Ukrainian perogies, traditionally called varenyky, are tender dough dumplings filled here with potatoes, farmer cheese, and onion. This home-style version is boiled and served with buttery onions and sour cream; fillings and doughs vary by region and family, so it is one familiar approach rather than the only traditional one.
Ingredients
- 4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, plus a little extra for rolling
- 1⅓ cups (315 ml) warm water
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola oil
- 1 teaspoon (6 g) fine salt, for the dough
- 2 pounds (900 g) starchy potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
- 2 medium onions (about 300 g total), finely diced
- 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter, for the onions and filling
- 1 cup (225 g) farmer cheese, crumbled
- 1 teaspoon (6 g) fine salt, for the filling, plus 1 tablespoon (18 g) for the potato water
- ¼ teaspoon (0.5 g) black pepper
- 4 tablespoons (56 g) butter, for serving
- 1 cup (240 g) sour cream, for serving, optional
Instructions
- Mix and rest the dough. Stir the flour and dough salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the warm water and oil. Mix with a fork until shaggy, then knead by hand on a lightly floured surface for about 7 minutes, until the dough feels smooth and elastic. It should be soft but not sticky; work in a spoonful of flour if it clings heavily to your hands. Cover the dough with an inverted bowl or a clean damp towel and let it rest for 30 minutes. This rest gives the flour time to absorb water, making the dough easier to roll without tearing.
- Cook the potatoes and onions. Put the potato pieces in a saucepan and cover them with cold water by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Add the tablespoon of salt, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 18 minutes, until a knife slides easily into the largest piece. Meanwhile, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add both diced onions and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and golden in places. Set aside about half the onions for serving and keep the rest for the filling.
- Make and cool the filling. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and return them to the warm pot. Mash until mostly smooth; a few small lumps are fine, but large pieces can make the dumplings hard to seal. Fold in the farmer cheese, the filling salt, pepper, and the portion of cooked onion for the filling. Taste and adjust the seasoning while it is still easy to mix. Spread the filling in a shallow bowl and let it cool for 10 minutes. Warm filling can soften the dough and make the edges slippery, so give it time to lose its steam.
- Roll and cut the dough. Divide the rested dough in half and keep one piece covered while you work with the other. On a lightly floured surface, roll it to about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Cut rounds about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across with a biscuit cutter or the rim of a glass. Gather the scraps, cover them, and reroll once. Repeat with the second piece of dough. If the surface becomes sticky, dust it lightly rather than working a lot of extra flour into the dough.
- Fill and seal the perogies. Place about 1 level tablespoon of filling in the center of each round. Fold the dough over to make a half-moon, keeping the filling away from the edge. Press the edges together firmly, then crimp them with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Check for gaps and trapped filling; even a small opening can let water into a dumpling. Set the finished perogies on a floured tray with space between them, and cover loosely with a clean towel as you work. This shaping should take about 37 minutes, depending on your pace.
- Boil in batches. Bring a large pot of fresh water to a steady boil. Lower in about 8 to 10 perogies at a time, giving them room to move. Stir gently once just after adding them so they do not stick to the bottom. When they float, cook for 2 more minutes, then lift them out with a slotted spoon. Each batch takes about 4 minutes, and three batches should take roughly 12 minutes. Transfer the dumplings to a warm serving dish. If the pot stops boiling after you add a batch, wait for it to return to a gentle boil before starting the cooking time.
- Butter and serve. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and spoon it over the perogies. Add the reserved onions and toss or spoon them gently over the top. Serve hot, with sour cream on the side if desired.
Tips
- Choose the right flour texture. Start with the measured flour, then add extra only as needed for kneading and rolling. Too much flour can make the dough tough and dry around the filling. If the dough springs back while rolling, cover it and let it rest for another 5 minutes instead of pressing harder.
- Use a practical cheese substitute. Farmer cheese has a mild, slightly tangy flavor and a fairly dry texture. If it is difficult to find, substitute an equal weight of well-drained ricotta; ricotta is softer and wetter, so drain it in a fine sieve for 30 minutes first. Small-curd cottage cheese, also drained well, works in a pinch but gives a less smooth filling.
- Keep the edges clean. Flour or potato filling on the rim can stop the dough from sealing. Brush away any filling, then press the edge firmly. If a round dries while waiting, lightly moisten just its edge with water before sealing; avoid wetting the whole dumpling.
