Swedish Pea Soup and Pancakes for Thursday Supper

Swedish pea soup and pancakes, or ärtsoppa med pannkakor, is a traditional Thursday meal of yellow peas simmered with pork and herbs, followed by thin, buttery pancakes. The savory soup and tender pancakes make a satisfying two-course supper, with regional and family versions varying in their choice of pork and seasoning.

Ingredients

1 lb (450 g) dried whole yellow peas
8 cups (1.9 L) cold water, for soaking the peas
8 cups (1.9 L) fresh water, for cooking the soup
12 oz (340 g) salted pork, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces; see the tip for using a smoked ham hock
1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz/170 g), peeled and left whole
2 whole cloves
1 teaspoon dried thyme (1 g)
1 teaspoon dried marjoram (1 g), plus ¼ teaspoon (0.25 g) for finishing if desired
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (0.5 g)
Up to 1 teaspoon fine salt (5 g), added to taste after cooking
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
3 cups (720 ml) whole milk
3 large eggs (about 150 g without shells)
3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the pan
¼ teaspoon fine salt (1.5 g), for the pancake batter
1 tablespoon (12 g) granulated sugar, optional, for the pancake batter
½ cup (160 g) lingonberry preserves, for serving

Instructions

Soak the peas. Pick through the peas and discard any stones or shriveled peas. Rinse them under cold water, put them in a large bowl, and cover with the 8 cups (1.9 L) soaking water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. The peas will swell, so use a bowl with plenty of room. Drain and rinse them before cooking; the soaking water is not used in the soup.
Start the soup. Put the drained peas, 8 cups (1.9 L) fresh water, salted pork, whole onion, cloves, thyme, marjoram, and black pepper in a large, heavy pot. Bring the liquid just to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that rises. Lower the heat until the soup simmers gently, partially cover the pot, and cook for 1 hour 35 minutes. Stir every 20 minutes or so, scraping the bottom so the peas do not catch. Add a little hot water if the soup becomes thicker than you like before the peas are tender.
Check the pork and finish the soup. The peas should be soft and beginning to break down, while the pork should be tender enough to cut with a fork. Check the thickest meaty part of the pork with a food thermometer, avoiding the bone if there is one: USDA FSIS gives 145°F (63°C) with a 3-minute rest as the safe minimum for whole cuts of pork. This long simmer should take the pork beyond that minimum and make it tender. Remove the onion and cloves. If you used a hock, lift it out, remove and discard the skin and bone, and return the meat to the pot in bite-size pieces. Taste before adding salt because salted pork can season the soup substantially. Stir in salt as needed and, if you like, the extra marjoram.
Mix the pancake batter. While the soup simmers, whisk the flour and salt in a bowl. In a second bowl, whisk the milk and eggs until combined. Gradually whisk the milk mixture into the flour to make a smooth, pourable batter, then whisk in the melted butter and optional sugar. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes. Resting gives the flour time to absorb the liquid and helps the pancakes cook evenly. If a few small lumps remain, whisk briefly again before cooking.
Cook the pancakes. Heat a lightly buttered 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) skillet or crêpe pan over medium heat. Pour in about ¼ cup (60 ml) batter and immediately tilt the pan so the batter spreads into a thin layer. Cook until the edges look dry and the underside is lightly golden, about 1 minute; flip and cook the second side for 30 to 45 seconds. Adjust the heat if the first pancake browns before its center sets. USDA FSIS lists 160°F (71°C) as the safe minimum for egg dishes: check the center of a folded, thicker pancake with a food thermometer. Stack cooked pancakes on a plate and cover loosely with foil while you finish the batter. Allow about 30 minutes to cook the full batch.
Serve the two courses. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and serve it first. Bring the pancakes to the table afterward, warm or at room temperature, with lingonberry preserves. If you prefer to serve everything together, put the pancakes on the table alongside the soup rather than in the soup.

Tips

Soak whole peas for dependable cooking. Whole dried peas are traditional, and soaking overnight shortens their simmer and helps them cook more evenly. If your peas are still firm after 1 hour 35 minutes, keep simmering and check every 10 to 15 minutes; age and storage conditions affect cooking time.
Balance salt at the end. Salted pork varies in saltiness, so the soup may need little or no extra salt. If it tastes too salty, add a little hot water and let the soup simmer briefly; adding salt before the peas soften can also make it harder to judge the final seasoning.
Use a smoked ham hock if salted pork is hard to find. A 1-pound (450 g) smoked hock gives the broth a deeper, smokier flavor. Simmer it whole, then remove the skin and bone and shred the meat back into the soup. Because hocks differ in saltiness, taste before seasoning.
Keep the pancake batter pourable. Flour absorbs liquid as the batter rests. If it becomes too thick to swirl into a thin layer, whisk in milk 1 tablespoon (15 ml) at a time. Butter the pan lightly between pancakes, not heavily; excess butter can make the edges fry unevenly.

