Pupusas are thick, griddled corn cakes from El Salvador, filled here with seasoned pork, refried beans, and cheese, then served with tangy cabbage curtido. The fillings and curtido vary by region and family, but soft masa, a well-sealed center, and a hot griddle make this version satisfying and practical to cook at home.
Ingredients
- 5 cups (350 g) finely shredded green cabbage
- 1 medium carrot, peeled and grated, about ½ cup (60 g)
- ¼ small white onion, thinly sliced, about ¼ cup (40 g)
- ½ cup (120 ml) white vinegar
- ½ cup (120 ml) warm water
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano (1 g)
- ¾ teaspoon fine salt (4 g), divided
- Optional: ½ jalapeño, thinly sliced, about 15 g, for a little heat
- 10 ounces (285 g) ground pork
- 1 teaspoon neutral cooking oil (5 ml)
- ¼ medium white onion, finely chopped, about 40 g
- 1 medium ripe tomato, finely chopped, about 120 g
- 1 garlic clove, minced, about 3 g
- ¼ teaspoon ground cumin (0.5 g)
- ½ cup (120 g) refried beans
- 1 cup (110 g) shredded quesillo, Oaxaca cheese, or low-moisture mozzarella
- 4 cups (480 g) masa harina for tortillas, not cornmeal
- 1 teaspoon fine salt (5 g)
- 3 cups (710 ml) warm water, plus up to ¼ cup (60 ml) more as needed
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral cooking oil, for lightly oiling hands and the griddle as needed
Instructions
- Make the curtido. Put the cabbage, carrot, sliced onion, and optional jalapeño in a large bowl. Stir the vinegar, warm water, oregano, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt together, then pour the mixture over the vegetables. Toss and press the cabbage down so it is evenly coated. Let it stand for at least 30 minutes while you prepare the pupusas, tossing once or twice. It should soften slightly but retain some crunch. Taste before serving and add a pinch of the remaining salt if needed.
- Cook the pork filling. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring, until it begins to soften. Add the ground pork, tomato, garlic, cumin, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Break up the pork and cook, stirring often, until no pink remains and a food thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the mixture registers 160°F (71°C), the USDA FSIS safe minimum internal temperature for ground pork. This usually takes about 8–10 minutes, depending on the pan. If the tomato releases a lot of liquid, cook another minute or two until the filling is moist but not runny. Let it cool for a few minutes, then finely chop it or pulse it briefly in a food processor; a cohesive, finely textured filling is easier to seal inside the dough.
- Mix and rest the masa. In a large bowl, whisk together the masa harina and 1 teaspoon salt. Pour in 3 cups warm water and mix by hand until a soft dough forms. Knead for about 2 minutes. It should feel like soft modeling clay: moist and pliable, but not sticky. If it cracks when pressed, add the extra water 1 tablespoon at a time; if it sticks heavily to your hands, work in masa harina a tablespoon at a time. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let the dough rest for 10 minutes so the flour can fully hydrate.
- Divide and fill. Keep the dough covered when you are not handling it. Divide it into 12 equal portions and roll each into a smooth ball, roughly 2½ inches (6 cm) across. Lightly oil your palms. Flatten one ball into a disk about 4 inches (10 cm) wide, keeping the center a little thicker than the edge. Add about 1 tablespoon of pork, 1 teaspoon of refried beans, and 1 tablespoon of shredded cheese to the center. Bring the edges up around the filling and pinch them closed. Gently pat the ball between your palms into a disk about ½ inch (1.3 cm) thick. If a little filling shows through, patch the spot with a small piece of dough and smooth it over. Repeat with the rest of the dough and filling.
- Griddle the pupusas. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or flat griddle over medium heat while shaping the pupusas. Lightly oil the surface if it is not well seasoned. Cook the pupusas in batches without crowding, about 2–3 minutes per side, until they have golden patches and feel firm at the edges. Adjust the heat if they brown before the dough cooks through. Move finished pupusas to a plate and loosely cover with a clean towel while you cook the rest. Serve hot with curtido on the side.
Tips
- Choose the right corn flour. Masa harina is nixtamalized corn flour made for tortillas and pupusas; regular cornmeal, polenta, and plain corn flour do not hydrate or hold together the same way. If masa harina is unavailable, look for it in a Latin American grocery store or the international aisle. It is worth finding because a direct substitute is unlikely to produce the same texture.
- Keep the dough covered and supple. Masa dries quickly in open air, which leads to cracks when you flatten or seal it. Work with one portion at a time and keep the remaining dough under a damp towel. If the dough starts to feel dry, knead in a teaspoon of water; if it is sticky, use a light film of oil on your hands rather than adding a lot of extra flour.
