Emulsifying Wax NF is a plant-based, non-ionic emulsifier used to bind oil and water into a stable, creamy lotion or cream. It is the backbone of countless DIY skincare formulas because it is easy to use, requires no neutralization (unlike beeswax and borax), and produces a smooth, non-greasy finish. This recipe walks you through making a basic, foolproof lotion with Emulsifying Wax NF, explaining why it works and how to get perfect results every time.
Ingredients
- 3.5 oz (100 g) distilled water
- 1.5 oz (42 g) liquid oil (e.g., sweet almond, jojoba, or fractionated coconut)
- 0.5 oz (14 g) Emulsifying Wax NF
- 0.25 oz (7 g) shea butter or cocoa butter (optional, for extra richness)
- 0.5 tsp (2.5 ml) preservative (e.g., liquid Germall Plus or phenoxyethanol, follow manufacturer’s usage rate)
- 5-10 drops essential oil (optional, for fragrance)
Instructions
- Sanitize all equipment (bowls, spatulas, bottles) with rubbing alcohol and let air dry.
- In a heat-safe glass measuring cup, combine the water and the Emulsifying Wax NF. In a separate heat-safe cup, combine the oil and shea butter (if using).
- Place both cups in a saucepan with 1 inch of water. Heat gently over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until the wax is completely melted and the water is hot (about 160°F / 71°C). Do not boil.
- Once both mixtures are at the same temperature (around 160°F / 71°C), slowly pour the oil mixture into the water mixture while stirring constantly with a whisk or immersion blender.
- Continue blending for 2-3 minutes until the mixture is uniformly white and creamy. The emulsion will form quickly.
- Let the lotion cool to below 120°F (49°C) before adding the preservative and essential oil. Stir thoroughly to incorporate.
- Pour into a clean pump bottle or jar. Let it cool completely, then cap and label.
Tips
- Weigh, don’t scoop: Emulsifying Wax NF is a dense flake; always use a digital scale for accuracy. A 1:3 ratio of wax to oil is a good starting point for a lotion; for a thicker cream, increase the wax to 25% of the oil weight.
- Heat both phases to the same temperature: If one is hotter than the other, the emulsion can separate. Use a thermometer to match temperatures.
- Don’t skip the preservative: Water-based products without preservative can grow mold and bacteria within days. Use a broad-spectrum preservative at the recommended rate (usually 0.5-1%).
- Blend gently: Vigorous blending can introduce air bubbles that make the lotion look frothy. Use a low-speed immersion blender or a whisk, and let the lotion sit for a few minutes after blending to de-gas.
Serving Suggestions
This lotion is a base for any body or hand cream. Use it as is, or layer it under sunscreen (though it does not contain SPF). It makes a great gift when poured into small glass jars with a label. For a lighter body milk, increase the water to 80% and reduce the oil to 20%.
Variations
- Calming lavender lotion: Add 10 drops of lavender essential oil and replace 10% of the water with aloe vera juice.
- Rich night cream: Replace half the liquid oil with 0.25 oz (7 g) of mango butter and add 0.5 tsp of vitamin E oil.
- Whipped body butter: After the lotion has cooled to room temperature, whip it with a hand mixer for 5 minutes to incorporate air and create a fluffy texture.
- Fragrance-free sensitive skin: Omit the essential oil and use a hypoallergenic preservative like phenoxyethanol.
Storage and Reheating
Store the finished lotion in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight. It will keep for 3-4 months if you use a preservative, or up to 1 month without one (refrigerate it). If the lotion separates or thickens over time, gently reheat it in a double boiler, whisk to re-emulsify, and let it cool again. Do not microwave the lotion, as it can create hot spots that break the emulsion.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “NF” stand for in Emulsifying Wax NF?
NF stands for National Formulary, a standard in the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) that verifies the ingredient’s purity and consistency. It is a widely recognized grade for cosmetic and pharmaceutical use.
Can I use beeswax instead of Emulsifying Wax NF?
No, beeswax is not a true emulsifier; it can only thicken an oil-and-water mixture temporarily and often requires borax to create a stable emulsion. Emulsifying Wax NF is a complete emulsifier that works on its own, giving a smoother and more stable result.
Why did my lotion separate?
Separation can happen if the oil and water phases were not heated to the same temperature, if the wax was not fully melted, or if you added the preservative too early (while the lotion was still hot). To fix it, reheat both the lotion and a small amount of extra wax (about 1% of the total weight) together, whisk, and cool.
Is Emulsifying Wax NF vegan?
Yes, most commercial Emulsifying Wax NF is made from cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60, both derived from plant sources like coconut or palm. Check the supplier’s label to confirm.
How much Emulsifying Wax NF should I use?
For a lotion, use 15-25% of the oil weight. For a cream, use 25-35%. For a body butter, you can go up to 40%. This recipe uses about 14% of the oil weight, which yields a light lotion.
Can I use tap water?
Tap water can contain minerals and bacteria that affect the lotion’s stability. Use distilled or deionized water to ensure the best shelf life and to avoid any interactions with the preservative.
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