Colombian Chicken and Potato Soup (Ajiaco)

Ajiaco is a beloved Colombian chicken and potato soup, especially associated with Bogotá, made with corn, several kinds of potatoes, and fragrant guascas. It simmers into a hearty, lightly thickened broth, then is served with cream, capers, and avocado so each person can finish the bowl to taste. Families and regions have their own versions; this recipe follows a practical Bogotá-style approach.

Ingredients

3 lb bone-in chicken thighs, skin on or off (1.36 kg). Thighs stay tender during simmering; a mix of thighs and drumsticks also works.
10 cups water (2.4 L), plus a little more if needed to keep the chicken and potatoes covered.
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and halved (about 5 oz / 150 g).
3 garlic cloves, lightly crushed (about 0.3 oz / 9 g).
2 tsp fine salt (10 g), plus more to taste.
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper (about 1 g).
2 ears fresh corn, cut crosswise into 3 pieces each (about 1 lb / 450 g total). If using frozen corn on the cob, use 6 pieces weighing about 1 lb (450 g).
1 lb papa criolla, Colombian yellow potatoes, fresh or frozen (450 g). Frozen papa criolla can go straight into the pot without thawing.
1½ lb Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (680 g).
1 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (450 g).
¼ cup dried guascas (about 4 g), the distinctive Colombian herb that gives ajiaco its characteristic aroma. If unavailable, see the substitution note in Tips.
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro (about 15 g), divided between the pot and serving.
1 cup heavy cream (240 ml), for serving.
½ cup capers, drained (about 70 g), for serving.
2 ripe avocados, halved, pitted, and sliced (about 10 oz / 300 g flesh), for serving.

Instructions

Prepare the chicken and vegetables. Pat the chicken dry. Peel and cut the Yukon Gold and russet potatoes, keeping the pieces roughly the same size so they soften evenly. Cut the corn cobs into pieces with a sturdy knife. If using frozen papa criolla, keep it frozen until needed; it will cook in the soup.
Start the broth. Put the chicken, water, onion, garlic, salt, and pepper in a large heavy pot, about 6 to 8 quarts (5.7 to 7.6 L). The chicken should be mostly covered. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, about 8 minutes, then lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Skim off any gray foam that gathers on top during the first few minutes; this helps keep the broth clear.
Simmer until the chicken is safe to remove. Cook gently for about 35 minutes, turning the pieces once if they are not fully submerged. Check the thickest part of a thigh with a food thermometer without touching the bone. USDA FSIS lists 165°F (74°C) as the safe minimum internal temperature for poultry; if a piece has not reached that temperature, keep simmering and check again. Transfer the cooked chicken to a plate and let it cool just enough to handle. Leave the broth in the pot.
Cook the corn and potatoes. Add the corn, papa criolla, Yukon Gold potatoes, and russets to the simmering broth. Bring it back to a gentle simmer, then cook uncovered for about 30 minutes. Stir carefully every few minutes, scraping the bottom so the potatoes do not catch. The papa criolla will soften and partly break down, while the other potatoes should be tender when pierced with a knife. If the broth gets too thick before the potatoes are cooked, add water ½ cup (120 ml) at a time.
Shred the chicken and finish the soup. When cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones, then pull the meat into bite-size pieces. Discard the onion halves and garlic cloves if they are still intact. Stir the chicken and guascas into the pot and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste the broth and adjust the salt and pepper. Stir in about half the cilantro, saving the rest for garnish. The soup should be substantial, with some potato pieces holding their shape and others thickening the broth.
Set out the garnishes. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, making sure each serving gets chicken, corn, and a good mix of potatoes. Offer cream, capers, avocado, and the remaining cilantro at the table. Diners can add the garnishes individually, rather than stirring them all into the pot.

Tips

Look for guascas if you can. Dried guascas are sold in some Latin American grocery stores and online. They are the herb most closely associated with ajiaco’s signature flavor. If you cannot find them, use 1 tsp dried oregano (about 1 g) as a practical stand-in, but expect a noticeably different, more oregano-forward soup; it is not an exact replacement.
Use different potatoes for different jobs. Papa criolla breaks down and thickens the broth, while Yukon Golds and russets provide a mix of creamy chunks and body. If papa criolla is unavailable, add another 1 lb (450 g) of small yellow potatoes; the soup will still be hearty but less naturally thick and less traditional in flavor.
Keep the pot at a gentle simmer. A hard boil can make the chicken fall apart before the potatoes are ready and can break the potatoes into a grainy mash. Stir gently, especially once the papa criolla begins to dissolve.
Season after the potatoes cook. Potatoes absorb salt as they simmer, and capers add saltiness at the table. Taste the finished broth before adding more salt, and let diners decide how much caper to use.

