Emulsifying wax is the ingredient that binds oil and water into a stable, creamy lotion or cream. Getting the amount right is the difference between a silky moisturizer and a greasy, separated mess. This guide gives you the exact percentages and simple math to calculate the right amount for any recipe, plus a basic lotion formula to practice with.
Ingredients
- Distilled water: 76% of total batch weight (e.g., 152 g for a 200 g batch)
- Emulsifying wax (NF or BTMS-50): 5–8% of total batch weight (e.g., 10–16 g for a 200 g batch)
- Carrier oil (e.g., sweet almond, jojoba, or fractionated coconut): 15–20% of total batch weight (e.g., 30–40 g for a 200 g batch)
- Optional: preservative (e.g., liquid Germall Plus) at manufacturer’s recommended rate (usually 0.5–1% of total weight)
- Optional: fragrance or essential oil at 0.5–1% of total weight (e.g., 1–2 g for a 200 g batch)
Instructions
- Decide your batch size in grams. For a first try, make 200 g (about 7 oz) — enough to fill two 4-oz jars.
- Calculate the wax amount using the percentage range. For a light lotion, use 5% wax (10 g for 200 g batch). For a thick cream, use 8% (16 g). For body butters or very thick balms, you can go up to 10% (20 g), but that may feel heavy.
- Weigh your water, oil, and wax separately using a digital scale. Use a heat-safe glass measuring cup for the water and a separate one for the oil/wax mixture.
- Heat the water in a double boiler or microwave until it reaches 160°F (71°C). Heat the oil and wax together in another container until the wax is completely melted and the mixture is clear (about 160°F/71°C).
- Combine the two mixtures: slowly pour the oil/wax mixture into the water while blending with an immersion blender. Keep blending for 2–3 minutes until the mixture is uniformly white and creamy.
- Cool to 104°F (40°C) while stirring occasionally. Add preservative and fragrance at this point if using, and blend briefly to incorporate.
- Pour into clean jars or bottles and let cool completely before capping. The lotion will thicken as it cools.
Tips
- Use a scale, not cups. Emulsifying wax is measured by weight, not volume. A digital scale accurate to 1 g is essential for consistent results.
- Start at 5% for a lotion, 8% for a cream. Too little wax (under 4%) and the lotion will separate; too much (over 10%) and it becomes a stiff balm that is hard to spread.
- If your lotion separates, it may be because the wax wasn’t fully melted or the temperature was too low. Reheat both phases to 160°F (71°C) and re-blend; this often fixes the emulsion.
- Substitute BTMS-50 for standard emulsifying wax if you want a more conditioning feel (BTMS is a different chemistry, but it works at the same percentages). Note that BTMS can leave a slightly different skin feel.
Serving Suggestions
Use your lotion as a daily body moisturizer, hand cream, or after-shower hydrator. For a lighter face lotion, use 5% wax and a non-comedogenic oil like squalane or jojoba. For a rich hand cream, use 8% wax and shea butter (replace part of the oil with shea butter, keeping total oil at 20%).
Variations
- Whipped body butter: Use 10% wax, 20% shea butter, and 70% water. Whip for 5 minutes after cooling to incorporate air.
- Lotion bars: Omit water entirely. Use 50% wax, 30% oil, 20% butter. Melt and pour into molds — no blending needed.
- Herbal infusion: Steep dried chamomile or lavender in the oil phase for 30 minutes before heating, then strain. This adds a subtle scent and skin-soothing properties.
Storage and Reheating
Store your lotion in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. It will keep for 2–3 weeks at room temperature if you used a preservative, or up to 1 week without one. Refrigerate to extend shelf life to about 1 month, but note that refrigeration can cause slight separation — just shake or stir before use. Do not reheat the finished lotion; heat can break the emulsion. If you want to reuse a batch that separated, you can reheat both phases and re-blend, but this is best done within a few days of making.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use too much emulsifying wax? Yes. More than 10% will make a very thick, greasy product that feels heavy on the skin. It may also leave a waxy film. Stick to the range unless you are intentionally making a balm.
What if I don’t have a scale? You can use volume approximations, but they are not reliable because wax density varies. A scale is inexpensive and the only way to get consistent results. If you must use volume, use 1 tablespoon of wax per cup of liquid, but expect less predictable texture.
Why did my lotion separate? The most common causes are not melting the wax completely, adding the oil too quickly, or not blending long enough. Also, if you added fragrance or essential oils that contain alcohol, they can break the emulsion. Try a water-soluble fragrance or add it after the emulsion forms.
Can I use beeswax instead of emulsifying wax? Beeswax is not a true emulsifier; it only thickens. You would need an additional emulsifier like borax or lecithin. If you substitute, you’ll need to add a separate emulsifier and adjust the percentage — this is not a 1:1 swap.
Is emulsifying wax safe for all skin types? Generally yes, it is considered non-irritating and is used in many commercial lotions. However, if you have very sensitive skin, do a patch test on your inner arm before using widely.
Can I make a lotion without preservative? Yes, but it will spoil quickly — within a few days to a week — because water-based products are prone to bacterial growth. If you skip preservative, make small batches and refrigerate them. Always use distilled water to reduce contamination risk.
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