Soup Joumou Recipe: Haitian Pumpkin Soup

Soup joumou is a Haitian squash soup made with tender beef, vegetables, and pasta in a savory, gently seasoned broth. It is traditionally served on New Year’s Day, though family recipes vary; blending some of the squash into the broth gives this version its creamy body without cream.

Ingredients

For the epis: 1 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves (30 g)
4 scallions, roughly chopped (60 g)
1/2 medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped (75 g)
4 garlic cloves, peeled (12 g)
1/4 medium onion, chopped (40 g)
1/4 cup water (60 ml)
2 tablespoons neutral oil (30 ml)
For the soup: 1 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes (680 g)
1/2 cup prepared epis (120 ml)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (30 ml)
1 tablespoon white vinegar (15 ml)
1 teaspoon kosher salt for the marinade (5 g), plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper for the marinade (1 g), plus more to taste
2 tablespoons neutral oil for browning (30 ml)
1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 150 g)
1 medium leek, white and pale green parts, sliced and rinsed (about 150 g)
2 celery ribs, sliced (about 100 g)
10 cups low-sodium beef broth (2.4 L)
2 pounds peeled, seeded squash, cut into 1-inch cubes (900 g); giraumon is traditional, while butternut or kabocha squash is a practical substitute
4 cups water for boiling the squash (950 ml)
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 340 g)
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced (about 200 g)
1/2 small green cabbage, cored and cut into bite-size pieces (about 350 g)
1 cup trimmed green beans, cut into 1-inch lengths (125 g)
1 cup elbow macaroni or other small pasta (about 100 g)
2 fresh thyme sprigs (about 2 g)
1 dried bay leaf (about 0.2 g)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, optional, for a rounder finish (14 g)

Instructions

Make the epis. Put the parsley, scallions, bell pepper, garlic, chopped onion, water, and 2 tablespoons oil in a blender or food processor. Blend, scraping down the sides as needed, until the mixture is finely chopped and spoonable. It does not need to be perfectly smooth. Measure out 1/2 cup for the soup; refrigerate or freeze any extra epis for another meal.
Season and marinate the beef. In a bowl, toss the beef with the 1/2 cup epis, lime juice, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Keep the meat chilled during this wait, and use the time to prepare and measure the remaining vegetables and squash.
Brown the beef. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Lift the beef from the marinade, letting excess drip back into the bowl, and brown it in batches for about 10 to 12 minutes total. Avoid crowding the pot; crowded meat steams instead of browning. Transfer the browned beef to a plate. Keep the marinade for the soup.
Start the broth and braise. Add the diced onion, leek, and celery to the pot. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring and scraping up browned bits. Stir in the reserved marinade, beef broth, thyme, bay leaf, and beef. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover partially, and maintain a gentle simmer for 75 minutes. Stir occasionally and add a little water if the meat is not covered by liquid. Check a thick beef cube with a food thermometer: USDA FSIS guidance sets 145°F (63°C) with a 3-minute rest as the safe minimum for whole cuts of beef; continue braising until the cubes are also fork-tender.
Cook and puree the squash while the beef simmers. Put the squash cubes and 4 cups water in a separate saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 18 to 22 minutes, until a fork slides into the largest piece easily. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the squash to a blender. Add about 1 cup of its cooking liquid and blend carefully until smooth, working in batches if necessary. Set aside. Keep extra squash liquid in case you want to thin the finished soup.
Add the squash and firm vegetables. After the beef has simmered for 75 minutes, stir the squash puree into the soup. Add the potatoes, carrots, cabbage, and green beans. Simmer uncovered for about 15 minutes, stirring now and then so the thicker squash mixture does not stick to the bottom. The beef should be tender and the vegetables should be close to cooked through.
Finish with pasta. Stir in the macaroni and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, or until it is just tender. Remove the thyme stems and bay leaf. Stir in the optional butter, then taste and adjust with salt and pepper. If the soup is thicker than you like, loosen it with a splash of hot water or reserved squash liquid. Serve hot.

Tips

Use the right squash texture. Giraumon, a traditional Haitian squash, may be difficult to find. Butternut is widely available and gives a sweet, smooth puree; kabocha is denser and a little less sweet. Either works well. Avoid adding the squash in large chunks without pureeing it if you want the characteristic thick, golden broth.
Keep the simmer gentle. A hard boil can make the beef tough and break the vegetables apart. Once the broth comes to a boil, lower the heat until it bubbles softly. Beef chuck can take longer than 75 minutes to become tender, depending on the size of the cubes, so give it extra time rather than rushing it.
Do not overcrowd the pot when browning. Brown the beef in two batches if needed. Browning adds savory depth to the broth; it is fine if the meat is not cooked through at this point because it will braise afterward.
Manage the pasta for leftovers. Pasta continues to absorb broth as the soup sits. If you expect to have leftovers, cook the macaroni separately and add it to individual bowls, or keep some extra broth nearby for loosening reheated portions.

