Stick Making Books: A Complete Guide

Stick making books are comprehensive guides that teach you how to craft walking sticks, hiking staffs, and decorative canes from natural wood. They cover everything from selecting and seasoning wood to carving, shaping, and finishing, making them invaluable for both beginners and experienced woodworkers. This article provides a recipe-style overview of what you’ll find in these books, so you can understand the craft and get started on your own projects.

Ingredients

1 stick making book (e.g., The Complete Book of Woodworking or Sticks and Canes: A Guide to Making Them)
1 suitable wood blank (e.g., hazel, ash, oak, or blackthorn), 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in diameter and 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8 m) long
Sharp knife or drawknife for shaping
Rasp and/or coarse sandpaper (grit 60-80) for smoothing
Fine sandpaper (grit 120-220) for finishing
Wood sealer or primer (optional)
Wood stain or paint (optional)
Clear varnish, polyurethane, or linseed oil for protection
Rubber ferrule or metal tip (to prevent slipping)
Leather or rubber grip (optional)
Safety goggles and dust mask
Workbench or sturdy table

Instructions

Read the book’s introduction and safety section. Familiarize yourself with the tools and techniques described, and always wear safety goggles and a dust mask when cutting or sanding wood.
Select your wood. Look for a straight, knot-free branch or sapling. If you’re harvesting fresh wood, allow it to season (dry) for 6-12 months in a dry, ventilated area, or use kiln-dried wood from a supplier. The book will likely have a chapter on wood selection—refer to it for specific recommendations.
Cut the stick to length. Stand the stick upright and measure from the floor to your wrist with your arm hanging naturally at your side. This is the ideal height for a walking stick. Cut off any excess with a saw.
Remove the bark. Using a drawknife or a sharp knife, carefully peel the bark away from the wood. Work in the direction away from your body to avoid injury. Some books recommend leaving a section of bark at the top for a natural grip—this is a personal choice.
Shape the stick. Use a rasp or coarse sandpaper to round off any sharp edges and create a smooth, even taper from top to bottom. If you want a decorative top, carve it according to the book’s instructions—common shapes include a ball, a crook, or a simple knob.
Smooth the surface. Progressively sand the stick with finer grits (80, then 120, then 220) until the surface feels silky smooth. Always sand in the direction of the grain.
Apply a finish. Wipe the stick with a tack cloth to remove dust. Apply a coat of wood stain or paint if desired, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Then apply a clear protective finish—either varnish, polyurethane, or boiled linseed oil. Let it dry completely, then apply a second coat.
Attach the tip. Glue a rubber ferrule to the bottom of the stick to protect the wood and provide traction. If you prefer a metal tip, tap it on gently with a hammer.
Add a grip (optional). If you didn’t leave a natural bark grip, you can wrap leather or rubber around the top. Secure it with adhesive or small tacks.
Inspect your work. Check for any rough spots or loose parts. Make sure the stick is sturdy and comfortable to hold.

Tips

Substitutions: If you can’t find traditional woods like hazel or blackthorn, use any straight-grained hardwood such as maple, birch, or cherry. Softwoods like pine are easier to carve but less durable.
Storage: Store your finished stick in a dry place, away from direct heat or sunlight, to prevent warping or cracking. If the finish ever looks dull, reapply a thin coat of oil.
Common mistakes: One of the most common errors is cutting the stick too short—always measure twice before cutting. Another is failing to season fresh wood, which leads to cracking. Finally, avoid sanding across the grain, as this leaves visible scratches.
Safety first: Always cut away from your body, and use a clamp or vise to hold the wood steady when working on it. Never use a knife that is dull—it requires more force and is more likely to slip.

Serving Suggestions

Once your stick is complete, it’s ready to serve as a reliable companion on hikes, a stylish accessory for a formal outing, or a supportive aid for daily walks. Pair it with a sturdy pair of boots and a sense of adventure. You can also give it as a thoughtful, handmade gift.

Variations

Decorative carving: Instead of a simple knob, carve intricate patterns, animals, or Celtic knots into the top. The book will provide step-by-step carving patterns.
Wood burning: Use a wood-burning tool to add personalized designs or text to the shaft before finishing.
Natural bark finish: Leave the bark on the entire stick and just sand the ends smooth. This gives a rustic, outdoorsy look.
Thumbstick: Create a stick with a natural fork at the top, which provides a comfortable grip for your thumb—a traditional shepherd’s design.

Storage and Reheating

Store your finished stick in a dry, climate-controlled room. Avoid leaning it against a heat source, as this can dry out the wood and cause cracking. To maintain the finish, wipe it with a damp cloth and reapply a coat of linseed oil every 6-12 months. If the stick gets wet, dry it thoroughly at room temperature—do not place it near a fire. With proper care, a wooden stick can last for decades.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long does it take to make a stick?
A: For a beginner, expect to spend 2-4 hours on shaping, sanding, and finishing. If you’re harvesting your own wood, add 6-12 months for seasoning.

Q: What is the best wood for a walking stick?
A: Hazel, ash, and oak are traditional favorites because they are strong, straight, and readily available. Blackthorn is prized for its dense, knobbly character but is harder to work.

Q: Do I need special tools?
A: No, you can start with a sharp knife, a rasp, and sandpaper. As you advance, you might invest in a drawknife, spoke shave, or lathe, but they aren’t essential.

Q: Can I use green (freshly cut) wood?
A: You can, but it will shrink and crack as it dries. It’s best to season it for at least 6 months in a dry, airy place. Some books describe accelerated drying using a kiln or microwave, but this takes practice.

Q: How do I make a curved handle?
A: To create a crook or curved handle, you need to steam the wood to make it pliable. The book will have a section on steam bending—it involves suspending the stick over boiling water, then bending it into a form and letting it dry.

Q: What finish is best?
A: Boiled linseed oil is traditional and easy to apply, but it takes time to cure. Varnish or polyurethane provide a harder, more durable finish. For a natural look, use a paste wax. Always apply in a well-ventilated area.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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