This isn’t a dish you eat—it’s a recipe for creating a stunning piece of furniture inspired by the iconic imagery associated with Nathan Hunter. Think of it as a woodworking project that combines classic joinery with a bold, graphic visual element, resulting in a piece that’s both functional and a conversation starter. The “secret sauce” is a simple, foolproof technique for transferring a high-contrast image onto wood, which turns a basic table or shelf into a work of art.

Ingredients

1 piece of furniture (e.g., a simple side table, stool, or shelf) – any wood type
1 high-contrast black and white image (your own design or a classic icon), sized to fit your furniture
1 roll of wax paper or parchment paper
1 bottle of wood glue (e.g., Titebond II) – about 1/2 cup (120 ml) for a small table
1 cup (240 ml) of water
1 foam brush or old paintbrush
1 plastic scraper or old credit card
1 clean, lint-free cloth
1 can of clear matte or satin polyurethane spray (optional, for sealing)
Fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit)

Instructions

Prepare your image. Print your chosen image on a standard inkjet printer using regular printer paper. The image must be black and white and have strong contrast (think silhouettes, bold graphics, or high-contrast photography). Flip the image horizontally in your printing settings if you want it to face a specific direction on the final piece.
Prep the furniture surface. Sand the surface where you’ll apply the image with 220-grit sandpaper until it’s smooth. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth or a damp lint-free cloth. The surface must be clean, dry, and free of any finish.
Apply the glue. Pour a generous amount of wood glue into a disposable cup. Using your foam brush, apply a thick, even coat of glue to the entire surface where the image will go. Don’t be stingy—you want a wet, glossy layer.
Place the image. Carefully lay your printed image face-down onto the glue. Make sure it’s positioned exactly where you want it. Smooth it out with your hands to remove any air bubbles.
Burnish the image. Take your plastic scraper or credit card and firmly press down on the back of the paper, working from the center outward. This pushes the paper into the glue and removes any remaining air bubbles. Let it sit for 10 minutes.
Wet the paper. Dip your cloth in the cup of water and wring it out so it’s damp, not dripping. Gently dab the entire surface of the paper until it’s uniformly wet. You want it saturated but not soaked.
Rub off the paper. With your fingers, begin to gently roll and rub the wet paper in small circles. The paper will start to pill and come off, leaving the ink behind. This is the most delicate step—be patient and don’t rub too hard, or you’ll remove the ink too. Keep the surface damp as you work.
Let it dry completely. Once all the paper is removed and you can see your image clearly, let the piece dry completely. This can take 2-4 hours depending on humidity. The image will look cloudy and white at first—don’t panic.
Seal the image (optional but recommended). Once the glue is fully dry and clear, apply 2-3 thin coats of clear polyurethane spray, allowing each coat to dry according to the can’s instructions. This protects the image from moisture and wear.

Tips

Image choice is key: The technique works best with images that have bold, solid black areas. Fine details or thin lines will likely be lost in the transfer process. Think iconic, high-contrast designs.
Use the right paper: Standard printer paper is perfect. Do not use glossy photo paper—the ink won’t release from it. Also, ensure your printer uses inkjet ink, not laser toner. Laser toner won’t transfer with this method.
Don’t rush the rubbing: The rubbing step is where most people go wrong. If the paper feels too dry, add a little more water with your damp cloth. Work slowly and gently. The goal is to remove the paper fibers, not to scrub the ink off.
Test first: If you’re new to this technique, practice on a scrap piece of wood first. This will give you a feel for how much water to use and how much pressure to apply.

Serving Suggestions

This piece of furniture is best served as a functional art piece in your home. Place it in an entryway to hold keys and mail, use it as a nightstand in a guest room, or display it in a living room as a unique side table for a lamp and a cup of coffee. It’s a great conversation starter and adds a personal, artistic touch to any space.

Variations

Colorize it: After the transfer is dry, you can hand-paint over the image with acrylic paints to add color. You can also use a colored wood stain over the entire piece before sealing.
Different surfaces: This technique works on any unfinished wood surface, but it can also be applied to canvas, fabric, or even painted surfaces (as long as the paint is fully cured and not glossy).
Use a different adhesive: While wood glue is the classic choice, you can also use gel medium (available at art supply stores). The process is identical, but gel medium dries clear and is slightly more forgiving.

Storage and Reheating

This isn’t a dish, so there’s no reheating involved. However, to keep your finished piece looking its best, avoid placing it in direct sunlight for extended periods, as this can fade the ink. To clean, simply wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. If you don’t seal the image, it’s best to keep it away from moisture and heavy handling. The piece will last for years if treated with reasonable care.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a laser printer? No. Laser printers use toner, which is a plastic powder that is fused to the paper with heat. The water and glue method won’t release toner from the paper. You must use an inkjet printer.

Why is my image coming out patchy or incomplete? This usually happens when you rub too hard or too long in one spot, removing the ink along with the paper. It can also happen if the paper wasn’t wet enough. Be gentle and patient, and keep the surface damp.

What if I don’t like the result? You can sand the image off with 80-grit sandpaper once the glue is dry, and start again. The piece will be slightly worn, but you can re-sand it smooth and reapply a finish.

Can I use a color image? Technically yes, but the results are often disappointing. The technique transfers the darkest pigments best. Black and white images with high contrast give the most reliable and striking results.

How long does the glue take to dry? The glue needs to be completely dry before you seal it, which typically takes 2-4 hours. If you’re in a humid environment, it could take longer. The image will look cloudy until it’s fully dry.

Can I do this on a piece of furniture that already has a finish? It’s best to sand down to bare wood first. The glue needs to penetrate the wood fibers to create a strong bond. A glossy finish will prevent the glue from adhering properly, and the image will peel off.

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Nathan Hunter Iconic Images Fine Furniture Recipe