Bacalhau à Brás is a much-loved Portuguese cod dish made with flaky salt cod, crisp shoestring potatoes, soft-set eggs, onion, parsley, and olives. The ingredients come together in one pan for a savory, satisfying meal, and the contrast between tender fish and crunchy potatoes makes each bite especially appealing.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lb (680 g) boneless salt cod, before soaking, cut into large pieces
- 8 cups (1.9 L) cold water for each soak, plus more as needed
- 1 lb (450 g) russet potatoes, peeled
- 4 cups (950 ml) neutral frying oil, such as sunflower or canola oil; the amount needed depends on the pan
- 3 tbsp (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced, about 2 cups (300 g)
- 2 garlic cloves (6 g), finely chopped
- 1 bay leaf
- 6 large eggs (about 300 g without shells), lightly beaten
- 1/4 tsp (1 g) freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
- 1/3 cup (10 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1/3 cup (50 g) pitted black olives, whole or sliced
- Fine salt, up to 1/4 tsp (1.5 g), only if needed after tasting
Instructions
- Desalt the cod. Rinse the salt cod under cold running water to remove surface salt. Put the pieces in a large nonreactive bowl and cover them with at least 8 cups (1.9 L) cold water. Cover and refrigerate for 36 hours, changing the water about every 8 hours. Keep the fish submerged, adding more cold water if necessary. Salt cod varies in thickness and saltiness, so a thicker piece may need additional soaking; taste a small cooked flake before proceeding if you are unsure.
- Prepare the potatoes and other ingredients. After soaking, drain the cod and pat it dry. Cut the peeled potatoes into very thin matchsticks, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water until the water looks mostly clear, then drain and dry them thoroughly with a clean towel. Drying well limits splattering and helps the potatoes crisp. Slice the onion, chop the garlic and parsley, and set the olives aside.
- Fry the potatoes. Pour the neutral oil into a deep, heavy saucepan to a depth of about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm), leaving plenty of room at the top. Heat it to 350°F (175°C), checking with a thermometer. Fry the potatoes in small batches for about 5 to 7 minutes per batch, turning gently, until pale golden and crisp at the edges. Avoid crowding the pan, which lowers the oil temperature and makes the potatoes greasy. Transfer each batch to a paper-towel-lined tray and let excess oil drain. Turn off the heat and let the frying oil cool before disposing of it safely.
- Cook and flake the cod. Place the drained cod in a wide saucepan and cover it with fresh cold water. Bring the water just to a gentle simmer, then cook for about 5 to 7 minutes, depending on thickness. Check the thickest piece with a food thermometer; USDA FSIS lists 145°F (63°C) as the safe minimum internal temperature for fish. Lift the cod out and let it cool enough to handle. Remove any skin or bones and break the flesh into bite-size flakes, checking carefully for small bones.
- Soften the onion. Warm the olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and bay leaf and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and translucent but not deeply browned. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant. If the garlic starts to color quickly, lower the heat; browned garlic can make the dish taste bitter.
- Combine the cod and potatoes. Add the flaked cod to the skillet and gently fold it through the onion. Cook for about 2 minutes to warm it, then remove the bay leaf. Fold in most of the fried potatoes, saving a small handful for the top if you like. Keep the mixture moving gently so the cod stays in flakes rather than turning into a paste.
- Add the eggs safely. Reduce the heat to low and pour in the beaten eggs. Stir slowly and continuously for about 2 to 4 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the skillet, until the eggs are softly set and no longer runny. Check the center of the egg mixture with a food thermometer; USDA FSIS recommends cooking egg dishes to a safe minimum of 160°F (71°C). The eggs will firm slightly as they stand, so stop stirring once they reach that temperature rather than cooking them until dry.
- Season and serve. Stir in the black pepper and most of the parsley. Taste a small bite before adding salt, since the cod may still contribute plenty. Scatter the olives and remaining parsley over the top, add the reserved potatoes if using, and serve while warm.
Tips
- Allow enough time for salt cod. Start soaking a day and a half ahead and keep the bowl refrigerated, not on the counter. If your cod is especially thick or tastes strongly salty after 36 hours, change the water and continue soaking for several more hours. Salt cod brands and cuts are not equally salty, so checking a cooked flake is more reliable than assuming the same soak fits every piece.
- Dry the potatoes thoroughly. Wet potatoes can make hot oil splatter, and damp matchsticks tend to steam instead of crisp. A salad spinner followed by a clean towel works well. Frying in batches also matters: if the pan is crowded, the temperature drops and the potatoes absorb more oil.
- Use fresh cod when salt cod is unavailable. Replace the soaked salt cod with 1 1/2 lb (680 g) fresh boneless cod. Skip the soaking step and cook the fresh fish as directed, checking for 145°F (63°C). The finished dish will be milder and less savory, so season carefully after tasting; a little extra olive oil and parsley can help round out the flavor without making it overly salty.
