Sri Lankan black pork curry is a boldly spiced pork dish, slowly simmered with roasted spices, curry leaves, and goraka, a sour fruit that gives the gravy its distinctive tang. Its deep color comes from dark-roasted spices rather than a long list of ingredients, and the tender pork is especially good with rice or roti; regional and family versions vary in heat, sourness, and sauce.
Ingredients
- 2 lb (900 g) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral oil, such as canola
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped, about 1 cup (150 g)
- 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped, about 1½ tablespoons (15 g)
- 1 tablespoon (15 g) finely grated fresh ginger
- 10 fresh curry leaves, about 2 g, plus a few for serving if available
- 1½ teaspoons (9 g) fine salt, divided, plus more to taste
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) white vinegar
- 2 pieces dried goraka, about 5 g, rinsed; or 1 tablespoon (15 ml) tamarind concentrate
- 1 cup (240 ml) water, plus up to ½ cup (120 ml) more as needed
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) ground turmeric
- ½ teaspoon (1 g) freshly ground black pepper
- 1 small cinnamon stick, about 2 inches (5 cm)
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) fennel seeds
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) black mustard seeds
- 1 tablespoon (6 g) coriander seeds
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) black peppercorns
- 4 dried red chiles, about 2 g, stems removed; use 2 for milder curry
Instructions
- Prepare the roasted spice blend. Put the coriander seeds, peppercorns, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, and dried chiles in a dry skillet over medium-low heat. Toast for about 5–7 minutes, stirring or shaking often, until the spices smell fragrant and the coriander has turned a shade darker. They should be deeply toasted, not blackened or smoking. Tip them onto a plate immediately so the hot pan does not keep cooking them. Once cool, grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. This is the main source of the curry’s dark color and concentrated aroma.
- Season and marinate the pork. In a bowl, combine the pork with the vinegar, 1 teaspoon (6 g) of the salt, turmeric, black pepper, and half of the ground spice blend. Mix so the seasoning coats the pieces, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. This short rest seasons the meat without requiring an overnight marinade. If you need to get ahead, it can marinate for up to 8 hours in the refrigerator.
- Brown the pork. Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven or deep, sturdy pot over medium-high heat. Working in two batches so the pan does not crowd, brown the pork on several sides, about 4–5 minutes per batch. Transfer it to a plate as it browns. A little color on the meat adds flavor to the gravy, but avoid scorching the spice coating; lower the heat if the pan becomes very dark.
- Cook the aromatics. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring and scraping up browned bits, until softened and beginning to color. Stir in the garlic, ginger, curry leaves, and cinnamon stick, and cook for about 1 minute, just until fragrant. Add the remaining ground spice blend and stir for 30 seconds. If the spices stick, add a tablespoon of water rather than letting them burn.
- Simmer until tender. Return the pork and any juices to the pot. Add the goraka, the remaining ½ teaspoon (3 g) salt, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Stir, bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for about 80 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes and checking that the curry is bubbling gently rather than boiling hard. Add a splash of the extra water if the bottom looks dry or the sauce catches. Start checking the pork at 75 minutes; it should be fork-tender, and the exact time depends on the size of the cubes and the cut.
- Check the pork and finish the sauce. Check the thickest pork pieces with a food thermometer. USDA FSIS lists 145°F (63°C) followed by a 3-minute rest as the safe minimum for whole cuts of pork; for a braise, continue cooking until the meat is also tender. Transfer the pork to a warm plate for 3 minutes while you simmer the sauce uncovered for a few minutes if it is thinner than you like. Return the pork to the pot, stir, and taste. Add salt or a little more vinegar if it needs sharpening. The finished gravy should cling to the meat, with a pleasantly sour, peppery finish.
- Serve hot. Remove the cinnamon stick and any large pieces of goraka before serving if you prefer. Spoon the curry and plenty of its dark sauce over rice, or serve it in a bowl with roti for dipping.
Tips
- Toast gently and grind after cooling. Spices become bitter if they scorch. Keep the skillet at medium-low, stir frequently, and move the spices off the hot pan as soon as they smell fragrant. Grind them only once cool so they powder evenly rather than clumping.
- Look for goraka in Sri Lankan or South Asian grocery shops. Goraka is dried fruit with a tart, slightly smoky flavor and is traditional in many versions of this curry. Tamarind concentrate is a practical substitute, but it tastes fruitier and can be more sharply acidic; start with 2 teaspoons (10 ml), then add more to taste. Vinegar alone is not a full flavor match.
- Give the pork room to brown. Crowding traps steam and makes the meat pale. Brown it in batches, and do not worry if the pot has browned bits; those dissolve into the sauce as the aromatics cook.
