How to Own Goats: A Complete Beginner’s Guide

How to Own Goats: A Complete Beginner's Guide

Owning goats is a rewarding venture that provides fresh milk, natural brush control, and entertaining companionship. This guide covers the essentials—from choosing breeds and building shelter to daily care, feeding, and health maintenance—so you can start your herd with confidence. Before you begin, check local zoning laws and HOA rules to ensure goats are permitted on your property.

What You’ll Need

At least two goats (they are herd animals and get lonely)
Secure fencing: 4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) woven wire or electric netting
A dry, draft-free shelter (3-sided shed or barn stall)
Hay feeder and water trough (heated in winter)
Minerals formulated for goats (loose or block)
Hoof trimmers and a hoof trimming stand or sturdy table
Basic first-aid kit: antiseptic, bandages, thermometer, electrolytes
Feed: quality hay (grass or alfalfa), grain for pregnant/lactating does, and browse
Vet contact who treats livestock

Step-by-Step

Check local regulations. Contact your county extension office or municipal planning department. Confirm that goats are allowed, how many you can keep, and any setback requirements from property lines.
Choose your breed based on your goal. For milk: Nubian, Saanen, or Alpine. For meat: Boer or Kiko. For fiber: Angora or Pygora. For pets/brush control: Nigerian Dwarf or Pygmy. Buy from a reputable breeder who can provide health records.
Get at least two goats. Goats are social and can become stressed or ill if kept alone. Start with two does (females) or wethers (castrated males) to avoid breeding surprises.
Build secure fencing. Goats are escape artists. Use 4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) high woven wire with 4×4 inch (10×10 cm) openings, or electric netting. Check for gaps and reinforce corners. Never use barbed wire—it can injure them.
Provide shelter. A three-sided shed facing away from prevailing winds works well. Allow at least 15–20 sq ft (1.4–1.9 m²) per goat. Keep bedding dry with straw or wood shavings.
Set up feeding stations. Use a hay feeder to reduce waste. Provide fresh water daily; in winter, use a heated bucket. Offer loose goat minerals free-choice in a covered container.
Feed a balanced diet. Goats need roughage: good-quality grass hay (or alfalfa for lactating does). Supplement with grain (1–2 lbs / 0.5–1 kg per day) only for pregnant or lactating does. Always provide browse—brush, leaves, and weeds—which goats naturally forage.
Establish a daily routine. Check goats morning and evening: look for signs of illness (lethargy, loss of appetite, diarrhea, coughing). Refill water and hay, and observe their behavior.
Trim hooves every 4–8 weeks. Use clean hoof trimmers. Cut away excess hoof wall and sole, being careful not to cut into the pink ‘quick.’ If unsure, ask a vet or experienced goat owner to demonstrate.
Schedule veterinary care. Have a vet perform a yearly checkup and administer vaccines (CD-T for enterotoxemia and tetanus). Deworm based on fecal testing, not on a fixed schedule—overuse of dewormers creates resistance.
Plan for breeding (if you have does). Breed at 8–10 months or when they weigh at least 80% of adult weight. Gestation is about 150 days. Provide extra nutrition in the last 6 weeks and be ready for kidding (birthing).

Common Mistakes

Keeping only one goat. A lonely goat will cry constantly and may become depressed or ill.
Using inadequate fencing. Goats can push through flimsy wire or jump over low fences. Invest in sturdy fencing from the start.
Feeding only grain. Too much grain can cause bloat, acidosis, or urinary stones. Hay and browse should be the bulk of their diet.
Ignoring hoof care. Overgrown hooves lead to lameness and joint issues. Trimming is not optional.
Not providing minerals. Goats need copper and selenium, which are often lacking in local soil. A goat-specific mineral supplement prevents deficiencies.
Assuming goats eat anything. They are picky and can be poisoned by plants like rhododendron, azalea, or yew. Learn what’s toxic in your area.

Tips

Start with wethers (castrated males) if you want easy, low-maintenance pets. They are calmer and don’t require breeding management.
Provide a sturdy climbing structure (like a wooden spool or rocks) for exercise and entertainment—goats love to climb.
Use a livestock guardian dog or a donkey if you have predator issues, but ensure they are trained to be gentle with goats.
Quarantine new goats for 30 days before introducing them to your herd to prevent disease spread.
Learn to administer basic injections and oral medications—your vet can teach you, saving you emergency calls.
Join a local goat-keeping group or online forum for breed-specific advice and support.

Troubleshooting

Goat is escaping. Inspect fencing for holes or weak spots. Add an electric wire at the top or bottom. Goats often escape by pushing under, so bury wire or add a bottom rail.

Goat is not eating. Check for signs of illness: fever (normal temp 102–103°F / 39–39.5°C), diarrhea, or lethargy. Offer fresh, palatable hay and ensure water is clean. If no improvement in 12 hours, call a vet.

Hooves are overgrown and sore. Trim immediately. If you’re unsure how much to cut, trim a little at a time. If bleeding occurs, apply pressure with a clean cloth and a styptic powder.

Goat is bloated. This is an emergency. Call a vet immediately. While waiting, walk the goat gently to help relieve gas. Do not feed until the vet advises.

Goat is coughing or has a runny nose. Could be a respiratory infection or parasites. Isolate the goat and consult your vet. Check for nasal discharge and take its temperature.

Goat is not gaining weight. Check for internal parasites (do a fecal float test). Deworm if needed, and ensure it’s getting enough high-quality hay and minerals.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How much land do I need for goats?
A: A general rule is 1/4 to 1/2 acre per goat for grazing, but goats are browsers and don’t need vast pasture. They can thrive on a small lot if you provide hay and browse.

Q: Do goats need a companion?
A: Yes, absolutely. Goats are herd animals and can develop severe stress and health issues if kept alone. Always keep at least two.

Q: What do goats eat besides hay?
A: Goats love to browse on shrubs, weeds, and tree leaves. You can offer vegetable scraps (avoid onions, garlic, and avocado), but introduce new foods slowly to prevent digestive upset.

Q: How long do goats live?
A: Goats typically live 10–15 years, though some can live longer with excellent care. Be prepared for a long-term commitment.

Q: Do goats need to be milked even if I don’t have kids?
A: Yes, if you have a lactating doe, she must be milked daily (or have kids nursing) to prevent mastitis and discomfort. If you don’t want to milk, don’t breed your does.

Q: Are goats noisy?
A: Some breeds are louder than others (Nubians are known for their loud calls). Does in heat or hungry goats can be vocal. Check local noise ordinances before getting goats.

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