Bacalhau in English: Meaning and a Portuguese Recipe

Bacalhau is Portuguese for salt cod, and Bacalhau à Brás is a well-known way to serve it: gently cooked cod tossed with crisp potato matchsticks, onion, and eggs. This practical home-style version finishes with olives and parsley; recipes vary, but the combination makes a savory, filling meal.

Ingredients

1 lb (450 g) boneless, dry-salted cod, preferably in thick pieces
1 lb (450 g) russet or Yukon Gold potatoes
2 cups (475 ml) neutral frying oil, such as sunflower or canola oil; you may not use all of it
3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, about 6 oz (170 g), thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, about 3 g, finely chopped (optional)
6 large eggs, about 300 g without shells
¼ tsp (1 g) ground black pepper, plus more to taste
¼ cup (15 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley
12 pitted black olives, about 35 g, halved or sliced
Fine salt, as needed after tasting; the cod can remain quite salty

Instructions

Desalt the cod. Rinse the salt cod under cold running water to remove surface salt. Put it in a large nonreactive bowl, cover it generously with cold water, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Change the water about every 6 to 8 hours, keeping the fish cold throughout. If the pieces are unusually thick or still taste strongly salty after a small cooked flake is sampled, continue soaking and change the water again; the salt level and thickness vary by brand and cut.
Prepare the potatoes and other ingredients. Drain the cod and pat it dry. Peel the potatoes, then cut them into matchsticks about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Keep them in cold water while you finish slicing the onion and chopping the garlic and parsley. Drain and dry the potatoes thoroughly with a clean towel before frying; wet potatoes can cause hot oil to spit.
Fry the potatoes. Pour the neutral oil into a deep, heavy skillet or wide saucepan to a depth of about ½ inch (1 cm). Heat it over medium to medium-high heat. Fry the potatoes in two or three batches for about 5 to 7 minutes per batch, turning occasionally, until tender and lightly golden at the edges. They do not need to be dark or uniformly crisp because they will soften a little in the eggs. Transfer each batch to a paper-towel-lined plate and let the oil cool before disposing of it safely.
Cook the onion and cod. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until soft but not browned; stir in the optional garlic for the last 30 seconds. Cut the desalted cod into pieces that will fit in the skillet and nestle them among the onions. Cover and cook gently, turning the pieces once if needed, until the thickest part reaches 145°F (63°C) on a food thermometer. This is the USDA FSIS safe minimum internal temperature for fish. Lift the cod onto a plate, remove any skin or bones, and flake it into large pieces.
Combine the potatoes and cod. Add the fried potatoes to the onion skillet and toss gently to coat them in the olive oil. Fold in the cod and black pepper, taking care not to mash the fish. Keep the pan over low heat while you prepare the eggs. Taste a small piece before adding salt; if the cod is still salty, there may be no need to season further.
Add and cook the eggs safely. Beat the eggs in a bowl just until the yolks and whites are blended. Pour them over the cod and potatoes. Stir slowly and continuously over low heat, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan, until the eggs are softly set and the center reaches 160°F (71°C) on a food thermometer. The USDA FSIS safe minimum for egg dishes is 160°F (71°C). Keep the heat gentle to avoid scorching the eggs, but do not stop before the temperature is reached.
Finish and serve. Take the skillet off the heat and fold in most of the parsley and olives. Taste for pepper and salt, then scatter the remaining parsley and olives over the top. Serve promptly while the potatoes still have some texture.

Tips

Check the salt before committing. Salt cod varies considerably. Cook and taste a small flake after soaking, rather than guessing from the raw fish. If it is too salty, soak it longer in fresh refrigerated water; adding salt later is easy, but removing excess salt from the finished dish is not.
Dry the potatoes well. Water on the matchsticks makes hot oil splatter and can keep the potatoes from browning. A salad spinner followed by a clean towel is useful, but make sure the potatoes are dry before they go near the oil.
Keep the heat controlled. Low heat gives the onions time to soften and the eggs time to cook without turning rubbery or sticking. Stir gently so the cod stays in visible flakes instead of breaking into a paste.
Use a practical substitute when needed. Fully desalted, ready-to-cook salt cod saves the 24-hour soak; follow its package directions and still taste for salt. If salt cod is unavailable, use fresh cod, but the dish will be milder and less traditionally savory. Cook fresh fish to 145°F (63°C), and season the mixture carefully.

