Stick Making Supplies UK: What You Need

Stick making is a traditional British craft that turns a simple branch into a walking stick, hiking staff, or decorative piece. This guide covers the essential supplies you need to get started in the UK, from selecting the right wood to finishing compounds, and explains how to use them effectively. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned maker, understanding these materials and tools is key to producing a durable, beautiful stick.

Ingredients

1 suitable stick blank (e.g., hazel, ash, blackthorn, or chestnut), about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) diameter at the base and 3–5 feet (90–150 cm) long
1 sharp knife or pruning saw for cutting and shaping
Sandpaper in grades 80, 120, 220, and 400 grit (or a sanding sponge)
1 wood rasp or spokeshave for shaping the handle
1 stick ferrule (metal or rubber) – sized to fit the stick’s base (commonly 19 mm or 25 mm)
Adhesive for the ferrule (e.g., epoxy or strong wood glue)
1 stick handle or crook (optional, if not carving your own)
Wood finish: linseed oil, Danish oil, or wax (e.g., beeswax)
Protective gloves and safety glasses

Instructions

Select and prepare your stick blank. Choose a straight, seasoned piece of wood with no cracks or rot. Remove any bark using a knife or drawknife, working from the thick end to the thin. If the wood is green, allow it to season for several months in a dry, airy place before shaping.
Cut to length. Decide on the final length: for a walking stick, measure from the floor to your wrist with your arm hanging down. Add about 2 inches (5 cm) for the ferrule. Use a saw to trim the base squarely.
Shape the handle. If you’re carving a crook or knob, use a rasp or spokeshave to shape the top. Aim for a smooth, comfortable grip that fits your hand. For a bought handle, ensure it fits snugly and attach it with adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Smooth the whole stick. Begin sanding with 80-grit to remove tool marks, then progress through 120, 220, and finally 400 grit for a silky finish. Always sand in the direction of the grain.
Fit the ferrule. Measure the base diameter and select a ferrule that slides on snugly. Apply epoxy or wood glue inside the ferrule, then push it onto the stick. Wipe away any excess and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
Apply the finish. Rub linseed or Danish oil into the wood with a lint-free cloth, following the grain. Let it soak in for 15 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Repeat 2–3 times, allowing each coat to dry completely (overnight is best). For a wax finish, apply a thin layer of beeswax with a soft cloth and buff to a shine.
Final inspection. Check that the ferrule is secure, the handle is comfortable, and the finish is even. If any rough spots remain, sand lightly and reapply finish.

Tips

Wood selection: Hazel is lightweight and easy to carve, while blackthorn is dense and traditional but harder to work. Ash is strong and flexible. For beginners, hazel is the most forgiving.
Seasoning: Using green wood can lead to cracking as it dries. Always season your stick blank for at least 6 months in a dry, well-ventilated area before shaping.
Ferrule sizing: If your stick base is slightly oval, file it to a round shape before fitting the ferrule. A tight fit is crucial – if it’s too loose, the ferrule may fall off.
Safety: Always wear gloves and eye protection when cutting, rasping, or sanding. Work away from your body and keep tools sharp – a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one.

Serving Suggestions

Once your stick is finished, it’s ready for use on country walks, as a support for hiking, or as a decorative piece by the fireplace. If you’re making sticks as gifts, consider personalizing the handle with a carved initial or a leather strap.

Variations

Crook handle: Instead of a simple knob, steam-bend the top of the stick into a traditional shepherd’s crook. This requires soaking the wood in hot water and bending it around a former.
Thumb stick: Leave a small side branch near the top to act as a thumb rest – a classic design for country walking.
Decorative inlays: Add a silver band, a piece of antler, or a coloured resin inlay to the shaft for a unique touch.
Leather wrap: For extra grip, wrap the handle area with leather cord or a pre-cut leather wrap, secured with adhesive.

Storage and Reheating

Store your finished stick indoors in a dry place, away from direct heat or sunlight, to prevent the wood from drying out or warping. If the finish becomes dull over time, simply reapply a thin coat of oil or wax. For long-term storage, keep the stick upright or flat, and avoid leaning it against a radiator. With proper care, a well-made stick can last for decades.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I buy stick making supplies in the UK? Many specialist craft shops and online retailers sell stick blanks, ferrules, handles, and finishing oils. Look for suppliers that offer seasoned wood and a range of ferrule sizes. Local woodlands (with permission) can also provide free blanks.

What is the best wood for a walking stick? Hazel is a top choice for beginners due to its straight grain and ease of carving. Ash is strong and shock-absorbent, while blackthorn is dense and traditional but harder to work. Chestnut is another lightweight option.

How do I season green wood? Remove the bark and let the wood dry slowly in a cool, dry place with good airflow. This can take 6–12 months depending on thickness. Check for cracks regularly; if they appear, slow the drying by wrapping the ends in plastic.

Can I use a bought handle with a natural stick? Yes, many handles are designed to fit standard stick diameters. Ensure the handle’s hole is slightly smaller than the stick’s top, then sand the stick to fit and glue it in place with strong epoxy.

How do I fit a ferrule without it falling off? The ferrule should be a snug push-fit. If it’s loose, wrap the stick base with a thin layer of tape or use a metal file to slightly enlarge the ferrule (not recommended). Use epoxy for a permanent bond.

What finish is best for outdoor use? Linseed oil is traditional and waterproof, but it takes time to dry. Danish oil is a good alternative that dries faster. For maximum protection, apply several coats and reapply annually.

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