Serving Suggestions

Serve ajiaco hot in deep bowls, with one or two pieces of corn and plenty of chicken and potatoes in each portion. Put the cream, capers, sliced avocado, and extra cilantro in separate small dishes so guests can build their own combination. The cool, creamy avocado and tangy capers balance the rich, starchy soup, while a spoonful of cream softens the broth without hiding the guascas.

In Bogotá-style meals, ajiaco is often accompanied by white rice, either served alongside or added to the bowl. A simple green salad or sliced tomatoes can make a fresh counterpoint, but the soup is filling enough to serve on its own. Keep bread optional; there is already plenty of substance from the chicken, corn, and potatoes.

Variations

Use a whole chicken: Replace the thighs with one 3 to 3½ lb chicken (1.36 to 1.6 kg), cut into pieces, and simmer until every piece reaches 165°F (74°C). The cooking time can vary with the size of the pieces, so use a thermometer rather than relying only on the clock. Remove the pieces as they reach temperature, then shred the meat and continue with the potatoes.

Adjust the potato mix: If you cannot get all three varieties, combine yellow potatoes and russets in equal amounts. The result will be tasty, though it will lack the specific texture papa criolla brings. For a thicker soup, mash a few cooked potato chunks against the side of the pot and stir them in; avoid blending the entire soup, which removes the contrast between the potatoes and corn.

Make it milder or more aromatic: Guascas can be quite distinctive. If you are unfamiliar with the herb, begin with 3 tbsp dried guascas (about 3 g), taste after simmering, and add the remaining tablespoon if you want a stronger herbal note. Keep the capers and cream as table garnishes so everyone can season their own portion.

Storage and Reheating

Cool leftovers promptly and refrigerate them within 2 hours in shallow, covered containers. Ajiaco keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The potatoes will continue to absorb broth as they sit, so the soup may become thicker overnight; that is normal. If you expect to have leftovers, store the avocado, cream, and capers separately and add them only when serving.

Reheat only the amount you plan to eat in a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally and adding a splash of water if the broth has thickened. Heat leftovers to 165°F (74°C), checked with a food thermometer. You can also reheat individual portions in the microwave, stirring partway through and checking the temperature in more than one spot. For longer storage, freeze the soup in airtight containers for up to 2 months for best quality; potatoes may become softer after thawing. Thaw in the refrigerator and reheat to 165°F (74°C), adding fresh garnishes after warming.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is guascas, and can I leave it out?
Guascas is a dried Colombian herb traditionally used in ajiaco. Its flavor is distinctive, so the soup will still be nourishing and filling without it, but it will not have the characteristic herbal aroma. Dried oregano is a practical, different-tasting substitute; use a small amount rather than a one-for-one replacement.

Can I make ajiaco with chicken breast?
Yes. Bone-in breasts work well, though they can dry out if simmered too long. Check the thickest part for 165°F (74°C) and remove each breast as soon as it reaches that temperature. Boneless breasts cook faster, so add them later or monitor them closely, then return the shredded meat to the soup at the end.

Can I use only one kind of potato?
You can, but the texture will change. Yukon Gold potatoes make a creamy broth while keeping some shape; russets break down more and thicken it. Papa criolla is especially useful because it dissolves readily. If using one variety, consider mashing a few cooked pieces into the broth to add body.

Can I prepare ajiaco ahead?
Yes. Make the soup a day ahead, cool it promptly, and refrigerate it. The potatoes will absorb some liquid, so loosen the soup with water or broth as it reheats, then bring it to 165°F (74°C). Keep the cream, avocado, and capers separate until serving so their textures and flavors stay fresh.

Why does the soup look thick or cloudy?
Ajiaco is meant to have a body from potatoes, especially papa criolla, so a slightly thick or cloudy broth is expected rather than a defect. A vigorous boil and frequent rough stirring can break down the other potatoes too quickly. Use a gentle simmer and stir carefully if you want more distinct pieces.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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