How to Make a LEGO Crocodile with a Simple Moving Jaw

Make a small LEGO crocodile with a long snout, four legs, a tapered tail, and a jaw you can open and close. You can build it from common bricks and plates; a pair of matching hinge pieces makes the mouth movable, while a fixed-jaw option works if you do not have hinges.

What You’ll Need

The quantities below are a flexible guide, not a set inventory. Standard LEGO bricks vary by shape and availability, so substitute pieces of similar size and keep the model balanced. Green or dark green makes a classic crocodile, but any color works.

About 20–30 green bricks and plates in assorted sizes, including several 2-stud-wide pieces and plates around 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 studs.
Four small bricks or short plate stacks for the legs, plus four flat plates or tiles to make broad feet.
Two matching hinge elements, such as a compatible pair of LEGO hinge plates, if you want a moving jaw. Check that their connection type matches before building.
Two small round or single-stud pieces for eyes. Use printed eyes, round plates, or contrasting colors.
A few small black, white, or tan pieces for nostrils and teeth, if available.
A flat building surface and a selection area where you can sort pieces by size and color.

Do not worry if your pieces do not match these exact shapes. For example, two 2 x 2 bricks can replace one 2 x 4 brick if you overlap the seams with the next layer. Avoid relying on a single smooth tile as a structural connection: the main sections need studs or compatible clips to hold together.

Step-by-Step

Choose the direction and rough proportions. Set the crocodile facing forward, with the tail behind it. Plan for a body about 6 studs long and 4 studs wide, a head about 4 studs long and 4 studs wide, and a tail extending another 5–7 studs. These are flexible proportions rather than a required scale. The snout should be visibly longer than it is wide, and the tail should narrow toward its tip. Lay the parts out first so you can compare the sections before attaching them.
Make a strong body base. Start with a 2 x 6 plate, or join smaller plates into a rectangle about 6 studs long by 4 studs wide. Add a second layer of bricks or plates on top, staggering the joints so that no long seam continues through both layers. Keep the top fairly flat. Leave the front end clear for the head and the rear end clear for the tail. Press down gently across the base to make sure every piece is fully connected.
Add the four legs and feet. Make each leg from a short stack about 1–2 bricks tall. Use the same size pieces on each side so the crocodile sits level. Attach the front pair near the front half of the body and the back pair near the rear half, with one leg on either side at each position. Point each foot outward slightly if your pieces allow it. Add a flat 1 x 2 plate or a small tile at the bottom of each leg to broaden the footprint. Turn the model upright on the table: if it rocks, reposition the feet until all four touch the surface.
Build the lower jaw. Make a flat, sturdy platform about 2 studs wide and 3–4 studs long from plates. Add a small raised section at the back where the jaw will meet the head. This is the lower half of the mouth, so keep the front edge straight and leave room for small teeth later. Attach the platform to the front of the body, centered between the legs. It should meet the body securely rather than hang from one stud or one delicate clip. If it droops, add a plate underneath or shorten the jaw by one stud.
Construct the upper head and snout. Build a second section about 4 studs wide and 3–4 studs long. Use a brick or layered plates at the back for a solid skull, then extend the front with a narrower snout about 2–3 studs wide. Build the snout from overlapping pieces so it does not split at a single joint. A slight step down toward the nose helps make the shape recognizable. Keep the underside mostly flat so you can attach the jaw hinge. Add two small nostril pieces near the front end, spaced evenly across the snout.
Join the jaws with hinges. Attach one side of the matching hinge pair to the back of the upper head and the other side to the raised rear of the lower jaw. Center the connection and use two hinges if the design has room; a pair helps keep the mouth from twisting sideways. Before pressing the parts together firmly, check that the hinge bends in the direction you want and that the upper snout clears the lower jaw when opened. Open and close it gently several times. If you do not have compatible hinges, attach the upper head directly to the lower jaw with plates for a fixed-mouth crocodile. A secure fixed connection is better than a loose improvised hinge.
Shape the tail. Attach the thick end of the tail to the rear of the body. Start at about 3–4 studs wide, then narrow it in stages: for example, use a short 3-stud-wide section, a 2-stud-wide section, and a final 1-stud-wide tip. Overlap each section by at least 2 studs where possible, or bridge the join with a plate across the top. Keep the tail low and close to the building surface so it does not lift the body or make the model tip. A gentle bend can look natural, but each connection should still feel firm.
Add eyes, teeth, and texture. Place one eye on each side near the back of the head, above the jaw hinge. Use matching pieces and positions to keep the face symmetrical. Add a few small white or tan pieces along the edge of the lower jaw as teeth; leave gaps between them so the mouth can still close. You can add short green plates along the back for raised scales, but keep them low enough that the crocodile remains stable. Details are optional: a clear head shape and tapered tail matter more than lots of decoration.
Check the build and adjust it. Set the crocodile on a flat surface and press lightly on the body, head, and tail. The body should not twist, the feet should all meet the surface, and the tail should stay attached when you lift the model carefully by the body. Open the mouth to a modest angle rather than forcing the hinge wide. If any section comes apart, reinforce it with a plate that spans the seam, or rebuild that section with a broader connection before adding more details.

