French overseas territories—from the Caribbean islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique to Réunion in the Indian Ocean—boast vibrant, sun-drenched cuisines that blend French technique with African, Indian, and Creole influences. This article brings you a signature dish from each of three territories, offering a flavorful journey without leaving your kitchen. Each recipe is designed to be approachable, using widely available ingredients while honoring the spirit of the original.
Ingredients
For the Colombo Chicken (Martinique)
- 2 lbs (900 g) chicken thighs, bone-in, skin-on
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil
- 2 onions, chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon (15 g) Colombo spice blend (see Tips)
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground turmeric
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground coriander
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) ground cardamom
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon (1 g) cayenne pepper (adjust to taste)
- 2 cups (480 ml) chicken broth
- 1 can (14 oz / 400 g) diced tomatoes, undrained
- 2 cups (300 g) butternut squash, peeled and cubed
- 1 cup (150 g) pumpkin or sweet potato, cubed
- 1 cup (150 g) green beans, trimmed and halved
- 1/2 cup (75 g) raisins (optional)
- Salt to taste
For the Accras de Morue (Guadeloupe)
- 1/2 lb (225 g) salted cod (bacalhau), soaked and shredded
- 1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) salt
- 1/4 teaspoon (1 g) cayenne pepper
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/4 cup (15 g) fresh parsley, chopped
- 1/4 cup (15 g) fresh chives or green onion, chopped
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- Vegetable oil for frying
For the Rougail Saucisses (Réunion)
- 1 lb (450 g) smoked sausages (andouille or kielbasa), sliced
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon (15 g) fresh ginger, grated
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground turmeric
- 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) ground coriander
- 1/4 teaspoon (1 g) chili powder (adjust to taste)
- 2 large tomatoes, diced
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
- Salt to taste
Instructions
Colombo Chicken
- In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and season lightly with salt. Brown the chicken in batches, skin-side down first, until golden on all sides, about 5-6 minutes per batch. Remove and set aside.
- In the same pot, add the onions and sauté until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more.
- Stir in the Colombo spice blend, turmeric, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, black pepper, and cayenne. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute until fragrant.
- Pour in the chicken broth and diced tomatoes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Bring to a simmer.
- Return the chicken to the pot. Add the butternut squash, pumpkin (or sweet potato), and green beans. Stir to combine.
- Cover and simmer gently over low heat for 45-50 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the vegetables are tender. Stir occasionally.
- If using raisins, stir them in during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust salt. The chicken is safe when it reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C), the USDA FSIS safe minimum for poultry.
Accras de Morue
- Soak the salted cod in cold water for at least 12 hours, changing the water 3-4 times. Drain, then simmer in fresh water for 15 minutes. Drain, let cool, then flake the fish, removing any bones and skin.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and cayenne. Add the water and egg, stirring until smooth. The batter should be thick but drop easily from a spoon.
- Fold in the shredded cod, parsley, chives (or green onion), and garlic.
- Heat about 2 inches (5 cm) of vegetable oil in a deep skillet or pot to 350°F (175°C).
- Drop spoonfuls of the batter into the hot oil, frying in batches without crowding. Fry for 2-3 minutes per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Drain on paper towels.
Rougail Saucisses
- In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the sliced sausages and cook, stirring, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
- In the same skillet, add the onions and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook for 1 minute more.
- Stir in the turmeric, cumin, coriander, and chili powder. Cook for 1 minute.
- Add the diced tomatoes and water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens slightly.
- Return the sausages to the skillet. Simmer for another 10 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Season with salt to taste.
Tips
- Colombo spice blend: If you can’t find it pre-made, mix 1 teaspoon each of ground cumin, coriander, mustard seeds, and fenugreek, plus 1/2 teaspoon each of black pepper, turmeric, and dried ginger. This homemade version will be slightly more aromatic than the store-bought.
- Salted cod: The soaking step is crucial to remove excess salt. Taste a small piece after soaking; if it’s still too salty, soak longer. If you’re short on time, you can use fresh cod, but add 1/2 teaspoon of salt to the batter.
- Frying temperature: Use a thermometer to keep the oil at a steady 350°F (175°C). If the oil is too hot, the accras will brown too quickly and remain raw inside; if too cool, they’ll absorb oil and become greasy.
- Adjusting heat: The rougail and Colombo are meant to be mildly spicy. Start with less cayenne and chili powder, and add more at the end if you prefer more heat.
Serving Suggestions
Serve the Colombo chicken over steamed white rice or with crusty bread to soak up the flavorful sauce. Accras de morue are perfect as an appetizer or snack, served with a dipping sauce made from lime juice, hot pepper, and garlic. Rougail saucisses is traditionally paired with white rice and a side of lentils or beans. A simple green salad with a vinaigrette balances the richness of all three dishes.
Variations
- Vegetarian Colombo: Replace the chicken with 2 cups (300 g) of chickpeas and additional vegetables like carrots and zucchini. Cook for 20 minutes less.
- Accras with shrimp: Substitute the cod with 1/2 lb (225 g) of raw shrimp, finely chopped. Do not pre-cook; the shrimp will cook in the hot oil.
- Rougail with chicken: Use boneless chicken thighs instead of sausages. Cut into chunks and cook until browned, then proceed with the recipe, simmering for 20 minutes longer.
- Add coconut milk: For a creamier Colombo, stir in 1 cup (240 ml) of coconut milk during the last 15 minutes of cooking.
Storage and Reheating
All three dishes can be stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. The Colombo and rougail actually taste better the next day as the flavors meld. Reheat gently on the stovetop over medium-low heat, adding a splash of water or broth if needed to loosen the sauce. Accras are best enjoyed fresh, but leftovers can be reheated in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 5-7 minutes to restore crispness. For longer storage, freeze the Colombo and rougail for up to 3 months; thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use chicken breast instead of thighs? Yes, but breast meat can dry out during the long simmer. Reduce the cooking time to 30 minutes and check that the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C).
What is Colombo spice, and where can I find it? Colombo is a curry-like spice blend unique to the French Caribbean, featuring turmeric, cumin, coriander, and often mustard seeds and fenugreek. Look for it in Caribbean grocery stores or online. The homemade version in the Tips works well.
Is salted cod the same as fresh cod? No, salted cod is preserved with salt and must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking. Fresh cod has a more delicate texture and less salt. If using fresh cod, you don’t need to soak it, but you’ll need to add salt to the batter.
Can I bake the accras instead of frying? Yes, you can drop spoonfuls onto a baking sheet and bake at 400°F (200°C) for 12-15 minutes, flipping halfway. They won’t be as crispy but will be lighter.
What sausages are best for rougail? Smoked sausages like andouille or kielbasa work well. Avoid sweet Italian sausage, as it will change the flavor profile. If you can find Réunion-style smoked sausages, even better.
Can I make these dishes ahead of time? Absolutely. The Colombo and rougail are excellent made a day in advance. Accras are best fried just before serving, but the batter can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead and refrigerated.
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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