The Garlic Knot quilt pattern is a clever, modern take on traditional piecing that creates a beautiful interwoven, braided look—like a basket of warm garlic knots—using simple squares and rectangles. It works brilliantly because it relies on fat quarters and basic straight seams, making it an approachable project for confident beginners while still looking intricate and impressive. The design is also wonderfully forgiving, as the diagonal movement of the blocks hides minor seam mismatches, and the finished quilt has a lovely, dynamic flow.
Ingredients
- 12 fat quarters (approx. 18″ x 22″ / 46 cm x 56 cm each) in a mix of prints and solids—choose a cohesive color palette (e.g., warm reds, oranges, and creams for a cozy feel)
- 1 1/4 yards (1.1 m) background fabric (solid cream or low-volume print)
- 1/2 yard (0.5 m) binding fabric
- 3 1/2 yards (3.2 m) backing fabric (or 1 1/2 yards of 108″ wide backing)
- Batting: 60″ x 72″ (152 cm x 183 cm) piece of quilt batting
- Thread to match
- Rotary cutter, cutting mat, and acrylic ruler
- Quilting ruler (6″ x 24″ recommended)
- Seam ripper (just in case)
- Iron and pressing surface
Instructions
- Cut the fat quarters: From each fat quarter, cut one 8.5″ x 8.5″ square (that’s 12 squares total) and two 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles (that’s 24 rectangles total). Set aside the remaining fabric for scrappy binding or a pieced backing.
- Cut the background fabric: From the background fabric, cut 24 rectangles measuring 4.5″ x 8.5″. Also cut 12 squares measuring 4.5″ x 4.5″ for the cornerstones (these will be used in the sashing).
- Lay out the blocks: Arrange the 12 squares in a 4 x 3 grid (or 3 x 4, depending on your desired quilt orientation). This is your design layout. Play with the placement until you’re happy with the color distribution.
- Create the knot units: For each 8.5″ square, you’ll attach a 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle of the same fabric to the right side, and a 4.5″ x 8.5″ background rectangle to the left side. Sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance, then press seams toward the colored rectangle. Repeat for all 12 squares.
- Assemble the rows: Sew the blocks together in rows, matching the seams carefully. Each row will have 3 or 4 blocks (depending on your grid). Press seams in alternating directions (row 1 to the left, row 2 to the right, etc.) to help them nest.
- Add sashing: Cut 2.5″ strips of background fabric for sashing. For a 4 x 3 grid, you’ll need 5 strips of 2.5″ x 12.5″ (vertical sashing) and 4 strips of 2.5″ x 36.5″ (horizontal sashing). Sew the vertical sashing between blocks in each row, then sew the horizontal sashing between rows, adding the 4.5″ cornerstones at the intersections. Press seams toward the sashing.
- Quilt top is done: You now have a quilt top measuring approximately 48″ x 60″ (122 cm x 152 cm). Press the entire top flat.
- Layer the quilt: Lay the backing fabric right side down, place the batting on top, and then the quilt top right side up. Baste with safety pins or spray baste, starting from the center and working outward to avoid wrinkles.
- Quilt it: Quilt as desired—straight lines, stipple, or even just stitch in the ditch along the sashing. A walking foot helps with straight-line quilting. Trim the excess batting and backing, squaring up the corners.
- Bind the quilt: Cut 2.5″ strips from your binding fabric, join them on the diagonal, and press in half lengthwise. Attach to the front of the quilt with a 1/4″ seam, miter the corners, then fold to the back and hand-stitch or machine-stitch in place.
Tips
- Color placement: The Garlic Knot pattern shines when you have a mix of high-contrast fabrics. Place a dark square next to a light background rectangle to make the “knot” pop. If you use all medium tones, the effect can get muddy.
- Pressing matters: Press seams open or to one side consistently. The interlocking look depends on crisp, flat seams. Use a hot, dry iron and press (not iron back and forth) to avoid stretching bias edges.
- Fat quarter variety: If you don’t have 12 fat quarters, you can use 6 fat quarters and cut two squares from each, but you’ll need to be careful to not have identical squares adjacent. Or, use a layer cake (10″ squares) and cut them down.
- Common mistake: Don’t trim the blocks too short. The 8.5″ square plus the 4.5″ rectangles should yield a 12.5″ unfinished block. If you trim to 12″, you’ll lose the seam allowance and the points will be cut off.
Serving Suggestions
This quilt is perfect as a throw for a cozy reading nook, a picnic blanket (when backed with a durable canvas), or a decorative wall hanging. It also makes a fantastic housewarming gift—pair it with a set of matching pillowcases or a mug rug for a complete set. Since it’s a lap-sized quilt, it’s ideal for curling up on the couch.
Variations
- Size it up: To make a larger quilt, simply add more blocks. For a twin-size, use 20 blocks (5 x 4 grid) and adjust the sashing accordingly. For a queen, you’ll need about 30 blocks (6 x 5 grid).
- Scrappy background: Instead of a solid background, use a collection of low-volume prints in similar tones. This gives a more modern, scrappy look.
- Color-blocked: Use a single color for all the squares (e.g., all white) and a contrasting color for the rectangles to create a bold, graphic two-color quilt.
- Change the block size: For a more intricate look, cut the squares at 6.5″ and the rectangles at 3.5″ x 6.5″. The quilt will have more pieces and a tighter knot pattern, but you’ll need more fat quarters.
Storage and Reheating
This is a quilt, not a casserole, so “storage” means how to keep it clean and fresh. Store a finished quilt folded in a cotton pillowcase or on a shelf away from direct sunlight to prevent fading. If it gets dusty, you can machine wash it on a gentle cycle with cold water and mild detergent, then tumble dry on low or lay flat to dry. For long-term storage, avoid plastic bins—use breathable fabric bags. Quilts don’t need reheating, but if you’re gifting it, a nice ribbon and a card are the best way to “serve” it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many fat quarters do I need for a throw-sized quilt? This pattern uses 12 fat quarters for the colored squares and rectangles. That’s enough for a 48″ x 60″ throw. If you want a larger throw, you’ll need more—about 16 for a 60″ x 60″ square throw.
Can I use a layer cake instead of fat quarters? Yes! A layer cake has 10″ squares. You can cut each 10″ square into one 8.5″ square and one 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle (you’ll have a bit of leftover). You’ll need 12 layer cake squares, but since layer cakes come in 42 pieces, you’ll have plenty for a scrappy binding or a pieced backing.
What is the best way to press seams in this pattern? Press seams toward the colored rectangle in step 4, then press row seams in alternating directions. This reduces bulk and helps the seams nest together perfectly, giving you crisp intersections.
Can I make this quilt entirely with a sewing machine? Absolutely. The piecing is all straight seams, and you can machine-quilt it with a walking foot or even a free-motion foot. The binding can also be machine-stitched on both sides if you prefer.
Why does my block look off? The most common issue is that the 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles are not exactly 4.5″ wide. If you cut them slightly narrower, the block won’t square up. Always measure twice and cut once, and check your seam allowance with a test block first.
Can I use a charm pack? Charm packs are 5″ squares, which are too small for this pattern as written. You could piece the squares from charms, but that would add a lot of extra seams. Better to stick with fat quarters or layer cakes.
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