Skimming plasterboard is the classic way to get a smooth wall, but it’s messy, takes skill, and dries slowly. If you want a flat, paintable surface without the plastering learning curve, there are several genuinely effective alternatives. These methods use materials you can find at any hardware store, and they work especially well for DIYers repairing patches or covering entire walls.
Ingredients
- 1 roll of fiberglass mesh tape (about 300 ft / 90 m) – for joints and cracks
- 1 quart (946 ml) of joint compound (all-purpose or lightweight) – enough for a 10×10 ft (3×3 m) wall
- 1 quart (946 ml) of setting-type joint compound (optional, for faster drying) – if you want to speed up the process
- 1 quart (946 ml) of primer (PVA primer or drywall primer) – to seal the surface before painting
- 1 quart (946 ml) of paint – your final color
- 1 drywall knife set (4, 6, and 10 inch / 10, 15, and 25 cm) – for applying compound
- 1 sanding block or pole sander with 120-grit and 220-grit sandpaper – for smoothing
- 1 bucket of warm water and a sponge – for cleaning tools
- 1 drop cloth or plastic sheeting – to protect floors
- 1 respirator mask and safety glasses – for sanding
Instructions
- Prepare the surface. Remove any loose paper or debris from the plasterboard. Wipe the wall with a damp cloth to remove dust. If there are any protruding screws or nails, drive them just below the surface with a hammer or screwdriver.
- Apply fiberglass mesh tape to all joints and cracks. Cut the tape to length, press it firmly into the corner or over the crack, and smooth it down with your fingers. For inside corners, fold the tape lengthwise to create a crease and press it into the corner.
- Mix your joint compound. If using setting-type compound, mix according to the package directions (usually a powder-to-water ratio). If using ready-mixed, stir it well. For a smoother texture, add a small amount of water (about 1/4 cup / 60 ml per quart) and mix thoroughly.
- Apply the first coat of compound. Using a 6-inch (15 cm) knife, spread a thin layer of compound over the tape, pressing firmly to embed it. Then, using a 10-inch (25 cm) knife, feather the edges by pulling the compound outward from the center, tapering it to zero at the edges. Let this dry completely (about 2 hours for ready-mixed, 30 minutes for setting-type).
- Apply the second coat. Once the first coat is dry, apply a second, wider coat using the 10-inch (25 cm) knife. This coat should be slightly thicker in the center and feather out even wider. Let dry again.
- Sand the surface. Once the second coat is dry, sand with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth out any ridges. Then switch to 220-grit for a final smooth finish. Wipe the dust off with a dry cloth.
- Prime the wall. Apply a coat of PVA primer or drywall primer using a roller or brush. This seals the porous joint compound and ensures your paint adheres evenly. Let the primer dry completely (about 1 hour).
- Paint the wall. Apply your final coat of paint. For best results, use a roller for large areas and a brush for edges and corners. Let dry, then apply a second coat if needed.
Tips
- Substitution: If you don’t have fiberglass mesh tape, you can use paper tape, but it’s trickier to embed and requires a thin layer of compound first. Mesh tape is more forgiving for DIYers.
- Storage: Leftover joint compound can be stored in an airtight container for up to a month. Add a thin layer of water on top before sealing to prevent a skin from forming.
- Common mistake: Don’t apply too much compound at once – it will crack and take forever to dry. Thin, even coats are the key. Also, avoid sanding too aggressively, as you can cut into the paper facing of the plasterboard.
- Speed trick: Use setting-type joint compound (like Sheetrock 90) for the first two coats. It dries in 90 minutes, so you can finish the entire job in a few hours instead of waiting overnight.
Serving Suggestions
This technique is perfect for preparing a wall for paint, wallpaper, or even a textured finish. It works on new plasterboard, existing drywall, and repairs. Once primed and painted, the wall looks as smooth as a professionally skimmed surface.
Variations
- Textured finish: Instead of sanding the second coat perfectly smooth, you can leave it slightly textured and then use a textured roller or spray to create a knockdown or orange-peel finish.
- Using a sprayer: For large areas, you can apply the joint compound with a hopper gun or sprayer, then trowel it smooth. This is faster but requires more equipment and practice.
- Level 5 finish: For a truly mirror-smooth surface, apply a third coat of compound thinned with water (about 10% water) and then sand with 220-grit. This is called a Level 5 finish and is often used in high-end homes.
Storage and Reheating
This is a construction project, not a meal, so there’s no storage or reheating. However, you can store leftover joint compound in an airtight container for up to a month. Primer and paint can be stored in their original cans with lids tightly sealed for up to a year. Sanding dust should be cleaned up immediately to avoid respiratory irritation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I skip the primer and just paint? No, primer is essential. Joint compound is porous and will absorb paint unevenly, leaving dull spots. Primer seals the surface and ensures a uniform finish.
How long does each coat take to dry? Ready-mixed joint compound takes about 2 hours per coat, while setting-type compound can dry in 30 to 90 minutes depending on the product. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions.
Do I need to sand between coats? It’s not strictly necessary if you apply each coat smoothly, but a light sanding with 120-grit between coats will help remove any bumps and ensure better adhesion.
Can I use this method on a ceiling? Yes, the same technique works on ceilings. Just be prepared for more physical effort and use a pole sander to reach high areas.
What if I have a large hole in the plasterboard? For holes larger than about 6 inches (15 cm), you’ll need to cut out the damaged section and install a new piece of plasterboard, then tape and compound the seams. This method is for covering existing surfaces, not for structural repairs.
Is this method cheaper than hiring a plasterer? Yes, the materials cost about $50 to $100 for a small room, while hiring a professional can cost several hundred dollars. It does take time and effort, but it’s a very cost-effective DIY solution.
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