Bubble and Squeak Potato Cakes, Crisp and Golden

Bubble and squeak potato cakes are a British way to turn leftover mashed potatoes and cooked cabbage into crisp, golden patties with soft centers. They make a satisfying breakfast, lunch, or side dish, and the mixture is flexible: use other leftover vegetables if cabbage is not on hand.

Ingredients

3 cups (675 g) cold mashed potatoes, preferably fairly firm
1½ cups (150 g) cooked cabbage, squeezed dry and finely chopped
¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour, plus 2 tablespoons (16 g) for dusting
1 large egg (about 50 g without shell), lightly beaten
2 tablespoons (30 ml) milk, only if the mixture seems dry
¾ teaspoon fine salt (about 4 g), or to taste, depending on how the potatoes were seasoned
¼ teaspoon black pepper (about 0.5 g)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral oil, such as canola
1 tablespoon (14 g) unsalted butter

Instructions

Prepare the vegetables. If using freshly cooked cabbage, let it cool, then squeeze out as much water as possible and chop it finely. Excess moisture can make the cakes loose and difficult to turn. Cold leftover mashed potatoes work best; if yours contain large chunks, mash them until mostly smooth.
Mix the cake mixture. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, cabbage, ¼ cup (35 g) flour, egg, salt, and pepper. Stir until evenly mixed. The mixture should hold together when pressed. If it looks crumbly, stir in milk 1 teaspoon (5 ml) at a time; if it feels sticky or slack, add a little more flour.
Shape the patties. Divide the mixture into eight equal portions, about ½ cup (120 ml) each. Shape each into a patty roughly ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Spread the remaining 2 tablespoons (16 g) flour on a plate and lightly dust both sides of each cake, shaking off excess.
Heat the pan. Set a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted and the pan is hot but not smoking, arrange four cakes in the skillet, leaving space between them. Cook in batches rather than crowding the pan.
Fry until crisp. Cook the cakes for 4–5 minutes on the first side, without moving them, until the undersides are deep golden and release fairly easily from the pan. Turn carefully with a thin spatula and cook for another 4–5 minutes. If they brown too quickly, lower the heat so the centers warm through without burning the crust.
Finish and serve. Transfer the first batch to a plate and keep it warm while you cook the rest, adding a little oil if the skillet is dry. Serve the cakes hot, while their edges are crisp. Because the mixture contains egg, USDA FSIS guidance is to cook egg dishes to a safe minimum internal temperature of 160°F (71°C), checked with a food thermometer; the centers should also be hot throughout.

Tips

Dry vegetables thoroughly. Water clinging to cabbage or other cooked vegetables is the most common reason patties fall apart. Squeeze them in a clean kitchen towel, then chop finely.
Start with cold potatoes. Warm, freshly mashed potatoes tend to be softer. If your mixture is hard to shape, chill it for 15–20 minutes before forming the cakes; this optional wait adds to the total time.
Use a gentle, steady heat. A pan that is too hot can brown the outside before the center is heated. Medium heat and a little patience make a better crust and a hot center.
Use leftovers safely. Keep cooked potatoes and cabbage refrigerated and use them within 3–4 days. Do not leave the finished cakes or other perishable food at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Serving Suggestions

Serve the cakes as a hearty breakfast with fried or poached eggs, grilled tomatoes, or baked beans. For lunch or supper, pair them with a green salad, roasted vegetables, or sausages. A spoonful of brown sauce, English mustard, applesauce, or tangy chutney makes a simple accompaniment; sour cream or plain yogurt with chopped chives is another easy option.

They also work well as a side for roast meat or a vegetarian main, especially alongside peas and a crisp salad. If serving them with eggs, cook the eggs until the whites and yolks are firm, or follow the appropriate safe cooking guidance for the style you choose.

Variations

Use different vegetables: Replace some or all of the cabbage with cooked Brussels sprouts, kale, carrots, peas, or finely chopped roasted vegetables. Keep the total cooked vegetables close to 1½ cups (150 g), and dry them well. The flavor and texture will vary with each vegetable.

Add onion or herbs: Fold in ¼ cup (40 g) finely chopped, cooked onion, or 2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped parsley or chives. Cook raw onion before adding it so it softens and does not make the mixture wet.

Make them without egg: Omit the egg and mix in 1–2 tablespoons (8–16 g) extra flour, adding just enough to help the cakes hold together. The result will be a little denser and more delicate to turn. You can also form smaller patties, which are easier to handle.

Add cheese: Stir in ½ cup (50 g) grated mature cheddar for a richer, savory cake. Cheese can make the crust brown faster, so keep the heat moderate.

Storage and Reheating

Cool cooked cakes promptly and refrigerate them in a covered container within 2 hours. They keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator. To freeze, arrange fully cooled cakes in a single layer until solid, then transfer them to a freezer-safe container with parchment between layers; use within 2 months for best quality. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating.

For the crispest result, reheat cakes in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat for about 3–4 minutes per side, until hot through. They can also be reheated on a baking sheet in a 375°F (190°C) oven for about 10–15 minutes, turning once. Reheat leftovers to 165°F (74°C), checked with a food thermometer. Avoid reheating them more than once.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my bubble and squeak cakes falling apart?
Most often, the vegetables are too wet or the potato mixture is too soft. Squeeze the cabbage dry, use cold potatoes, and add flour a little at a time until a shaped patty holds together. Handle the cakes gently when turning.

Can I make bubble and squeak cakes without leftover mashed potatoes?
Yes. Cook potatoes until tender, drain them very well, then mash and let them cool before mixing. Avoid adding much milk or butter: a firm mash is easier to shape and fry.

Can I prepare the mixture ahead?
Yes. Mix and shape the cakes, cover them, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours before frying. Keep them chilled until they go into the pan, and cook them through to the safe temperature for egg dishes.

Can I bake these instead of frying?
Yes, though the crust will be less evenly crisp. Arrange lightly oiled cakes on a lined baking sheet and bake at 425°F (220°C) for about 20–25 minutes, turning once, until golden and hot throughout. Check the center for 160°F (71°C) because the mixture contains egg.

What does “bubble and squeak” mean?
It is a traditional British name for a dish made from cooked potatoes and vegetables, commonly cabbage, fried together. The name is often said to refer to sounds the mixture can make as it cooks, and household versions vary.

Can I use fresh cabbage?
Yes. Cook it first by boiling, steaming, or sautéing until tender, then drain, cool, and squeeze it dry before chopping. Raw cabbage releases moisture and will not soften enough during the cakes’ short frying time.

More recipes to cook

Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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