- Keep the eggs moving, but gently. Low heat and slow stirring make tender curds and help prevent the eggs from catching on the skillet. A wide nonstick or well-seasoned skillet is convenient, though any heavy pan works if you stir and scrape steadily. Do not add the eggs until the cod and onions are warm and ready.
Serving Suggestions
Serve bacalhau à Brás as soon as it is cooked, while the eggs are tender and the potatoes still have some crunch. It is filling enough to be the main course, particularly when portions are generous. A simple green salad with lettuce, cucumber, and a sharp wine-vinegar dressing provides a fresh contrast to the rich eggs and olive oil. Steamed green beans or lightly dressed tomato slices also fit naturally beside the cod.
Set out extra parsley, olives, and black pepper at the table so people can finish their portions to taste. Crusty bread is useful for scooping up any soft egg and onion left on the plate. If serving several dishes, keep this one warm only briefly; a long hold softens the potatoes and can overcook the eggs. For a Portuguese-inspired meal, pair it with a vegetable side and fruit for dessert rather than adding another heavy main course.
Variations
Bacalhau à Brás has regional and household variations, and this version is one practical way to make it at home. Some cooks use packaged shoestring potatoes instead of cutting and frying fresh potatoes. For that shortcut, use about 4 cups (100 g) plain crisp shoestring potatoes, add them near the end so they retain some texture, and omit the frying oil. Packaged potatoes are usually salted, so taste before adding any extra salt.
For a less rich skillet, use 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil to soften the onion and replace the fried potatoes with 4 cups (about 120 g) store-bought baked potato sticks. The result is less crisp and less traditional in texture, but it is convenient. You can also add 1/2 cup (75 g) finely chopped roasted red pepper with the cod for a sweeter, brighter variation. Keep additions modest so they do not overwhelm the fish and egg.
For a meat-free adaptation, replace the cod with 1 lb (450 g) sautéed mushrooms and season the onion mixture with a small pinch of smoked paprika. It will not have the same briny character as the cod version, but the mushrooms provide a savory alternative. If you want a less salty fish flavor while keeping the dish recognizably centered on cod, fresh cod is the most direct substitute. Avoid adding salt until the finished mixture has been tasted.
Storage and Reheating
For food safety, refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking, preferably in a shallow airtight container so they cool promptly. Bacalhau à Brás keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The potatoes soften as they sit, and the eggs become firmer, so the leftovers will not have quite the same texture as freshly made portions.
Reheat only the portion you plan to eat. Warm it in a covered skillet over low heat with a teaspoon or two of water, stirring gently until the center reaches 165°F (74°C). You can also use a microwave in short bursts, stirring between intervals, and check the middle with a food thermometer. The extra moisture helps the eggs warm without drying out, although it cannot restore the original crispness. Do not leave the dish at room temperature for more than 2 hours, and discard any leftovers that have been held longer.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should salt cod soak before cooking?
For the pieces in this recipe, begin with 36 hours in the refrigerator and change the water about every 8 hours. The right time depends on thickness and how heavily the fish was salted. If a cooked flake still tastes unpleasantly salty, soak the fish in fresh cold water for a few more hours, then drain it well. Do not soak it at room temperature.
Can I make bacalhau à Brás with fresh cod?
Yes. Use the same weight of boneless fresh cod, omit the long soaking stage, and cook the fish until it reaches 145°F (63°C) at its thickest point. Fresh cod has a gentler flavor than salt cod, so the dish will taste less briny. Taste before seasoning, since the olives and any remaining salt in the other ingredients still contribute flavor.
Why did my fried potatoes turn soft?
Soft potatoes usually mean they were damp, the frying oil was too cool, or too many were added at once. Dry the matchsticks thoroughly, bring the oil back to 350°F (175°C) between batches, and fry in small portions. Even properly crisp potatoes soften somewhat when folded into the warm eggs, which is part of the dish’s texture; reserve a few to scatter on top if you want a crunchier finish.
Is bacalhau à Brás supposed to be creamy or firm?
It should be moist, with soft pieces of egg coating the cod and potatoes, rather than wet or runny. The eggs need to reach the safe minimum of 160°F (71°C), so they will be more set than a very loose scramble. Stir over low heat and remove the pan from the burner promptly once the center reaches that temperature; extra cooking can make the eggs dry and rubbery.
Can I prepare any part of the recipe ahead?
Yes. Desalt the cod in advance and keep it refrigerated, then drain and flake it shortly before cooking. You can also slice the onion and chop the parsley a few hours ahead, storing them covered in the refrigerator. Fried potatoes are best made close to serving because they lose crispness, and the finished dish is at its best immediately after the eggs are cooked.
What can I use instead of the black olives?
Simply leave them out if you do not enjoy olives. A few capers, rinsed and drained, can provide a similar salty accent, though their sharper flavor changes the finish. Use about 1 tbsp (9 g) capers in place of the olives, then taste before adding salt. Parsley and black pepper are enough to finish the dish if you prefer neither option.
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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