerator, and reheat it gently while stirring; the texture may not return completely to its original smoothness.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does spas mean, and where is it from?
Spas is the name of an Armenian yogurt soup commonly made with wheat and herbs. Recipes differ from household to household and region to region, including the choice of grain, herbs, and whether an egg or flour is used to help stabilize and thicken the broth. This recipe is one practical version, not a claim that there is only one correct preparation.
Can I make spas without wheat berries?
Yes. Cooked cracked wheat, bulgur, or rice can stand in, though each changes the texture. Use the substitute cooked and drained, and stir it in near the end. Whole wheat berries give the soup a pleasantly chewy bite, while bulgur and rice make it softer. If you use a quick-cooking grain, do not simmer it in the yogurt base for a long time.
Why did my yogurt soup curdle?
Yogurt can separate when it is heated too quickly, boiled, or left unstirred against a hot pan. Whisk the yogurt with the egg and flour until smooth, begin with cold water, warm the pot gradually, and stir continuously as it heats. If it has only separated slightly, whisking gently off the heat may improve its appearance, but the texture may not become perfectly smooth again.
Can I serve spas cold?
Yes. Spas can be served chilled as well as warm. Cool it promptly, refrigerate it, and stir it well before serving because the wheat settles and absorbs liquid as the soup rests. Add a little cold water if it has become too thick, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep it refrigerated until serving and return leftovers to the refrigerator within 2 hours.
Can I make the soup ahead?
Yes. Cook the wheat and soup a day ahead, cool and refrigerate them promptly, then reheat gently before serving. The finished soup will thicken overnight, so plan to add water while reheating and check the seasoning again. For the freshest herb flavor, you can hold back a little chopped mint or cilantro and stir it in just before serving.
Related
- Portuguese Kale Soup with Linguica, Potatoes and Beans
- Portuguese Lamb Stew with Red Wine, Potatoes, and Herbs
- Portuguese Linguica and Cabbage Soup, Made Simple
More recipes to cook
Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
Spotted an error? Tell us and we will correct it (corrections policy).