Stick Making Supplies: What You Need to Start

Updated November 6, 2026

Total time
30 min
prep 30 min · cook 0 min
Serves
1
one portion

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Stick Making Supplies: What You Need to Start

Making your own walking sticks, hiking staffs, or decorative wands is a rewarding craft that combines woodworking with personal expression. The right supplies make the difference between a sturdy, beautiful stick and one that splits or rots. This guide covers the essential tools and materials you need to start, from selecting the wood to applying the final finish.

Ingredients

  • 1 seasoned hardwood blank (e.g., oak, ash, maple, or hickory), 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) in diameter and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) long
  • 1 drawknife or spokeshave for shaping
  • 1 rasp or wood file (coarse and fine)
  • Sandpaper assortment (grits 80, 120, 220)
  • Wood finish: boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or polyurethane (about 4 oz / 120 ml)
  • Wood glue (waterproof, e.g., Titebond III) for attaching a rubber ferrule or tip
  • Rubber cane tip or ferrule (3/4 inch / 1.9 cm diameter)
  • Optional: leather cord, beads, or decorative carving tools

Instructions

  1. Select and prepare your wood. Choose a straight, seasoned hardwood blank that is free of cracks and rot. If the bark is still on, remove it with a drawknife or a sharp pocket knife. Let the wood dry for at least 2–3 weeks if it is green (freshly cut) to prevent warping.
  2. Shape the shaft. Use a drawknife or spokeshave to taper the stick slightly from the thicker base (where your hand grips) to the thinner top. Work along the grain, removing thin shavings. Aim for a comfortable grip diameter of about 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) at the handle.
  3. Smooth with a rasp and file. Use a coarse rasp to remove any bumps or tool marks, then switch to a fine file to smooth the surface. Work in long, even strokes.
  4. Sand progressively. Start with 80-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining roughness, then move to 120-grit, and finish with 220-grit for a silky surface. Sand in the direction of the grain, not across it.
  5. Apply the finish. Wipe the stick with a clean cloth to remove dust. Apply a thin coat of boiled linseed oil or tung oil with a soft cloth, rubbing it into the wood. Let it soak in for 15 minutes, then wipe off any excess. Repeat 2–3 times, allowing 24 hours between coats, or follow the manufacturer’s instructions for polyurethane.
  6. Attach the tip. If using a rubber cane tip, spread a small amount of wood glue inside the tip and press it onto the bottom of the stick. Wipe away any excess glue. Let the glue dry for at least 2 hours before using the stick.
  7. Add personal touches (optional). Wrap leather cord around the handle for grip, or carve patterns into the shaft before finishing. Let any additional glue or paint dry completely before handling.

Tips

  • Wood choice matters: Hardwoods like oak and hickory are more durable than softwoods like pine, but they are harder to carve. For a first project, try a softer hardwood like ash or birch.
  • Seasoning is key: Green wood will shrink and crack as it dries. Always use seasoned wood (dried for at least 6 months) or buy pre-dried blanks from a lumber supplier.
  • Safety first: Wear leather gloves when using a drawknife, and always cut away from your body. Keep tools sharp—dull tools slip and cause accidents.
  • Test the finish: Before applying finish to the whole stick, test it on a scrap piece of the same wood to ensure you like the color and sheen.

Serving Suggestions

Once your stick is finished, it can serve as a hiking companion, a walking aid, or a decorative piece for your home. Pair it with a leather wrist strap for hiking, or display it in an umbrella stand with other handmade sticks. A finished stick also makes a thoughtful, personalized gift for a nature lover.

Variations

  • Bentwood sticks: Use a young sapling and steam-bend it to create a curved handle. This requires a steam box and clamps, but yields a classic shepherd’s crook.
  • Carved totems: Add intricate carvings of animals or symbols along the shaft. Use carving gouges and chisels before sanding.
  • Painted designs: Use acrylic paints to add stripes, dots, or landscapes. Seal with a clear polyurethane topcoat.
  • Natural bark finish: Instead of removing the bark, peel it selectively to create patterns, then seal with a clear matte varnish to preserve the natural look.

Storage and Reheating

Store your finished stick in a dry place, away from extreme heat or cold, to prevent the wood from cracking. If the finish becomes dull or scratched, lightly sand with 220-grit and apply a fresh coat of oil or varnish. With proper care, a hardwood stick can last for decades. If you need to repair a loose tip, simply re-glue it with wood glue. For long-term storage, keep the stick upright in a corner or lay it flat—avoid leaning it against a radiator or in direct sunlight.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best wood for a walking stick? Oak, ash, and hickory are excellent choices because they are strong and straight-grained. For a lighter stick, try birch or cherry. Avoid softwoods like pine, which can bend or break under weight.

How do I know if my wood is dry enough? A simple test is to weigh the stick and record the weight, then weigh it again after a week. If the weight remains stable, the wood is dry. Alternatively, use a moisture meter—aim for a reading below 12%.

Can I use a stick I found in the woods? Yes, but you must remove the bark and let it season for at least 6 months before working with it. Check for cracks and insect damage, and avoid wood from poisonous trees like poison ivy (which can cause a rash).

What’s the difference between boiled linseed oil and tung oil? Boiled linseed oil dries faster and gives a warm amber tone, but it contains metallic driers that can darken over time. Tung oil is more water-resistant and food-safe, but it dries slower and has a neutral color. Both are excellent finishes.

How do I make a comfortable grip? Shape the handle to fit your hand, then wrap it with leather cord or add a rubber grip sleeve. You can also carve a thumb rest for added comfort. Sand the area well to avoid splinters.

Why does my stick keep cracking? Cracks usually occur when the wood dries too quickly or when the stick is exposed to rapid temperature changes. Always season wood slowly in a cool, dry place, and avoid leaving your finished stick in a hot car or near a fireplace.

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