Serving Suggestions

Serve Bacalhau à Brás hot as a main course, with a simple green salad or lightly dressed sliced tomatoes to balance the richness of the eggs and fried potatoes. A bowl of steamed greens, such as spinach or broccoli, also works well. The recipe is substantial on its own, so a small side is usually enough.

Put extra olives and chopped parsley on the table for anyone who wants a stronger briny or herbal finish. A wedge of lemon is an optional modern-style addition; use a little at a time so its acidity does not overwhelm the cod. If serving bread, choose a plain crusty loaf that can catch the soft egg and onion left on the plate.

Variations

Some cooks make the potato matchsticks from scratch, as this recipe does, while others use packaged shoestring potatoes to save time. Packaged potatoes are already crisp and often salted, so fold them in near the end and reduce or omit added salt. Their texture stays crunchier at first, while freshly fried potatoes become tender as they absorb the egg and olive oil.

You can leave out the garlic for a simpler onion flavor, or add a small pinch of smoked paprika with the black pepper for a gentle smoky note. For a milder version, replace some of the salt cod with fresh cod, keeping the total fish weight similar; the result will be less intense and may need a little more seasoning. Green olives can replace black olives, although they bring a sharper, more acidic flavor. Avoid adding too many extras, since the defining balance is cod, potato, onion, and egg.

Storage and Reheating

Do not leave the cooked dish at room temperature for more than 2 hours. Transfer leftovers to a shallow airtight container and refrigerate promptly; they keep for 3 to 4 days. The potatoes soften during storage, and the eggs become firmer, so leftovers will not have quite the same texture as a freshly cooked skillet. For best quality, make only as much as you expect to eat.

Reheat a portion in a covered skillet over low heat with a teaspoon of water, stirring gently until it is hot throughout. You can also use a microwave in short intervals, stirring between them. Leftovers should reach 165°F (74°C) when reheated, checked with a food thermometer. Avoid reheating the same portion repeatedly. Freezing is possible, but thawed potatoes and eggs can turn soft or grainy; if you freeze it, use an airtight container and aim to eat it within 1 to 2 months for better quality.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does bacalhau mean in English?

Bacalhau means “salt cod” in Portuguese. It generally refers to cod that has been preserved with salt and dried, rather than fresh cod. In a menu or recipe, the specific dish name usually tells you how that salt cod is prepared.

Is Bacalhau à Brás the same as salt cod and potatoes?

It is a particular salt-cod-and-potato preparation, not a name for every dish made with those ingredients. Bacalhau à Brás combines flaked salt cod with thin fried potatoes, onion, and eggs, then is commonly finished with olives and parsley. Other Portuguese bacalhau recipes use different ingredients and cooking methods.

Can I use fresh cod instead of salt cod?

Yes, but the flavor will be milder because fresh cod has not been salted and dried. Use boneless fresh cod, cook it to 145°F (63°C), and season the dish only after tasting. It is a useful substitute when salt cod is hard to find, though it will not taste exactly like the traditional salt-cod version.

How do I know when salt cod has soaked long enough?

After 24 hours of refrigerated soaking with regular water changes, cook a small flake and taste it. It should taste pleasantly seasoned, not harshly salty. If it is still too salty, return the remaining fish to fresh cold water in the refrigerator and continue soaking, checking again later. Thickness and curing methods affect the time required.

Can I make this with packaged shoestring potatoes?

Yes. Use about 4 cups (120 g) of plain shoestring potatoes in place of the fresh potatoes and frying oil. Since packaged potatoes are often salted, taste the dish before seasoning. Fold them into the softened onion and cod shortly before adding the eggs; they will save frying time but give a crunchier, less freshly cooked potato texture.

Can I prepare any part ahead?

You can desalt the cod a day ahead, keeping it covered in cold water in the refrigerator and changing the water as directed. You can also slice the onion and parsley earlier and refrigerate them separately. For the best texture, fry the potatoes and cook the eggs just before serving; once assembled, the potatoes soften and the eggs continue to firm up.

More recipes to cook

Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

Spotted an error? Tell us and we will correct it (corrections policy).