Bacalhau Recipes from Portugal: Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás is a much-loved Portuguese dish of salted cod, thin fried potatoes, soft onion, and eggs, finished with parsley and olives. It turns a few pantry ingredients into a savory, satisfying skillet meal, and the recipe below includes the essential desalting step for salt cod.

Ingredients

1 lb (450 g) dried salted cod, skin and bones removed after soaking
12 cups (2.8 L) cold water for soaking, plus 6 cups (1.4 L) for poaching
1 bay leaf
1½ lb (680 g) russet or Yukon Gold potatoes
½ cup (120 ml) olive oil, divided
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced, about 10 oz (300 g)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 large eggs, about 10½ oz (300 g) without shells
¼ tsp (1 g) ground black pepper
¼ cup (15 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
⅓ cup (45 g) pitted black olives, whole or sliced
Up to ⅛ tsp (0.75 g) fine salt, only if needed after tasting

Instructions

Desalt the cod. Rinse the cod briefly under cold running water, then place it in a large nonreactive bowl and cover it with the 12 cups (2.8 L) cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, replacing the water every 6 to 8 hours. Keep the fish submerged; add more cold water if necessary. Thick pieces may need as long as 36 hours. Desalting time depends on the thickness of the fish and the curing, so if you are unsure, simmer a small flake in fresh water and taste it before proceeding. If it is still very salty, refrigerate the cod in fresh water for several more hours.
Prepare the ingredients. Drain and rinse the desalted cod. Peel the potatoes and cut them into very thin matchsticks, about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water to remove excess surface starch, then drain and dry them thoroughly with a clean towel; wet potatoes can splatter in hot oil. Thinly slice the onions, chop the garlic and parsley, and beat the eggs with the black pepper in a bowl.
Gently poach and flake the cod. Put the cod in a saucepan with 6 cups (1.4 L) fresh water and the bay leaf. Bring the water just to a gentle simmer, then cook the fish for about 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. Check the thickest part with a food thermometer: USDA FSIS recommends that fish reach a safe minimum internal temperature of 145°F (63°C). Lift the cod onto a plate and let it cool for about 5 minutes. Remove any skin and bones, then break the flesh into bite-size flakes. Discard the poaching water and bay leaf.
Fry the potatoes. Heat about ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook the potatoes in batches for about 4 to 6 minutes per batch, turning occasionally, until tender and lightly golden at the edges. They do not need to be deeply browned or crisp throughout. Transfer each batch to a paper-towel-lined plate. If the pan looks dry before the last batch, add a little of the remaining oil. Keep the potatoes in a loose layer rather than piling them together so steam does not soften them.
Soften the onion and garlic. Carefully pour off most of the oil, leaving about 2 tablespoons in the skillet. Add the onions and cook over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent but not browned. Stir in the garlic for the last 30 seconds. If the onions start to stick, lower the heat and add a spoonful of water rather than letting the garlic scorch.
Combine the cod and potatoes. Add the flaked cod to the onion mixture and fold gently for about 1 minute to warm it through. Add the fried potatoes and fold again, taking care not to mash the pieces. Pour in the beaten eggs and cook over low heat, stirring and turning the mixture gently for about 3 minutes, until the eggs are fully set. For food safety, check the center with a thermometer; USDA FSIS advises that egg dishes reach 160°F (71°C). The mixture should be moist but not runny.
Finish and serve. Taste a bite before adding salt, since the cod can retain some salt even after soaking. Add up to ⅛ teaspoon if needed, then fold in most of the parsley. Scatter the olives and remaining parsley over the top and bring the skillet to the table while warm.

Tips

Desalt in the refrigerator. Salt cod should stay cold while it soaks, and the soaking water needs regular changes. A shallow container makes it easier to keep the pieces covered and to change the water without breaking the fish.
Dry potatoes well. After rinsing, remove as much water as you can before frying. This helps limit splattering and gives the potatoes a better texture. Use a wide skillet and fry in batches; crowded potatoes tend to steam.
Keep the heat gentle at the end. High heat can make the eggs tough and cause the cod to break into tiny shreds. Low heat and a wide spatula help the ingredients stay distinct while the eggs set.
Choose a practical cod substitute if needed. If salted cod is unavailable, use 1 lb (450 g) fresh cod, cooked separately and seasoned lightly. It will be less savory and salty than the traditional cured fish, so season the finished dish to taste rather than adding salt automatically. Do not soak fresh cod.

