How to Make a Felted Button: Step-by-Step Guide

Updated November 13, 2026

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Felted buttons are handmade fasteners created by agitating wool fibers with hot, soapy water until they mat and shrink into a dense, durable disc. They add a cozy, artisanal touch to cardigans, bags, and hair accessories, and you can customize them with different colors and embellishments. This guide walks you through wet felting a button from scratch, using simple supplies you likely already have.

What You’ll Need

  • Wool roving or wool yarn (100% wool, not superwash) – about 3–5 grams per button
  • Hot water (not boiling)
  • Liquid dish soap or olive oil soap
  • A small bowl or basin
  • Bubble wrap or a bamboo sushi mat
  • A towel
  • A needle and thread (for sewing on the button)
  • Optional: a button mold or a small plastic lid for shaping
  • Optional: a felting needle for details

Step-by-Step

  1. Prepare your wool. If using roving, pull off a small handful and gently tease it apart to loosen the fibers. If using yarn, cut a piece about 12 inches (30 cm) long and unravel it into individual strands. You want enough to form a loose ball about 1.5 inches (4 cm) in diameter – it will shrink significantly.
  2. Create the core. Roll the wool into a tight, rough ball. Don’t worry about perfection; the felting process will even it out. If you have a button mold, place the wool ball inside it. If not, you’ll shape it by hand.
  3. Wet the wool. Fill your bowl with hot water and add a few drops of dish soap. Submerge the wool ball completely, then remove it and gently squeeze out excess water. The wool should be wet but not dripping.
  4. Begin rubbing. Place the wet wool ball on the bubble wrap or sushi mat. Using your palms, gently roll and press the ball back and forth. Start with light pressure – heavy pressure too early can cause uneven felting. Continue for about 2 minutes.
  5. Add more soap and water. If the wool starts to dry or stick, add a little more soapy water. Keep the wool lubricated. You’ll notice the ball becoming firmer and smaller as the fibers lock together.
  6. Shape the button. Once the ball has shrunk to about half its original size, flatten it slightly between your palms to form a disc. If you have a mold, press the wool into it. If not, use your thumbs to shape the edges into a round, flat button.
  7. Continue felting. Rub the disc in a circular motion on the bubble wrap for another 3–5 minutes. Turn it over frequently to ensure even felting. The button should feel dense and hold its shape when you stop.
  8. Rinse and dry. Rinse the button in cool water to remove all soap. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Roll it in a towel to remove more moisture, then let it air dry completely – usually 24 hours.
  9. Make buttonholes. Once dry, use a needle and thread to sew two or four small stitches through the center of the button, creating a shank or holes. Alternatively, you can use a sharp awl to poke holes while the wool is still damp.

Common Mistakes

  • Using superwash wool: Superwash wool is treated to resist felting, so it won’t work. Always check the label for 100% wool, non-superwash.
  • Rubbing too hard too soon: Aggressive rubbing before the fibers have started to mesh can cause the button to become misshapen or develop weak spots.
  • Not enough soap: Soap reduces friction and helps the fibers slide and lock. Without it, the wool may felt unevenly or not at all.
  • Over-shrinking: If you keep felting for too long, the button can become too small and hard. Stop when it’s firm but still slightly soft to the touch.

Tips

  • Use a mold for uniformity: A small plastic lid or a button-shaped cookie cutter can help you achieve a consistent shape.
  • Add color: Before felting, you can layer different colors of roving to create a marbled effect.
  • Embellish: After the button is dry, you can embroider over it or attach beads with a needle and thread.
  • Make a shank button: Instead of holes, you can sew a small loop of thread on the back of the button to create a shank, which is easier for thicker fabrics.
  • Work in batches: Make several buttons at once to save time and soapy water.

Troubleshooting

  • Button is too soft or falls apart: It hasn’t felted enough. Return it to the soapy water and rub for a few more minutes until it firms up.
  • Button is misshapen: If it’s still wet, you can reshape it by hand and let it dry under a heavy book. If it’s already dry, you can re-wet it and try to reshape, but it’s often easier to start over.
  • Wool won’t felt: Check that you’re using real wool and not a blend. Also, make sure the water is hot enough – if it’s lukewarm, the fibers won’t lock.
  • Button is too large: If you haven’t dried it yet, continue felting to shrink it more. If it’s already dry, you can’t shrink it further, so use it for a different project or as a decorative patch.
  • Holes are too small: Use a thicker needle or a small crochet hook to widen the holes while the wool is still damp.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use acrylic yarn?

No, acrylic yarn won’t felt because it’s a synthetic fiber. You need animal fibers like wool, alpaca, or mohair.

How long does it take to make one button?

Active felting time is about 10–15 minutes, plus drying time of 24 hours.

Can I felt a button in the washing machine?

Yes, you can place the wool ball in a small mesh bag and run it through a hot wash cycle, but this is less controlled and may produce a more irregular shape.

How do I make a button with a shank?

Instead of making holes, sew a few tight stitches through the center of the button, then wrap the thread around the stitches several times to form a small loop. Secure with a knot.

Can I use felted buttons in the laundry?

Yes, they are machine-washable, but to prevent damage, turn the garment inside out and use a gentle cycle. They may shrink slightly with repeated washing.

What if I don’t have bubble wrap?

You can use a bamboo sushi mat, a textured placemat, or even your hands – just rub the wool between your palms.

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