Common Mistakes

Making the tail too heavy or high. A tall, heavy tail can pull the rear off the ground or make the crocodile topple. Keep it low, build it in short narrowing sections, and check the model’s balance before adding decorative plates.

Using a narrow connection between major sections. One stud may hold a small detail, but it is usually not enough for a head or tail that will be handled. Overlap parts with plates or use a wider base so the connection has several studs engaged.

Putting the hinge in backward. Some hinge types only bend freely in one direction, and others can be attached in more than one orientation. Test the connection before building around it. If the jaw binds, remove the hinge and reverse or reposition it rather than forcing it.

Making the legs uneven. Different leg heights can leave a foot floating and make the body rock. Match the stacks side to side, then test on a level surface before adding the head and tail.

Adding too many teeth or decorations. Large teeth can stop the mouth from closing, while tall back details can make the model unstable. Add a few small details at a time and check that the jaws still move freely.

Tips

Sort bricks by width before starting. It is easier to make matching legs and a centered head when you can compare identical pieces.
Use color changes to define the crocodile’s shape: a darker back, lighter underside, or contrasting eyes can make the sections easier to read without changing the structure.
Build the body and tail with staggered seams. When the end of one brick meets another, cover that joint with a plate or brick in the next layer to reduce weak points.
Keep the movable mouth light. A heavy upper jaw can strain small hinges, so use plates and small bricks for the snout rather than piling on large pieces.
For a younger builder, prepare a small selection of compatible pieces and build one section at a time. The steps still work with color substitutions, and a fixed mouth avoids the challenge of finding a suitable hinge.
Take a quick top-down look as you build. The head, body, and tail should line up along a clear centerline, while the legs should mirror each other on the left and right.

Troubleshooting

The crocodile will not stand evenly: Put it on a hard, flat surface and check which foot is not touching. Add a thin plate beneath that foot or adjust the leg connection by one plate thickness. Also check whether the tail is pressing against the surface and lifting the body.

The head or tail keeps detaching: Remove the loose section and inspect how many studs connect it to the body. Broaden the attachment, add a plate that bridges the join, or shorten the section so it puts less leverage on the connection. Avoid lifting the model by the head or tail.

The jaw does not open smoothly: First check that the hinge halves are compatible and aligned. Look for teeth, plates, or the body catching against the moving section. Remove anything that blocks the hinge, then test its movement before rebuilding the surrounding head. If the hinge itself is too stiff or loose, switch to a fixed jaw.

The snout looks blunt rather than crocodile-like: Narrow the front by one stud on each side, or add a short narrower section at the tip. Keep the nostrils near the nose and the eyes farther back. A long, low snout usually reads more clearly than a tall, square head.

The model bends in the middle: Reinforce the body with another plate or brick layer and stagger the joints. If the tail is pulling the body down, make it shorter or lighter. Recheck the build after each adjustment instead of adding more parts all at once.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I build a LEGO crocodile without a hinge?

Yes. Attach the upper head to the lower jaw with plates to make a fixed mouth. You can still give the crocodile a strong silhouette with a long snout, visible teeth, four legs, and a tapering tail.

What if I do not have green bricks?

Use any colors you have. Green is a familiar crocodile color, but brown, gray, blue, or mixed colors can work. Keep the head, body, and tail visually connected by repeating at least one color across all three sections.

How can I make the crocodile larger?

Increase the body length and width, then scale up the head and tail to match. Add a second layer of plates under the body and use broader leg connections. Larger sections need wider joins; simply extending a narrow tail or snout can make it weak.

How do I make it look more realistic?

Keep the body low, make the snout long and broad, and taper the tail gradually. Small eyes placed high on the head, short legs set out to the sides, and a few subtle back ridges add recognizable details without making the build bulky.

Is this an official LEGO set design?

No. This is a general homemade building guide using common LEGO-compatible building elements. Exact pieces and colors depend on what you have, so the suggested dimensions are a starting point rather than a required parts list.

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