Serving Suggestions

Serve bacalhau à Brás warm as a main course, with a simple green salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar to balance the richness of the eggs and potatoes. Sliced tomatoes, lightly dressed greens, or steamed green beans also make good accompaniments. Crusty bread is useful for scooping up any tender bits left in the skillet, though the dish is already substantial.

Set out extra parsley and olives at the table so diners can add more if they like. Because salt cod varies in saltiness, avoid pairing the meal with heavily salted sides. For a family-style meal, bring the skillet to the table soon after the eggs finish cooking; the potatoes are at their best before the mixture sits and steams for too long.

Variations

Bacalhau à Brás is one of many Portuguese preparations for bacalhau, or salted cod, and recipes vary by cook and region. This version uses thin fried potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, and black olives. For a shortcut, use 12 oz (340 g) frozen shoestring potatoes cooked according to their package directions, then fold them in just before the eggs. They save preparation time but usually make the dish crispier and less tender than freshly cut potatoes.

For a milder flavor, replace some of the onion with 1 small leek, about 4 oz (115 g), thinly sliced and softened with the onion. You can also use green olives in place of black olives; they bring a sharper, brinier taste. If you prefer more herbs, add 1 tablespoon (4 g) chopped chives along with the parsley. These are useful adaptations, but keep the cod, potatoes, and eggs as the foundation for the familiar dish.

For a less oily result, bake the potato matchsticks on a parchment-lined tray at 425°F (220°C) for about 20 to 25 minutes, turning once, until tender and lightly browned. Toss them with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the measured olive oil first. The texture will be drier and more like roasted potatoes than the traditional fried version, but the skillet assembly remains the same.

Storage and Reheating

Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking in a shallow, airtight container. They keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. The potatoes soften as they sit, so the stored dish will not have quite the same texture as a freshly made skillet. For best results, portion leftovers before chilling rather than leaving the whole pan out to cool.

Reheat a portion in a covered skillet over low heat with a teaspoon or two of water, stirring gently until steaming hot throughout. You can also use a microwave, stirring once during heating to warm it evenly. Reheat leftovers to 165°F (74°C), checking the center with a food thermometer. Avoid repeatedly cooling and reheating the same portion. Freezing is possible for up to 2 months, but the eggs and potatoes can become softer and release moisture after thawing; thaw overnight in the refrigerator and reheat to 165°F (74°C).

Frequently Asked Questions

What is bacalhau?
Bacalhau is the Portuguese name for salted, dried cod, an ingredient used in many Portuguese dishes. It is sold in pieces or flakes and needs to be soaked in several changes of cold water before cooking. The amount of soaking depends on how thick and salty the piece is.

Can I make bacalhau à Brás with fresh cod?
Yes. Cook fresh cod until it reaches 145°F (63°C), flake it, and use it in place of the desalted fish. Since it lacks the concentrated saltiness of cured cod, season the assembled dish carefully after tasting. The result is a milder variation rather than the classic salt-cod flavor.

How can I tell when the cod has soaked long enough?
There is no single soak time for every piece. After 24 hours with regular water changes, cook a small flake in fresh water and taste it. If it is unpleasantly salty, give the cod more time in fresh water in the refrigerator. This small check is more reliable than adding salt to the finished recipe by guesswork.

Can I prepare any of the recipe ahead?
Yes. Desalt the cod up to the point of cooking, keeping it covered in the refrigerator, and cut the potatoes shortly before frying so they do not discolor. You can slice the onions and chop the herbs a few hours in advance and refrigerate them separately. The final egg-and-potato mixture is best cooked just before serving.

Why did my potatoes turn soft?
They may have been wet after rinsing, cut too thick, or cooked in an overcrowded pan. Dry matchsticks thoroughly, fry them in batches, and let excess oil drain on paper towels. Once the potatoes are mixed with eggs, they will soften somewhat; serve promptly for the best contrast in texture.

Is bacalhau à Brás supposed to be salty?
It should taste savory, but it should not be overpoweringly salty. Salt cod is the main source of salt, and different pieces need different soaking times. Do not salt the potatoes or eggs in advance; taste the completed mixture first and add only a small amount if it needs it.

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Safety notes: safe minimum internal temperatures from USDA FSIS; raw and undercooked fish guidance from the U.S. FDA. Food safety notes

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