- Freeze extras before boiling. Arrange uncooked perogies in one layer on a parchment-lined tray and freeze until firm, then pack them into a freezer bag. Freezing them separately first helps prevent a solid clump. Boil from frozen without thawing, allowing a few extra minutes and checking that the centers are hot.
Serving Suggestions
Serve these perogies as a filling main course, with the buttery onion topping and a spoonful of sour cream. A simple cucumber salad, shredded cabbage salad, or sliced tomatoes adds a fresh, crisp contrast to the soft dumplings. For a heartier meal, offer sautéed cabbage or roasted root vegetables alongside them. Keep the accompaniments lightly seasoned so the potato, cheese, and onion filling remains the focus.
For a traditional-style table, bring the dumplings to the table in a warmed serving bowl and set extra onions and sour cream nearby. They are also easy to serve as a shared dish: arrange them in a shallow platter rather than piling them high, which helps keep them from sticking together. A little melted butter between layers can help if you need to hold the cooked perogies for a few minutes before serving.
Variations
Potato and cheese is a familiar filling, but Ukrainian varenyky are made with many different fillings, and households have their own preferences. For a sharper flavor, replace up to half the farmer cheese with finely grated aged cheddar; the filling will taste more pronounced and less traditionally mild. For a dairy-free version, omit the farmer cheese and use extra mashed potato with a spoonful of sautéed onion. The result is less tangy and more potato-forward.
You can also make a cabbage filling by finely chopping cooked cabbage, squeezing out excess moisture, and mixing it with browned onion. For a sweet version, use fresh or frozen pitted cherries, drained if thawed, with a little sugar; keep the filling small and seal carefully because fruit releases juice as it cooks. These fillings are alternatives, not additions to the potato mixture, and may need different seasoning. The same dough can be used, though very wet fillings are more likely to leak.
For a browned finish, boil the dumplings first, drain them well, then pan-fry them in a little butter over medium heat until lightly golden on both sides. This adds a crisp exterior and makes the dish richer. Work in batches so the pan is not crowded, and handle the dumplings gently: freshly boiled dough is tender and can split if turned roughly.
Storage and Reheating
Refrigerate cooked perogies within 2 hours of cooking. Store them in a covered container for 3 to 4 days, ideally with a small amount of butter between layers to reduce sticking. Keep any sour cream separate. For the best texture, reheat a portion in a covered skillet with a splash of water and a little butter over medium-low heat until steaming hot, turning gently. You can also microwave them covered in short intervals, stirring or turning between intervals so they heat evenly.
Leftovers should be reheated to 165°F (74°C), as measured with a food thermometer. Avoid repeatedly warming and cooling the same batch; heat only what you plan to eat. Uncooked perogies freeze well for up to about 2 months for best quality. Freeze them in a single layer until firm before transferring to a sealed freezer container, then cook them straight from frozen. Cooked perogies can also be frozen, though their dough may soften slightly after thawing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Ukrainian perogies and varenyky the same thing?
Perogies is a widely used English name for filled dumplings, especially in communities with Ukrainian and other Eastern European roots. In Ukrainian, the dumplings are called varenyky. Names, shapes, fillings, and serving customs can vary, but this recipe uses the Ukrainian name and a familiar potato-and-cheese filling.
Why did my perogies open while boiling?
The edge may not have been pressed firmly, filling may have been caught between the dough layers, or the dough may have dried before sealing. Keep unused dough covered, use a modest spoonful of cool filling, and check each seam before boiling. A gentle boil is also kinder to the dumplings than a vigorous, splashing one.
Can I make the dough or filling ahead?
Yes. The dough can be made, wrapped, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours; let it sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes before rolling so it is easier to handle. The cooked potato filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. If chilled, bring it out while you roll the dough so it is easier to portion, but do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.
How can I tell when the dumplings are cooked?
They usually rise to the surface as the dough cooks, but floating alone is not the full timing cue. Once they float, cook them for 2 more minutes, then check one: the dough should be tender throughout and not taste floury in the center. Avoid boiling all the dumplings at once, since crowding lowers the water temperature and can make them stick.
Can I use cheddar instead of farmer cheese?
Yes. Use about 225 g (1 cup) finely grated cheddar in place of the farmer cheese. Cheddar is firmer, saltier, and more strongly flavored, so taste the filling before adding extra salt. A mild cheddar gives a closer, softer flavor; a sharp one makes the cheese more noticeable.
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