- Use a cheese that melts without making the filling watery. Salvadoran quesillo can be difficult to find outside Salvadoran markets. Oaxaca cheese is a good substitute with a similar melting quality; low-moisture mozzarella also works, though it is milder and less stretchy. Avoid fresh mozzarella unless it is well drained, because excess moisture can make the filling leak.
- Seal gently, not tightly packed. Too much filling makes the dough difficult to close and can cause it to burst on the griddle. If a pupusa leaks, lower the heat slightly and patch it with dough before cooking. A small amount of filling escaping is manageable, but wipe burnt bits from the pan between batches.
Serving Suggestions
Serve pupusas as soon as they come off the griddle, with a generous spoonful of curtido on top or alongside for a crisp, sour contrast to the warm corn dough and savory filling. A simple tomato salsa is also common at the table; set it out in a small bowl so each person can add as much as they like. For a filling meal, pair the pupusas with a mild bean soup or a green salad, but keep the accompaniments light so the griddled cakes remain the focus.
For a casual meal, plan on two pupusas per person, with extra curtido available for anyone who wants more. They are also easy to serve family-style: stack the cooked cakes on a platter, keep them loosely covered so they stay warm, and pass the curtido and salsa separately. If serving children or guests who prefer mild food, leave the jalapeño out of the curtido and offer hot sauce at the table.
Variations
These are revueltas, meaning the filling combines pork, beans, and cheese. For a simpler cheese pupusa, leave out the pork and beans and use about 2 tablespoons of cheese per cake. For a bean-and-cheese version, increase the beans to roughly 1 tablespoon per pupusa and use a little less cheese. Refried red or black beans both work; black beans give the filling a slightly earthier flavor.
Some Salvadoran cooks make pork filling from cooked pork meat or chicharrón rather than browning ground pork from scratch. Finely chop or pulse cooked, skinless pork until it has a spreadable texture, then season it with tomato and aromatics if needed. The texture will vary depending on the cut and preparation. Curtido is also flexible: omit the jalapeño for a mild slaw, or add a little more vinegar for a sharper, more pickled taste. The quick version here is ready to eat after a short rest, while longer-rested curtido becomes more tangy and tender.
Storage and Reheating
Refrigerate cooked pupusas and curtido within 2 hours. Store them separately in covered containers; cooked pupusas keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator, and the curtido is best within about 4 days. The cabbage will soften as it sits, but it should remain pleasantly tangy. Keep the cooked pork filling refrigerated as well if you prepare it ahead, and use it within 3–4 days.
Reheat pupusas in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat, turning until hot throughout. For leftovers, the USDA FSIS guidance is to reheat to 165°F (74°C); check the center with a food thermometer, especially if the pupusas are thick or have been chilled. A microwave can warm them quickly, but the exterior will be softer, so finish them briefly in a skillet if you want to restore some browning. Cooked pupusas can also be frozen in a single layer, then packed in a freezer-safe container for up to 2 months for best quality. Reheat from frozen in a covered skillet over low heat, turning as needed, until the center reaches 165°F (74°C).
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make the filling or curtido ahead?
Yes. Make the curtido several hours or a day ahead and refrigerate it covered; its flavor will become more pronounced as it rests. The pork filling can also be cooked up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Let cold filling lose its chill briefly while you prepare the dough, but do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.
Why are my pupusas cracking?
Cracks usually mean the masa is too dry, the edges were pressed too thin, or the filling was difficult to seal. Knead in a little water if the dough cracks as you flatten it, keep unused portions covered, and leave a thicker rim around the center. Patch small holes before the pupusas go onto the griddle.
Can I use instant masa dough instead of masa harina?
Use masa harina labeled for tortillas, mixed with water as directed in this recipe. Do not use prepared wet masa in the same quantities because its moisture and density vary. If you have fresh masa, add water gradually until it is soft and pliable, then season it with salt; the exact amount of water will depend on how wet the masa is.
Do I need a special pupusa griddle?
No. A flat cast-iron skillet, griddle, or heavy nonstick skillet works. Cook over medium heat so the outside develops golden spots while the masa cooks through. A crowded pan cools down and can make the pupusas pale or uneven, so cook in batches if necessary.
Can I make these without pork?
Yes. Omit the pork and make cheese pupusas, or combine refried beans and cheese for a meat-free filling. Check that the beans and cheese suit your guests’ dietary needs, and keep the filling thick rather than runny so the cakes remain easy to seal.
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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes
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