Stick Making Materials: A Complete Guide

Stick making—whether for walking sticks, hiking staffs, or decorative wands—is a craft that starts with choosing the right materials. This guide covers the essential components: wood, bark, finishes, and tools, so you can select what works for your project and budget. The key to a durable, beautiful stick is matching the wood’s properties to its intended use, and preparing it properly before finishing.

Ingredients

1 seasoned hardwood stick, 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) diameter, 36–60 inches (90–150 cm) long (e.g., ash, oak, hazel, or maple)
1 piece of coarse sandpaper (60–80 grit)
1 piece of medium sandpaper (120–150 grit)
1 piece of fine sandpaper (220–320 grit)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) boiled linseed oil or danish oil (for a natural finish)
1 soft cloth (lint-free) for applying oil
Optional: 1 rubber ferrule or metal tip (to protect the bottom)
Optional: 1 leather cord or wrap for the handle
Optional: wood stain or paint (if you want color)

Instructions

Select and cut your wood. Choose a straight, seasoned hardwood stick that is free of cracks, rot, or insect damage. Cut it to your desired length: for a walking stick, measure from the floor to your wrist with your arm hanging down; add 2 inches (5 cm) for the handle. For a hiking staff, use shoulder height.
Strip the bark (optional). If you prefer a smooth, natural wood look, remove the bark using a drawknife or a sharp knife. Work away from your body, and remove all the green inner bark. If you want to keep the bark, skip this step and proceed to sanding.
Sand the stick. Start with coarse sandpaper (60–80 grit) to remove any remaining bark, splinters, or rough spots. Work along the grain, not against it. Then move to medium (120–150 grit) and finally fine (220–320 grit) to achieve a smooth surface. Wipe off dust with a dry cloth.
Shape the handle (if desired). If you want a curved or ergonomic handle, use a knife or rasp to carve the top 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) of the stick. Sand the carved area again with fine grit to smooth it.
Apply the finish. Pour a small amount of boiled linseed oil or danish oil onto a soft cloth. Rub it into the wood in long, even strokes, covering the entire stick. Let it soak in for 15 minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Let it dry for 24 hours. For a deeper finish, apply a second coat after 24 hours.
Attach the ferrule (optional). If using a rubber or metal tip, tap it onto the bottom of the stick. For a metal tip, you may need to sand the end to fit snugly. For a rubber ferrule, push it on; if it’s loose, add a little wood glue.
Add grip wrap (optional). Wrap leather cord or tape around the handle area, securing the ends with glue or small tacks. This improves grip and comfort.

Tips

Wood selection matters: Ash and hickory are strong and flexible, ideal for hiking. Hazel is lightweight and traditional for walking sticks. Oak is heavy and durable but can be brittle. Avoid softwoods like pine—they dent easily.
Seasoning is key: Freshly cut wood must be seasoned (dried) for at least 6 months to a year before working, or it will warp and crack. If you can’t wait, use kiln-dried wood from a lumber supplier.
Sanding dust: Wear a dust mask when sanding, especially if you removed bark, as some woods (like walnut) can be irritating.
Finish safety: Boiled linseed oil rags can spontaneously combust. Lay them flat to dry completely before discarding, or soak them in water.

Serving Suggestions

Your finished stick can be used as a daily walking aid, a hiking companion, or a decorative piece. Pair it with a leather wrist loop for security, or add a small compass to the handle for outdoor adventures. For a themed look, carve initials or symbols into the handle before finishing.

Variations

Bark-on rustic stick: Leave the bark intact, but sand the surface lightly to smooth it. Apply a clear matte varnish to seal the bark and prevent peeling.
Stained or painted stick: Use wood stain or acrylic paint to add color. Apply a clear coat over the paint to protect it.
Decorated handle: Add a metal or antler handle instead of wood. Attach it with a dowel and strong epoxy.
Shillelagh style: Use blackthorn wood and leave the bark on, with a knob at the top. This traditional Irish stick is known for its hardness.

Storage and Reheating

Store your finished stick indoors, leaning against a wall or hanging from a hook, away from direct heat or sunlight to prevent drying and cracking. If the stick gets wet, dry it with a cloth and let it air dry at room temperature. To refresh the finish, lightly sand with fine grit and reapply a thin coat of oil every year or as needed. Avoid leaving it in a hot car, as heat can cause the wood to warp.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best wood for a walking stick? Ash and hazel are popular for their strength and light weight. Hickory is also excellent but heavier. For a decorative stick, any straight-grained hardwood like maple or cherry works well.

Do I need to remove the bark? It’s a matter of preference. Bark-on sticks have a rustic look and are quicker to make, but the bark can peel over time. Removing the bark gives a smoother, more polished finish and reveals the wood grain.

How long should the stick be? For a walking stick, the top should reach your wrist when your arm hangs at your side. For a hiking staff, it should reach your armpit. It’s better to cut it slightly long and then trim down.

Can I use green (freshly cut) wood? It’s not recommended. Green wood will shrink and crack as it dries. Season it for at least 6 months, or use kiln-dried wood from a craft store.

What finish is best for outdoor use? Boiled linseed oil or a marine-grade varnish provides good protection. For maximum durability, apply multiple coats of varnish, sanding lightly between coats.

How do I fix a cracked stick? Small cracks can be filled with wood filler and sanded smooth. For larger cracks, you may need to cut the stick below the crack and reshape the tip. If the crack is severe, it’s safer to start over with a new stick.

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