Stick Making UK: Tools, Wood & Step-by-Step Guide

Stick making is a traditional British countryside craft where a straight, seasoned branch is shaped, carved, and finished into a walking stick or hiking staff. This guide covers the full process from selecting and seasoning hazel or ash wood to cutting, shaping, and applying a durable finish. It works because it breaks the job into clear stages, uses tools that are affordable and easy to source in the UK, and explains the crucial drying and straightening steps that separate a sturdy stick from one that warps or snaps.

Ingredients

1 straight hazel, ash, or blackthorn branch, 1–1.5 in (2.5–4 cm) thick at the base and 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) long
Coarse sandpaper (grit 80–120)
Fine sandpaper (grit 220–320)
Linseed oil or Danish oil – 100 ml (about ½ cup)
Wood stain or wax (optional, for colour)
Rubber ferrule (walking stick tip) – 1, sized to your stick’s base diameter
Leather thong or cord (optional, for a wrist loop)

Instructions

Select and cut your wood. In late autumn or winter, when sap is down, choose a straight, knot-free shoot from a hazel, ash, or blackthorn coppice. Cut it at the base with a sharp saw or secateurs, leaving a clean cut. Aim for a stick that is slightly longer than you need, as you will trim it later. If you cannot cut your own, buy a seasoned stick blank from a craft supplier or online.
Season the wood (6–12 months). Tie the stick in a bundle and hang it in a dry, airy shed or garage. Leave the bark on during this period. Seasoning prevents the stick from splitting, warping, or shrinking after you finish it. Check monthly for mould – if you see any, improve airflow. Do not rush this step; a green stick will twist as it dries.
Strip the bark. Once seasoned, use a drawknife or a sharp knife to remove the bark. Work away from your body, holding the stick firmly on a workbench or with a shave horse. If the bark is stubborn, soak the stick in water for 30 minutes first. Remove all bark and the green cambium layer underneath, revealing the pale wood.
Straighten the stick (optional but recommended). If the stick has a slight bend, heat the curved area over a gas flame or with a heat gun until the wood feels warm to the touch (about 2–3 minutes). Then gently bend it the opposite way, holding for 30 seconds. Repeat until straight. Do not overheat – scorching weakens the wood.
Shape the handle. Decide on your handle style: a natural crook (if the branch has a bend), a wrapped handle, or a carved knob. For a knob, mark a 4–5 in (10–12 cm) section at the top and carve it down with a knife or spokeshave to a comfortable rounded shape. For a wrapped handle, leave the top straight and later bind it with leather or cord.
Smooth the whole stick. Start with coarse sandpaper (80–120 grit) to remove tool marks and smooth the surface. Work along the grain, not across it. Then switch to fine sandpaper (220–320 grit) and sand until the stick feels silky. Wipe off dust with a dry cloth.
Apply finish. Rub linseed or Danish oil into the wood with a lint-free cloth. Apply a thin, even coat and let it soak in for 15 minutes, then wipe off excess. Repeat 2–3 times, allowing 24 hours between coats. If you want colour, apply wood stain before the first oil coat, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Let the final coat cure for 48 hours.
Fit the ferrule. Measure the diameter of the stick’s base. Choose a rubber ferrule that fits snugly – if it is slightly loose, wrap the base with a few layers of masking tape to build it up. Push the ferrule on firmly. If it will not go on, warm it in hot water for 30 seconds to soften the rubber, then push.
Add a wrist loop (optional). Drill a small hole (about ¼ in / 6 mm) through the handle, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top. Thread a leather thong or cord through, tie a knot on the underside, and you have a loop to slip over your wrist.

Tips

Wood choice: Hazel is the classic beginner wood – straight, light, and easy to carve. Ash is stronger but heavier, while blackthorn has a beautiful knobbly bark if you leave it on. For a first stick, use hazel.
Seasoning shortcut: If you cannot wait 6 months, buy a kiln-dried stick blank from a craft supplier. It is ready to work immediately, though it costs more than cutting your own.
Avoid knots: Knots are weak points and hard to carve. When selecting wood, reject any branch with large or dead knots. Small, live knots are fine but sand them smooth.
Common mistake: Skipping the straightening step. Even a slightly bent stick will feel awkward and can worsen over time. Always heat and straighten before sanding.

Serving Suggestions

This stick is not for eating – it is a functional tool and craft item. Use it for country walks, hill hiking, or as a decorative piece by the fireplace. If you make several, they make thoughtful handmade gifts for walking enthusiasts. Pair your stick with a leather wrist loop and a brass or wooden collar (a decorative ring where the handle meets the shaft) for a more polished look.

Variations

Bark-on stick: Instead of stripping the bark, leave it on for a rustic, natural look. Sand only the handle and apply a clear matt varnish to seal the bark.
Carved handle: Carve a bird, animal head, or Celtic design into the handle using a carving knife and gouges. This requires practice and sharp tools.
Wrapped handle: Wrap the top 4 in (10 cm) with leather cord, paracord, or twine for a comfortable grip. Secure the ends with a dab of glue.
Thumb stick: Choose a branch with a natural side branch at the top that can act as a thumb rest. Shape it to fit your thumb and leave the bark on for grip.

Storage and Reheating

Store your finished stick indoors, leaning against a wall or hanging by the loop. Avoid leaving it in a damp shed or leaning against a radiator – extreme moisture or heat can cause the wood to crack. To refresh the finish, rub a thin coat of linseed oil over the stick every 6–12 months, let it soak for 15 minutes, and wipe off excess. If the ferrule wears down, replace it by pulling off the old one and pushing on a new one. With proper care, a stick can last decades; there is no need to “reheat” or re-season a finished stick.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the wood need to dry? Ideally 6–12 months, depending on thickness and humidity. A 1-inch (2.5 cm) thick stick will dry faster than a 1.5-inch (4 cm) one. You can speed up drying by cutting the stick into lengths and storing them in a warm, dry room, but never microwave or oven-dry – it causes cracking.

Can I use any wood? Not all wood is suitable. Hazel, ash, blackthorn, and birch are traditional because they are straight, strong, and easy to work. Softwoods like pine are too weak and splinter easily. Avoid yew and laburnum – their bark and wood are toxic if handled excessively.

Do I need a shave horse? No, but it helps. A shave horse holds the stick securely while you use a drawknife. For a beginner, a sturdy workbench with a vice or even a couple of clamps works fine. Just make sure the stick is firmly held before cutting.

Why did my stick crack? Cracking usually happens when the wood dries too quickly or unevenly. This is common if you stripped the bark before seasoning or dried it in direct sunlight. To prevent this, always season with bark on, in a shaded, airy place, and avoid drastic temperature changes.

How do I make a curved handle? Look for a branch with a natural bend or a side shoot at the top. Cut the stick so the bend becomes the handle. After seasoning, you can enhance the curve by heating and bending, but it is easier to work with the natural shape.

Is it legal to cut wood for stick making in the UK? You need permission from the landowner. Cutting wood on public land, nature reserves, or without permission is theft and can damage habitats. Always ask first, and only take what you need.

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