How to Make Your Own Goat Feed

Updated November 7, 2026

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How to Make Your Own Goat Feed

Making your own goat feed lets you control exactly what goes into your animals and can save money if you buy grains in bulk. A basic goat ration combines a coarse grain mix with minerals, and you can adjust it for pregnant, lactating, or growing goats. You will need a clean, dry space, a large container or tub for mixing, and a feed scoop. This guide covers a balanced 16% protein maintenance ration for adult goats, plus how to adjust it for different life stages.

What You’ll Need

  • Whole or cracked corn (field corn, not popcorn)
  • Whole oats or crimped oats
  • Soybean meal (44% or 48% protein) or another high-protein supplement like roasted soybeans or sunflower meal
  • Wheat bran or rice bran (optional, for palatability and fiber)
  • Calf manna or a commercial goat mineral premix (with selenium, copper, zinc, and salt)
  • Dicalcium phosphate or plain limestone flour (calcium source, only if your mineral does not include it)
  • Blackstrap molasses (optional, about 2–3% of the mix, to reduce dust and improve taste)
  • A large plastic tub, wheelbarrow, or cement mixer for combining
  • A sturdy scoop or shovel for mixing
  • Airtight storage bins or heavy-duty plastic trash cans with lids
  • Kitchen scale or a simple measuring cup for small batches

Step-by-Step

  1. Decide on your target protein percentage. Adult maintenance goats need about 12–14% protein. Lactating does need 14–16%. Growing kids need 16–18%. This recipe is a 16% maintenance-to-lactation mix; if your goats are dry and idle, feed it in smaller amounts or add more oats and less soybean meal.
  2. Weigh out your base grains. For a 100 lb (45 kg) batch, use: 50 lb (23 kg) whole or cracked corn, 30 lb (14 kg) whole oats, and 10 lb (4.5 kg) wheat bran. If you do not have a large scale, use a 5-gallon bucket as a measure: roughly 3 buckets of corn, 2 buckets of oats, and 1 bucket of bran.
  3. Add the protein supplement. Add 8 lb (3.6 kg) of soybean meal to the base. This brings the mix to approximately 16% crude protein. If you use a higher-protein soybean meal (48%), you can reduce this to 7 lb (3.2 kg). For a lower-protein maintenance mix, cut the soybean meal to 5 lb (2.3 kg) and add 3 lb (1.4 kg) more oats.
  4. Mix in the minerals. Add 2 lb (0.9 kg) of a goat-specific mineral premix. Goat minerals must contain copper, because sheep minerals do not. If your mineral does not include calcium, add 1 lb (0.45 kg) of limestone flour or dicalcium phosphate. Do not add extra calcium if your mineral already has it, as too much can cause urinary stones in bucks and wethers.
  5. Optional: add molasses. Pour 2–3 lb (0.9–1.4 kg) of blackstrap molasses over the dry mix. This helps bind fine particles and makes the feed more palatable. Mix thoroughly so there are no sticky clumps.
  6. Mix everything thoroughly. Use a shovel or your hands (with gloves) to turn the mix over and over until the color is uniform and you cannot see streaks of soybean meal or mineral. A clean cement mixer on low speed works well for larger batches.
  7. Store immediately. Transfer the finished feed into clean, dry, rodent-proof bins with tight lids. Label the bin with the date and the protein percentage. Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
  8. Feed correctly. Adult goats need about 2–4 lb (0.9–1.8 kg) of grain per day, split into two feedings, depending on size, stage, and forage quality. Always provide free-choice hay or pasture and fresh, clean water. Introduce the new feed gradually over 7–10 days, mixing increasing amounts with the old feed.

Common Mistakes

  • Using sheep mineral. Sheep minerals lack copper, and goats need copper for healthy coats and immune function. Always buy a mineral labeled specifically for goats.
  • Grinding the grain too fine. Goats are ruminants and need coarse particles for proper rumen function. Finely ground feed can cause bloat and acidosis. Keep corn cracked, not powdered, and use whole oats.
  • Skipping the gradual transition. Sudden feed changes upset the rumen bacteria and can cause diarrhea, off-feed, or even laminitis. Always transition over a week or more.
  • Adding too much molasses. Molasses is high in sugar. More than 5% of the mix can cause loose stools and weight gain. Stick to 2–3%.
  • Storing in open bags. Humidity and pests ruin homemade feed quickly. Moisture can lead to mold, which is toxic to goats. Always use sealed bins.

Tips

  • Start small. Make a 25 lb (11 kg) batch first to see how your goats like it and how it holds up in your storage conditions before committing to 100 lb (45 kg).
  • Keep records. Write down the exact weights of each ingredient and the date. If your goats have any health issue, you can review exactly what they ate.
  • Adjust for the season. In cold weather, goats need more energy, so you can increase the corn proportion slightly. In hot weather, reduce corn and increase oats to lower energy density.
  • Use a feed test. If you have access to a forage test for your hay, you can balance the grain mix to complement it. High-protein hay means you need less soybean meal.
  • Consider a commercial premix. A complete goat mineral premix already contains the right calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. If you are unsure, use that and skip the limestone or dicalcium phosphate entirely.

Troubleshooting

  • Goats refuse the feed. If they turn up their noses, the molasses may be too little or too much. Try adding a handful of dried molasses or a small amount of a commercial sweet feed to entice them. Also check that the corn is not rancid; old corn has a bitter taste.
  • Loose stools after switching. This usually means you transitioned too fast or the protein is too high. Back off to the old feed for a few days, then start over with a slower transition. Also check that you did not overdo the molasses.
  • Feed gets moldy. Discard any moldy feed immediately. Mold can cause listeriosis or mycotoxin poisoning. Improve storage: use sealed plastic bins, keep them off the ground, and do not store more than a month’s supply.
  • Goats are gaining too much fat. Reduce the amount of grain you feed, not the recipe itself. Overweight goats are prone to pregnancy toxemia and urinary stones. Cut the daily grain by a quarter and increase hay.
  • Goats are losing weight on the mix. Increase the feeding amount or bump the corn and soybean meal slightly. If they are lactating, they may need more protein—raise the soybean meal to 10 lb (4.5 kg) per 100 lb (45 kg) batch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I feed this mix to sheep too?
No. This mix is formulated for goats and contains goat minerals with copper. Sheep are sensitive to copper and can die from copper toxicity. Keep separate feed for sheep.

How long does homemade goat feed last?
Stored in a cool, dry, sealed container, it stays fresh for about 4–6 weeks. Whole grains last longer than cracked ones because cracked corn goes rancid faster. Make smaller batches if you cannot use it within a month.

Do I still need to give hay if I feed this grain mix?
Yes. Goats are browsers and need long-stem fiber for healthy rumen function. Grain is a supplement, not a replacement for hay or pasture. Provide free-choice grass hay or browse daily.

Can I feed this to baby kids?
Not as their main diet. Kids under 8 weeks should have milk or milk replacer. After that, you can introduce a small amount of this mix (no more than a handful per kid per day) alongside free-choice hay, but a higher-protein 18% kid ration is better for growth.

What if I cannot find soybean meal?
You can substitute roasted whole soybeans (not raw, which contain anti-nutritional factors), sunflower meal, or field peas. Use the same weight, but note that sunflower meal is lower in protein, so you may need to add a bit more.

Is it cheaper than buying commercial feed?
Usually, yes, if you buy grains in bulk from a feed mill or co-op. However, if you have only one or two goats, the cost of ingredients and storage may not be worth it. Compare prices per 100 lb (45 kg) before committing.

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