How to Make a Hoop Skirt: Step-by-Step Guide

This guide shows you how to make a hoop skirt from scratch, a structured undergarment that creates a bell-shaped silhouette under dresses and skirts. You’ll learn to assemble a hoop skirt using fabric, boning (or flexible tubing), and a waistband, with all the steps needed to achieve a classic Victorian or mid-century look. Before you start, gather your materials and prepare a workspace with enough room to lay out fabric.

What You’ll Need

2-3 yards (1.8-2.7 m) of lightweight cotton or polyester fabric (like broadcloth or tulle)
1/2 inch (12 mm) wide hoop boning or flexible plastic tubing (enough to wrap around your skirt at each hoop level, plus extra)
1 inch (2.5 cm) wide waistband elastic (length = your waist measurement minus 2 inches / 5 cm)
Thread matching your fabric
Fabric scissors
Measuring tape
Pins
Sewing machine (or needle and thread for hand sewing)
Iron and ironing board
Safety pin (for threading elastic)
Marker or chalk

Step-by-Step

Measure and plan your hoops. Measure around your waist and decide how long you want the skirt (usually from waist to floor or mid-calf). Write down your waist and desired length. Plan to place 4-6 hoops, starting about 4 inches (10 cm) below the waist and spacing them 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart, with the last hoop about 2 inches (5 cm) from the hem.
Cut the fabric panels. For a full skirt, cut 4-6 rectangular panels. Each panel should be as long as your desired skirt length plus 2 inches (5 cm) for seams and hem. The width of each panel should be about 1/4 of your widest hip measurement plus 2 inches (5 cm) for seam allowance. For example, if your hips are 36 inches (91 cm), each panel should be about 11 inches (28 cm) wide. You’ll sew these panels together to form a large tube.
Sew the panels together. Place two panels right sides together and sew along one long edge with a 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Repeat for all panels to create a single large rectangle, then sew the two end edges together to form a tube. Press all seams open.
Create the waistband casing. Fold the top edge of the tube down 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the inside, press, then fold again 1 inch (2.5 cm) and press. Sew along the bottom fold to create a casing, leaving a 2-inch (5 cm) opening to insert elastic later.
Insert the elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing. When the elastic emerges, overlap the ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and sew them together securely. Close the opening with a small hand stitch or machine stitch.
Mark hoop lines. Try on the skirt (or place it on a dress form) and mark the position of each hoop with chalk or pins. Use your planned spacing, adjusting as needed for your body shape. Remove the skirt and lay it flat.
Create hoop casings. For each marked line, fold the fabric over the hoop boning to create a casing. To do this, cut strips of fabric (bias tape or straight strips) about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and long enough to wrap around the skirt. Pin each strip over the marked line, right side of strip against the right side of the skirt, and sew along both long edges, leaving the ends open. Turn the casing right side out, or simply fold the strip over the boning and sew. Alternatively, you can fold the skirt fabric itself over the boning if you have enough allowance, but using separate strips is easier.
Insert the boning. Cut the hoop boning to the circumference of the skirt at each hoop line, plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) for overlap. Insert the boning into each casing. Overlap the ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and secure them with strong tape or by sewing a small fabric sleeve over the join. Make sure the boning lies flat and doesn’t poke out.
Hem the bottom. Fold the bottom edge of the skirt up 1/2 inch (1.3 cm), press, then fold again 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) and press. Sew the hem in place.
Press and finish. Press the entire skirt, especially the casings, to give it a crisp shape. Try it on and adjust the hoop positions if any are too high or low. Your hoop skirt is ready to wear under a dress.

Common Mistakes

Hoops too close together: If hoops are less than 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart, the skirt can look lumpy. Keep spacing even and at least 4 inches (10 cm) apart.
Boning too long: If the boning is too long, it will poke out of the casing. Always measure the circumference carefully and trim to size.
Waistband too tight: Elastic that is too short will dig into your waist. Use your actual waist measurement minus 2 inches (5 cm) for a comfortable fit.
Fabric too stiff: Using heavy fabric makes the skirt stand out too much and hard to sit in. Choose a light, breathable fabric.

Tips

Use a walking foot on your sewing machine to handle multiple layers of fabric and boning more easily.
If you don’t have hoop boning, you can use plastic curtain rod or flexible PVC tubing from a hardware store, but make sure it’s smooth and won’t snag fabric.
For a softer silhouette, use fewer hoops (3-4) and space them wider apart.
To make the skirt easier to store, use boning that can be removed, and store it flat or rolled.

Troubleshooting

Hoops show through the outer dress: This happens if the hoops are too large or the fabric is too thin. Add a layer of tulle or a petticoat over the hoop skirt to smooth the line, or reduce the hoop circumference slightly.
Skirt twists or spins: If the hoops twist, it’s usually because the casings are too loose. Sew the casings with a snug fit, and consider adding a few stitches at the side seams to anchor the boning in place.
Waistband slides down: The elastic may be too loose. Take in the elastic by overlapping the ends more, or add a drawstring for extra adjustment.
Boning pokes through the fabric: This is often due to sharp ends. Cover the ends of the boning with a small piece of duct tape or a fabric cap before inserting into the casing.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many hoops do I need? Typically 4-6 hoops depending on the desired fullness and your height. More hoops create a rounder shape, fewer create a softer A-line.

Can I use a pre-made hoop skirt instead? Yes, you can buy hoop skirts online or in costume shops, but making your own allows for a custom fit and choice of fabric.

What is the best fabric for a hoop skirt? Lightweight cotton, tulle, or organza work best because they are breathable and don’t add bulk. Avoid heavy denim or canvas.

How do I sit down in a hoop skirt? When sitting, the hoops will tilt up in the front. This is normal; you can gather the skirt slightly to the sides as you sit, and the hoops will flatten temporarily.

Can I wash a hoop skirt? It’s best to spot clean or hand wash gently, then air dry. Remove the boning before washing to prevent it from bending or breaking.

How long does it take to make? For a beginner, expect 3-4 hours. Experienced sewists can finish in 2 hours.

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