- Control the heat with the chiles. Dried chiles vary in strength. Use two for a gentler curry, or remove the seeds before toasting. The black pepper and toasted spices still give the dish warmth even with fewer chiles.
Serving Suggestions
Serve this rich curry with steamed white rice, red rice, or string hoppers, which are soft rice-flour nests that soak up the sauce. Plain rice is useful when the curry is particularly hot or sour because it balances each bite. Roti, paratha, or another sturdy flatbread makes a satisfying alternative and can be used to scoop up the pork and gravy.
For a fuller meal, add a mild vegetable side such as coconut sambol, sautéed greens, or a simple cucumber salad. A small dish of lime wedges lets people adjust the brightness at the table, though the curry should already have a noticeable tang from goraka or tamarind. Keep accompaniments relatively simple so the roasted-spice flavor remains the focus.
Variations
Make it less hot: Use two dried chiles and remove their seeds before grinding. For a milder, rounder sauce, stir in ½ cup (120 ml) coconut milk during the final 10 minutes of simmering. Coconut milk is an optional variation, not required for this style; it softens the sharpness and makes the gravy creamier.
Use tamarind instead of goraka: Goraka is not stocked everywhere. If using tamarind concentrate, begin with 2 teaspoons (10 ml), taste after the pork is tender, and add more gradually. Tamarind can vary considerably in strength, so the full tablespoon listed as an equivalent is a guide rather than an amount to add without tasting.
Adjust the cut: Pork shoulder is forgiving and becomes tender during a long simmer. Boneless pork butt works similarly. Lean loin is less suitable because it can dry out before the sauce develops; if it is your only option, cut it larger and begin checking for tenderness much earlier.
Make the spice blend ahead: You can toast and grind the dry spices a few days in advance. Store the cooled powder in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dark cupboard. Its aroma is strongest when freshly ground, so avoid making a large batch to keep for months.
Storage and Reheating
Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking in a shallow, covered container. The curry keeps for 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Its flavor often becomes more rounded by the next day, and the sauce may thicken as it chills. Add a spoonful of water when reheating if the gravy has become too dense.
For longer storage, freeze the cooled curry in meal-size airtight containers for up to 3 months for best quality. Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator, or reheat from frozen gently in a covered saucepan with a splash of water, stirring as it loosens. Reheat leftovers until they reach 165°F (74°C), checking with a food thermometer. Avoid leaving the pot at room temperature for extended periods, and do not repeatedly cool and reheat the same portion.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is it called black pork curry?
The dark appearance comes mainly from the roasted spice blend, especially deeply toasted coriander and dried chiles. The goal is a dark, fragrant sauce, not burned spices or blackened meat. Different cooks roast their spices to different depths, so the final color can vary.
Can I make Sri Lankan black pork curry without goraka?
Yes. Tamarind concentrate is the most useful substitute and supplies the tartness the curry needs, though its flavor is fruitier and less smoky than goraka. Add it a little at a time and taste near the end. A small amount of vinegar can also sharpen the sauce, but it will not reproduce goraka’s particular flavor.
Can I prepare this curry the day before?
Yes. Cool and refrigerate it within 2 hours, then reheat it the next day until it reaches 165°F (74°C). The seasoning can taste more integrated after resting overnight. If the sauce has thickened, stir in a little water while reheating and adjust the salt and acidity before serving.
How do I know when the pork is done?
Use both a thermometer and a tenderness check. USDA FSIS gives 145°F (63°C) with a 3-minute rest as the safe minimum for whole cuts of pork, but shoulder usually needs a longer, gentle braise to become fork-tender. If it is still chewy, keep simmering and check again rather than turning up the heat sharply.
Can I cook it in a slow cooker?
You can, but brown the pork and cook the onion, aromatics, and spices in a skillet first for better flavor. Transfer everything to the slow cooker with the goraka and water, then cook on low until the pork is tender, usually about 6–8 hours depending on the appliance and cube size. The sauce may be thinner, so simmer it uncovered in a saucepan at the end if you want it more concentrated.
Is this curry supposed to contain coconut milk?
Not necessarily. Many versions rely on water and the pork’s juices for a concentrated, tangy sauce, while other household or regional recipes use coconut milk. This recipe keeps coconut milk optional so the roasted spices and goraka stay prominent; add it near the end if you prefer a softer, creamier curry.
Related
- Portuguese Bread Soup (Açorda) with Garlic and Cilantro
- Portuguese Steak and Egg Recipe with Garlic Wine Sauce
- Portuguese Steak Marinade Recipe with Garlic and Wine
More recipes to cook
Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
Spotted an error? Tell us and we will correct it (corrections policy).