Brioche stitch is a knitting technique that creates a plush, ribbed fabric with a beautiful honeycomb texture on both sides. It looks intricate, but the most common version, brioche rib, is worked in a simple two-row repeat once you learn the two basic maneuvers: the yarnover slip (yo-sl) and knitting or purling two stitches together (brk or brp). This tutorial walks you through the stitch step by step, with clear instructions for both flat and circular knitting, so you can confidently add this squishy, reversible fabric to your next scarf, cowl, or hat.
Ingredients
- Worsted-weight yarn, about 20–30 yards (18–27 m) for a 4×4 in (10×10 cm) swatch
- Knitting needles in a size appropriate for your yarn (e.g., US 7 / 4.5 mm for worsted) – straight or circular, as you prefer
- Stitch marker (if knitting in the round)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends (optional for swatch)
Instructions
- Cast on an even number of stitches. For a swatch, cast on 20 stitches using any stretchy cast-on, such as the long-tail method. If you are knitting flat, you will also need 1 extra stitch for the edge (so 21 stitches for a 20-stitch pattern repeat). For knitting in the round, just cast on an even number (e.g., 20) and join, placing a marker at the beginning of the round.
- Set-up row (flat knitting): Knit 1 (edge stitch), then repeat the following across the row: *yarn over (yo), slip 1 stitch purlwise (sl1), knit 1 (k1)*. End with yo, sl1, then knit the last edge stitch. Turn.
- Row 1 (flat): Knit 1 (edge), then repeat: *yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, then knit the next two stitches together (the slipped stitch and its yarnover from the previous row) as one – this is called "brioche knit" (brk)*. End with yo, sl1, then knit the last edge stitch. Turn.
- Row 2 (flat): Knit 1 (edge), then repeat: *yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, then purl the next two stitches together (the slipped stitch and its yarnover) – this is called "brioche purl" (brp)*. End with yo, sl1, then knit the last edge stitch. Turn.
- Repeat rows 1 and 2 until your swatch measures about 4 inches (10 cm) from the cast-on edge. Remember that the fabric is very stretchy, so don’t pull it tight.
- Bind off loosely. Use a stretchy bind-off method, such as the knit-two-together bind-off or the yarnover bind-off, to keep the edge from pulling in. For a simple stretchy bind-off: knit 2 stitches, then pass the first stitch over the second, knit 1, pass the previous over, and so on, but knit each stitch through the back loop to add stretch.
- For circular knitting (e.g., a cowl or hat): After joining, work the set-up round as: *yo, sl1, k1* around. Then repeat Round 1: *yo, sl1, brk* around. That’s the entire pattern – you never purl in the round, because the right side is always facing you. Work until your piece is the desired length, then bind off loosely.
- Weave in ends with a tapestry needle, and block your swatch gently (wet block or steam block) to even out the stitches.
Tips
- Keep your tension even: Brioche stitch is very forgiving, but if you pull the yarnovers too tight, the fabric will lose its squishiness. Try to keep the yarnovers loose and even.
- Use a lifeline: If you are new to brioche, insert a lifeline (a piece of waste yarn) every few rows so that if you make a mistake, you can rip back to the lifeline without losing all your work.
- Count your stitches carefully: The yarnovers and decreases (brk/brp) keep the stitch count constant, but it’s easy to accidentally drop a yarnover or knit a single stitch instead of two together. If you find your stitch count changing, check your last row.
- Choosing yarn: Smooth, woolly yarns show the stitch definition best. Avoid very fluffy or novelty yarns, which can hide the texture and make it hard to see your stitches.
Serving Suggestions
Brioche stitch is perfect for cozy accessories that need to be warm and stretchy. Use it to knit a squishy scarf, a snug cowl, a slouchy hat, or even a soft baby blanket. Because the fabric is reversible, it’s great for items where both sides will be seen, like a shawl or a wrap. The stitch also works beautifully for sweater cuffs and collars, adding a plush, elastic finish.
Variations
- Two-color brioche: Work the stitch with two colors, one for each row, to create a striking striped effect on the front and a contrasting color on the back. This is done by using a separate ball of yarn for each row (or round) and slipping stitches with the yarn in front/back accordingly.
- Brioche in the round with a purl side: If you want a fabric that looks like brioche rib on the outside but has a smoother inside, you can alternate knit and purl rounds, but the classic method above is the simplest for beginners.
- Brioche lace: Once you master the basic stitch, you can incorporate yarnover decreases (like ssk or k2tog) to create lacy patterns within the brioche fabric, such as in the popular "Honeycomb" or "Full Brioche" patterns.
- Different yarn weights: Brioche works with any yarn weight, from lace to bulky. Just adjust your needle size accordingly – a larger needle will give a more open, airy fabric, while a smaller needle will make it denser and warmer.
Storage and Reheating
If you need to pause your knitting, simply slide the stitches off the needle onto a spare needle or a stitch holder, and store the work in a ziplock bag or a knitting project bag to keep it clean. When you resume, just slip the stitches back onto your needle. For finished items, store them folded in a drawer or on a shelf – avoid hanging knits, as the weight can stretch them. To refresh a brioche item, gently hand wash in cool water with a mild wool wash, then lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist. If you need to block, pin it to measurements and let it air dry. Avoid machine washing or drying, as the heat and agitation can felt the wool and ruin the stitch definition.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my brioche look like a mess of yarnovers? This usually happens if you are not slipping the yarnover and the next stitch together correctly. Remember that the yarnover and the slipped stitch are treated as one unit – when you knit or purl them together, you are actually working the yarnover and the stitch from the previous row as a pair. Make sure you are inserting the needle into both loops.
Can I knit brioche flat with an even number of stitches? Yes, but you will need to add one extra stitch for the edge, as described in the instructions. This edge stitch is not part of the pattern repeat; it just makes the edges neat. If you forget it, you will end up with an extra stitch that disrupts the pattern.
How do I fix a dropped stitch in brioche? Dropped stitches in brioche can be tricky because of the yarnovers. The best approach is to use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch, but you must also account for the yarnover that belongs to it. It’s often easier to rip back to a lifeline and re-knit that section, especially if you are a beginner.
Is brioche stitch the same as fisherman’s rib? They look very similar, but they are worked differently. Fisherman’s rib is knit by knitting into the stitch below, while brioche uses yarnovers and slipped stitches. The resulting fabric is similar in appearance, but brioche is generally more elastic and has a more defined honeycomb texture on the back.
Why is my brioche curling at the edges? Curling is common with any knit fabric, but brioche tends to curl less than stockinette. To minimize curling, add a border of garter stitch or seed stitch on the edges, or block the finished piece flat. For scarves, a simple garter stitch edge of 2-3 stitches on each side will keep it flat.
Can I use brioche for a sweater? Absolutely! Brioche makes a wonderfully warm and stretchy sweater, but keep in mind that it uses more yarn than stockinette and takes longer to knit because of the yarnovers. It also has a lot of drape, so choose a pattern designed for brioche to ensure the right fit.
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