Serving Suggestions

For the classic order, serve a generous bowl of pea soup as the main savory course, then bring out the pancakes with lingonberry preserves. Lingonberries have a tart, bright flavor that contrasts with the mellow peas and rich pork; cranberry preserves are a practical substitute, though they are usually sweeter and less tart. A small pat of butter on a warm pancake is welcome, but the preserves are enough on their own.

Rye crispbread or dark rye bread can accompany the soup, especially if you want something to scoop up the thick broth. Keep other sides simple: sliced cucumber or a lightly dressed green salad adds freshness without turning the traditional two-course meal into a crowded spread. For a more filling supper, offer extra pancakes and preserves rather than enlarging the soup portion.

Variations

Families and regions season ärtsoppa differently. Some cooks leave out the thyme, add more marjoram, or include a small piece of carrot with the onion. For a smoother, thicker bowl, mash a few ladlefuls of peas against the side of the pot and stir them back in. For a looser soup, add hot water a little at a time until it reaches your preferred consistency.

For a less smoky soup, use fresh salted pork as listed or substitute 12 oz (340 g) unsmoked pork shoulder. If salted pork is unavailable, unsalted pork shoulder works, but the broth will be milder; season gradually and taste at the end. A vegetarian version can omit the pork and use vegetable broth for some or all of the cooking liquid. It will not have the same savory, pork-based character, so taste carefully and consider adding a little extra marjoram and black pepper.

The pancakes can be served plain, with a little sugar in the batter, or with other fruit preserves if lingonberries are unavailable. Keep the batter thin and cook each pancake in a small amount of butter; these are Swedish-style thin pancakes, not thick American breakfast pancakes. For a smaller batch, halve the pancake ingredients, though the soup recipe is easiest to make as written and freeze in portions.

Storage and Reheating

Refrigerate the soup and pancakes within 2 hours of cooking. Store them separately in airtight containers; both keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The soup thickens as it chills, so loosen it with a splash of water when reheating. Warm it on the stovetop over medium-low heat, stirring often, or microwave it in a covered, microwave-safe bowl, stirring partway through. Reheat leftovers to 165°F (74°C), checking the soup with a food thermometer.

Reheat pancakes in a skillet over low heat, turning once, or microwave a short stack until hot. For longer storage, freeze cooled soup in meal-size airtight containers for up to 3 months for best quality. Freeze pancakes in a stack with parchment between them, then seal in a freezer-safe bag; they are best within 2 months. Thaw either in the refrigerator before reheating, or reheat the soup from frozen over low heat, stirring as it loosens. Do not leave cooked food at room temperature for extended storage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use split yellow peas instead of whole peas?
Yes. Split yellow peas do not need an overnight soak, though rinsing them is still useful. They often cook faster and break down more readily, so begin checking after about 45 minutes of simmering and add water if the soup gets too thick. The result will be softer and less distinct than soup made with whole peas.

Do I have to soak the peas overnight?
For this recipe’s whole dried peas, the overnight soak is the most reliable approach. If you forgot, you can simmer the rinsed peas longer, but the cooking time may be less predictable and the pork may become tender before the peas do. Check the pot periodically and add hot water as needed. Do not use the soaking water in the finished soup.

Why is pea soup traditionally served with pancakes?
Ärtsoppa med pannkakor is a well-established Swedish Thursday meal, with soup followed by pancakes as a sweet course. The custom is associated with Swedish household and institutional meal traditions, though recipes and serving habits differ. The pancakes are served separately with preserves rather than mixed into the soup.

Can I make the soup a day ahead?
Yes. The soup can be cooked, cooled, and refrigerated, then reheated the next day; its flavor remains pleasant and the peas may thicken it further. Add water while reheating if necessary and bring the soup to 165°F (74°C). Pancakes can also be made ahead and refrigerated, but they are easiest to serve after a gentle skillet or microwave reheat.

What can I use instead of lingonberry preserves?
Cranberry preserves are the closest easy-to-find alternative, particularly a tart variety. Red currant jelly or raspberry jam also works, although each changes the sweetness and flavor. Put the preserves on the table so everyone can choose how much to add to a pancake.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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