Serving Suggestions

Serve soup joumou in deep bowls while it is hot, making sure each portion gets beef, vegetables, pasta, and plenty of the squash-rich broth. It is substantial enough to serve as a meal on its own. Haitian bread or another crusty loaf is useful for dipping, and a simple green salad can balance the soup if you are setting out a larger meal.

At a New Year’s Day table, soup joumou is often the centerpiece rather than a small first course. Put lime wedges and a small dish of hot sauce on the table so everyone can adjust the brightness and heat to taste. Add hot sauce gradually: the soup’s epis, garlic, and herbs already provide plenty of flavor, and a little extra heat can quickly take over.

Variations

Make it without beef: Leave out the beef and use vegetable broth. For a more filling bowl, add an extra potato or a cup of cooked white beans near the end. The result will not have the same richness as a beef version, so season the broth carefully and consider adding a little more epis.

Use a different cut: Beef shank or stew meat can work in place of chuck, but pieces with more connective tissue may need a longer simmer. Keep the cubes fairly even and judge doneness by tenderness, not just the clock. If using boneless beef, trim away excess hard fat but leave some marbling for flavor.

Adjust the vegetables: Some cooks include turnip, parsnip, or more cabbage; others keep the vegetable mix simpler. Use similar total quantities and cut the pieces evenly so they cook at about the same rate. Add quick-cooking vegetables later, and avoid loading the pot with so much produce that the broth becomes crowded and difficult to stir.

Change the pasta: Small shells, ditalini, or broken spaghetti can stand in for elbow macaroni. Choose a shape that fits easily on a spoon and check it early because different pasta shapes cook at different speeds. For a gluten-free variation, omit the pasta or use a gluten-free small pasta, adding it according to its package timing.

Storage and Reheating

Cool the soup promptly and refrigerate it within 2 hours of cooking. Store it in a covered, shallow container so it chills evenly, and keep it refrigerated for 3 to 4 days. The pasta will soften and absorb broth over time, so the soup may be thicker the next day; stir in a little water or broth as you reheat it.

Reheat only the portion you plan to eat, on the stovetop over medium heat or in the microwave, stirring occasionally so it heats evenly. Leftovers should reach 165°F (74°C), checked with a food thermometer, before serving. If the beef or vegetables seem firm after chilling, simmer gently until hot throughout rather than using a rapid boil. For longer storage, freeze the soup in airtight freezer-safe containers for up to 3 months for best quality. Thaw in the refrigerator, then reheat to 165°F (74°C); pasta may be softer after freezing. You can also freeze the soup before adding pasta and cook fresh pasta when serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does “joumou” mean?
Joumou refers to squash or pumpkin in Haitian Creole. The soup’s defining ingredient is the squash puree, which gives the broth its color and body. Different households use different squash varieties and vegetable combinations.

Can I make soup joumou ahead?
Yes. You can make the soup a day ahead and refrigerate it promptly. The flavor settles as it rests, but the pasta will continue to soak up liquid. For the best pasta texture, cook and store it separately, then add it to bowls as you serve. Reheat the soup to 165°F (74°C).

Can I use canned pumpkin instead of fresh squash?
Plain canned pumpkin can work in a pinch, but it is more concentrated and may have a different flavor and texture from freshly cooked giraumon, butternut, or kabocha. Start with about 2 cups (480 ml) of plain pumpkin puree, stir it into the broth, and adjust the thickness with broth. Do not use sweetened pumpkin pie filling.

Why is my soup too thick?
Squash puree, potatoes, and pasta all thicken the broth, especially after refrigeration. Stir in hot water or broth a little at a time until it reaches the consistency you prefer. If it is thin, simmer it uncovered briefly before adding the pasta, stirring often so the squash does not catch on the pot.

Can I make the epis in advance?
Yes. Prepare the epis ahead and refrigerate it in a covered container for up to 3 days, or freeze it in measured portions for up to 3 months. Use clean utensils when portioning it, and thaw frozen epis in the refrigerator. If using store-bought epis, check its salt level and reduce the salt in the beef marinade as needed.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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