Bacalhau à Brás is a Portuguese dish, especially associated with Lisbon, made with flakes of salt cod, crisp potatoes, onion, and softly set eggs. The salty fish and crunchy potatoes balance the mellow onion and rich egg, while parsley and olives bring a fresh, briny finish; versions vary in how finely the potatoes are cut and how creamy the eggs are.
Ingredients
- 1 lb (450 g) dried salted cod, skin and bones removed after soaking
- 8 cups (1.9 L) cold water for soaking, plus 6 cups (1.4 L) fresh water for poaching
- 1 lb (450 g) russet or other starchy potatoes
- 3 cups (710 ml) neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola, for frying; you may need slightly more or less depending on your pan
- 3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil
- 1 large yellow onion, about 8 oz (225 g), thinly sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, about 6 g, finely chopped
- 6 large eggs, about 300 g without shells
- ¼ tsp (1.5 g) fine salt, optional and only if needed after tasting
- ½ tsp (1 g) freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ cup (15 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus a little extra for serving
- ⅓ cup (50 g) pitted black olives, whole or sliced
Instructions
- Desalt the cod. Rinse the salted cod under cold running water to remove surface salt. Put it in a large nonreactive bowl, cover with the 8 cups (1.9 L) cold water, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Change the water three or four times during that period, keeping the fish cold. Thick pieces can need longer; if the cod still tastes aggressively salty after cooking, use less salt in the finished dish rather than trying to correct it with extra ingredients.
- Prepare the potatoes and aromatics. Peel the potatoes, then cut them into thin matchsticks, about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. A mandoline makes even pieces, but a sharp knife works too. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water until the water is mostly clear, drain, and spread them on a clean towel. Pat them thoroughly dry; water on potatoes can make hot oil spit. Slice the onion and chop the garlic and parsley while the potatoes dry.
- Poach and flake the fish. Drain the soaked cod and place it in a saucepan with the 6 cups (1.4 L) fresh water. Bring it just to a gentle simmer, then cook for about 8–12 minutes, depending on thickness. Check the thickest piece with a food thermometer: fish should reach the USDA FSIS safe minimum internal temperature of 145°F (63°C). Lift the fish onto a plate, let it cool just enough to handle, and remove any skin or bones. Flake it into bite-size pieces, checking carefully for small bones, and set aside.
- Fry the potato sticks. Pour the neutral oil into a deep, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, leaving plenty of room at the top, and heat it over medium-high. Fry the potatoes in small batches until pale golden and crisp, usually 3–5 minutes per batch; overcrowding cools the oil and makes them limp. Move each batch to a paper-towel-lined tray and let excess oil drain. Keep the potatoes in a loose layer so they stay crisp. Turn off the heat and let the frying oil cool before disposing of it safely.
- Soften the onion. In a large, deep skillet, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent but not deeply browned. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Stir in the flaked cod and about two-thirds of the fried potatoes, turning gently so the fish stays in flakes rather than becoming a paste. Warm everything together for 2–3 minutes.
- Add the eggs gently. Beat the eggs with the pepper in a bowl. Pour them into the skillet and lower the heat. Stir slowly and continuously, scraping the bottom and folding the mixture over itself. Cook just until the eggs are softly set and no longer look liquid, but do not let them turn dry or rubbery. Because this is an egg dish, use a food thermometer to check that the mixture reaches the USDA FSIS safe minimum internal temperature of 160°F (71°C); remove the skillet from the heat as soon as it does.
- Finish and serve. Fold in the parsley and olives. Taste a small bite before adding salt, since the cod may still contribute plenty. Scatter the remaining crisp potatoes over the top just before serving, along with extra parsley. Serve while warm, when the contrast between tender egg and crisp potato is at its best.
Tips
- Plan the desalting time. The 24-hour soak is mostly hands-off, but the bowl must stay refrigerated. If the cod is unusually thick or still tastes very salty after a small cooked flake is checked, continue soaking in fresh cold water and adjust the total time. Do not leave salted fish soaking on the counter.
- Keep the potatoes dry and fry in batches. Damp potatoes can cause splattering, and a crowded pan produces soft rather than crisp pieces. Use a deep pot, avoid filling it more than halfway with oil, and lower each batch in carefully.
- Choose a practical cod substitute if needed. Desalted frozen salt cod is convenient; thaw it in the refrigerator and skip the long soak, then poach and check it as directed. Fresh unsalted cod can also be used, though the result will be less savory and less traditionally salty, so season the onion mixture cautiously.
