Mill scale yakitori grills are heavy steel plates cut from the rough outer layer of hot-rolled steel, a byproduct of steel mills. They are prized by yakitori chefs for their ability to get screaming hot, hold that heat, and give chicken a deep char and smoky flavor that a home grill can’t replicate. Cooking on mill scale is simple once you understand its quirks—mainly, it needs a long preheat and careful oiling to keep food from sticking.
Ingredients
- 1 lb (450 g) boneless, skin-on chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
- 1 lb (450 g) chicken wings, split at the joint (optional)
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) soy sauce
- 1/4 cup (60 ml) mirin
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) sake
- 2 tbsp (25 g) brown sugar
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tbsp (15 ml) vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the grill
- 8–10 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Optional: 1 scallion, sliced, for garnish
Instructions
- Make the tare sauce: In a small saucepan, combine soy sauce, mirin, sake, brown sugar, and garlic. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce heat to low and cook for 5 minutes until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and set aside.
- Prepare the grill: Place the mill scale plate on a charcoal or gas grill. If using charcoal, light a full chimney of briquettes and wait until they are covered in gray ash. Spread the coals evenly under the plate. If using gas, preheat the grill on high with the plate on the grate. Close the lid and let the plate heat for at least 15–20 minutes. It should be smoking hot—a drop of water should sizzle and evaporate instantly.
- While the plate heats, season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Thread them onto the soaked skewers, leaving a small gap between pieces. For wings, you can skewer them or place them directly on the plate.
- Once the plate is hot, use tongs to rub a paper towel dipped in vegetable oil over the surface. This creates a non-stick layer and helps the char.
- Place the skewers on the plate. Cook for 3–4 minutes without moving, until the chicken releases easily and has nice grill marks. Flip and cook for another 3–4 minutes. For wings, cook 5–6 minutes per side.
- Check the internal temperature: insert a food thermometer into the thickest piece of chicken. It must read 165°F (74°C) for poultry, which is the USDA FSIS safe minimum. If not done, continue cooking, flipping occasionally.
- Brush the tare sauce onto the chicken during the last 2 minutes of cooking, turning to coat. Be careful—sugar burns quickly. Remove from the grill and let rest for 2 minutes.
- Serve hot, garnished with scallions if desired, with extra tare sauce on the side.
Tips
- Preheat is non-negotiable. A mill scale plate needs at least 15–20 minutes to get fully hot. If you start too early, the chicken will stick and steam instead of char.
- Season the plate, not the food. Oiling the hot plate before cooking is essential. Use a high-smoke-point oil like vegetable or canola; olive oil will burn.
- Don’t skip soaking the skewers. Bamboo skewers burn on a hot grill. Soak them for at least 30 minutes, and use two skewers per skewer if the pieces are large.
- Substitute for mill scale: If you don’t have a mill scale plate, use a cast-iron griddle or a heavy steel plate from a hardware store (make sure it’s food-safe and clean). The cooking time will be similar.
Serving Suggestions
Serve the yakitori with steamed rice and a simple cucumber salad dressed with rice vinegar and sesame oil. For a full izakaya-style meal, add a bowl of miso soup and pickled vegetables. The tare sauce is also great drizzled over rice or used as a dip for grilled vegetables.
Variations
- Vegetable Yakitori: Thread bell peppers, shiitake mushrooms, and scallions onto skewers. Brush with oil and grill for 4–5 minutes per side, then glaze with tare.
- Spicy Miso Glaze: Replace the tare with a mix of 3 tbsp miso, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp mirin, and 1 tsp chili paste. Apply during the last 2 minutes.
- Chicken Meatballs (Tsukune): Mix ground chicken with grated ginger, scallion, and a pinch of salt. Form into small patties and grill until cooked through (160°F/71°C), then brush with tare.
Storage and Reheating
Leftover yakitori can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. To reheat, place on a baking sheet and warm in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 8–10 minutes, or until heated through to 165°F (74°C). You can also reheat in a skillet over medium heat for 3–4 minutes per side. Avoid microwaving, as it makes the chicken rubbery. The tare sauce keeps in the fridge for up to 1 week in a sealed jar.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is mill scale? Mill scale is the flaky oxide layer that forms on the surface of hot-rolled steel during manufacturing. It’s a byproduct, but heavy steel plates cut from it are sometimes sold as griddle tops. They are not the same as food-grade stainless steel, so you must season them like cast iron and avoid rust.
Is it safe to cook on mill scale? Yes, if it’s clean and seasoned. Wash the plate with hot soapy water, dry it thoroughly, then coat with a thin layer of oil and heat until smoking. Repeat the oiling process a few times to build a non-stick surface. Avoid using any plate that has visible rust or heavy pitting.
Why is my chicken sticking to the plate? The plate isn’t hot enough, or you didn’t oil it properly. Make sure the plate is smoking hot, then wipe it with an oiled paper towel. Also, don’t try to flip the chicken too early—if it’s not releasing, it needs more time.
Can I use a mill scale plate on a gas grill? Yes, absolutely. Place the plate on the grill grate over direct high heat. Preheat with the lid closed for 15–20 minutes. The plate will get just as hot as on charcoal.
How do I clean and store the plate? After cooking, scrape off any food residue with a spatula while the plate is still warm. Wipe with paper towels. Once cool, wash with water and a stiff brush (no soap), dry thoroughly, and rub with a thin layer of oil to prevent rust. Store in a dry place.
Do I need to use skewers? No, you can cook the chicken pieces directly on the plate. Skewers make flipping easier and give that classic yakitori look, but they are not essential.
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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