Old-fashioned bubble and squeak is a British skillet dish made by frying cooked potatoes and cabbage (or other leftover vegetables) until golden and crisp. It is a practical way to turn Sunday-roast leftovers into a hearty breakfast, lunch, or side dish; recipes vary by household, but a crisp crust and tender middle are the aim.
Ingredients
- 3 cups (450 g) cold, cooked potatoes, peeled or unpeeled and roughly mashed
- 2 cups (160 g) cooked cabbage, well drained and chopped; Savoy or green cabbage both work
- 1 cup (150 g) cooked carrots or Brussels sprouts, chopped (optional; use more cabbage if omitted)
- 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) neutral oil, such as canola or sunflower
- ½ teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) English mustard (optional)
Instructions
- Prepare the vegetables. Pat the cooked cabbage and any additional vegetables dry with paper towels. Roughly mash the cold potatoes with a fork or masher, leaving some small chunks for texture. Put the potatoes and vegetables in a bowl with the salt, pepper, and mustard, if using. Mix until evenly combined without turning the potatoes into a smooth paste.
- Shape the mixture. Form the mixture into one thick cake about 8 inches (20 cm) across, or divide it into four smaller cakes. Press gently so it holds together; if the mixture feels loose or wet, mix in a little more mashed potato rather than adding flour.
- Heat the pan. Set a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the butter and oil. Once the butter has melted and is foaming, swirl to coat the base. The oil helps keep the butter from browning too quickly.
- Fry the first side. Add the mixture and press it into an even layer, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Cook without moving it for 10–12 minutes, adjusting the heat as needed. The underside should develop a deep golden crust. If the butter begins to smoke or the edges darken rapidly, lower the heat.
- Turn and finish. For one large cake, slide it onto a plate, place the skillet upside down over the plate, and carefully invert both so the cake lands back in the pan. Alternatively, cut it into quarters and turn each piece with a wide spatula. Fry the second side for 8–10 minutes until crisp and heated through. Smaller cakes may need about 5–6 minutes per side. Serve hot.
Tips
- Use cold, dry leftovers. Chilled potatoes and well-drained vegetables are easier to shape and brown better. If the vegetables are wet, squeeze or pat them dry first.
- Keep some texture. Roughly mash rather than beating the potatoes. A few chunks help the cake hold together and make the center less gluey.
- Give it time to crust. Resist the urge to turn or stir it repeatedly. A steady medium heat and an undisturbed first side are the keys to a cohesive golden crust.
- Adapt to what you have. Cooked kale, broccoli, peas, or leeks can replace some or all of the cabbage. The flavor will change, but the proportions should stay close to the recipe; avoid adding more than 3 cups (about 240 g) of cooked vegetables for the listed amount of potato.
Serving Suggestions
Serve bubble and squeak straight from the pan as a substantial breakfast or brunch, or offer it as a side with roast beef, pork, or sausages. A fried egg, baked beans, or grilled tomatoes makes it a simple meal on its own. For a fresh contrast, add pickled onions, chutney, or a lightly dressed green salad. If serving with gravy, pour it alongside rather than over the crisp top so the crust stays crunchy.
Variations
Individual patties: Shape the mixture into four smaller cakes and fry them as directed, turning once each side is browned. They are easier to portion and turn, though they may need slightly less time than one large cake.
Onion version: Finely chop ½ small onion (about 50 g) and cook it in the butter and oil for 4–5 minutes until soft. Stir it into the potato and vegetables before shaping. Avoid adding raw onion, which may remain sharp and wet in the center.
With roast meat: Fold in up to 1 cup (140 g) finely chopped, already-cooked roast beef or ham. Keep the meat refrigerated until mixing and cook the cakes until steaming hot throughout. For a vegetarian version, leave meat out and use a vegetarian-friendly mustard.
Extra-crisp finish: Make smaller patties and cook them in batches, allowing space around each one. Crowding traps steam and can prevent browning. Add a little more oil or butter between batches if the pan looks dry.
Storage and Reheating
Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking in a shallow, covered container. They keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat in a skillet over medium-low heat with a small amount of oil or butter for about 4–6 minutes per side, until crisp and hot throughout; leftovers should reach 165°F (74°C) when checked with a food thermometer. A 350°F (175°C) oven for about 10–15 minutes also works, though the crust may be less crisp. Do not leave cooked bubble and squeak at room temperature for more than 2 hours.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is it called bubble and squeak?
The name is commonly understood to refer to the bubbling and squeaking sounds the vegetables can make as they fry. It is a traditional British dish, often associated with using leftover potatoes and greens; exact recipes differ from one cook to another.
Can I make bubble and squeak with raw potatoes?
This recipe relies on cooked potatoes, which bind with the vegetables and brown in a reasonable time. Cook potatoes first by boiling, steaming, or baking, then cool them before mashing. Raw potato will not cook through reliably in the skillet before the outside burns.
Do I have to use cabbage?
No. Cabbage is a familiar choice, but cooked Brussels sprouts, kale, or other leftover vegetables can stand in. Keep them chopped and fairly dry; very watery vegetables can make the mixture soft and difficult to crisp.
How do I stop the cake from falling apart?
Use cold potatoes, drain the vegetables well, and press the mixture into a compact layer. Let the first side cook until a firm crust forms before turning. If a single large cake feels difficult to flip, cook smaller patties instead.
Can I prepare it ahead?
You can combine and shape the mixture up to a day ahead, cover it, and refrigerate it. Cook it directly from the refrigerator, allowing a few extra minutes over moderate heat so the center heats through without over-browning the outside.
Can bubble and squeak be frozen?
Yes. Cool cooked portions promptly, wrap or pack them airtight, and freeze for up to 2 months for best quality. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and reheat to 165°F (74°C); the texture may be a little softer than when freshly cooked.
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