- Do not overcook the eggs. A low burner and steady folding give you more control. The required 160°F (71°C) finish means the eggs will be set rather than runny; taking the pan off the heat immediately at that temperature helps preserve a tender texture.
Serving Suggestions
Serve bacalhau à Brás hot as a generous main course, with a simple green salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar to balance the rich eggs and fried potatoes. A side of steamed green beans, sautéed greens, or sliced tomatoes also works without competing with the cod. Crusty bread is useful for catching any soft egg and onion left on the plate, though the dish is filling on its own.
For a small gathering, serve it family-style from a warm platter and add the final handful of potatoes at the table so they remain crisp. Keep the olives and parsley visible on top: they add color and let diners adjust each bite. If serving wine, a crisp, dry white is a natural match, but water or sparkling water is just as suitable.
Variations
Potato sticks are often made fresh as in this recipe, but thin packaged shoestring potatoes are a useful shortcut. Use about 4 oz (115 g), add them near the end so they do not soften too much, and taste before seasoning because packaged versions can be salty. The texture will be more uniform and less freshly fried, but the dish still has its characteristic combination of cod, egg, and potato.
Some cooks cut the potatoes into very fine matchsticks, while others use slightly thicker strips for a more substantial bite. You can also use a mix of black olives and green olives, or leave the olives off the skillet and offer them on the side. For a little extra freshness, add a small amount of finely grated lemon zest with the parsley; it is not essential and gives the dish a brighter, less traditional citrus note.
If you prefer a milder result, replace part of the salt cod with an equal weight of cooked, unsalted cod after desalting and flaking the salted portion. This reduces the overall saltiness, though it also softens the distinctive cured-fish flavor. Avoid adding cheese or cream as a default adjustment: the classic style gets its richness from eggs and olive oil, not a dairy sauce.
Storage and Reheating
Do not leave the finished dish at room temperature for more than 2 hours. Transfer leftovers to a shallow, covered container and refrigerate promptly; cooked fish-and-egg dishes keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator. The fried potatoes will lose their crunch as they sit, so the leftovers will be softer even when stored safely.
Reheat only the portion you plan to eat, either in a skillet over low heat with a teaspoon of water or oil, or in the microwave in short intervals, stirring between intervals. Check with a food thermometer and reheat leftovers to 165°F (74°C). Avoid prolonged high heat, which can make the eggs firm and the fish dry. Freezing is possible, but the eggs and potatoes become noticeably softer after thawing; refrigerating and eating within the recommended period gives a better texture.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make bacalhau à Brás without desalting cod overnight?
Yes, if you can buy salt cod that is already desalted, follow the package directions and keep it refrigerated. Fresh cod is another workable substitute, but it lacks the cured salt cod’s concentrated savory flavor. Do not use dry salted cod without soaking it, or the finished dish may be unpleasantly salty.
How do I know when salt cod has soaked long enough?
Soaking time depends on the thickness and salt level of the pieces. After the soak, cook a small flake and taste it; it should be savory but not sharply or overwhelmingly salty. If it is too salty, return the remaining fish to fresh cold water in the refrigerator and continue soaking, changing the water periodically.
Can I use store-bought potato sticks?
Yes. Choose plain, thin shoestring potatoes and fold them into the cod and onion near the end, reserving some for the top. They save time and avoid frying oil, but they usually make the dish saltier and give it a different, more uniformly crisp texture. Taste before adding any extra salt.
Can I prepare any part of the recipe ahead?
The cod can be soaked up to the point of cooking, provided it stays refrigerated and its soaking water is changed as directed. You can also poach and flake it earlier in the day, then cover and refrigerate it. For the best texture, fry the potatoes and cook the egg mixture close to serving time; fully assembled bacalhau à Brás does not stay crisp.
Why did my eggs turn watery or dry?
Watery eggs usually mean the heat was too low for too long, or that wet ingredients were added without draining them. Dry eggs have generally been cooked too far or held hot in the pan. Drain the cod well, stir gently over low heat, and take the skillet off the burner as soon as the egg mixture reaches 160°F (71°C).
Is bacalhau à Brás spicy?
No, the standard version is savory rather than hot, with black pepper providing gentle warmth. For a spicier variation, add a pinch of crushed red pepper to the onion while it softens, then taste before adding more. Keep the amount modest so the cod, olives, and parsley remain easy to taste.
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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